Hey, guys.
Today, we're gonna be taking a look at and installing the Ford Performance halfshaft
assemblies for all 2015 to 2018 Mustangs.
You're gonna wanna be checking these out if you're building your S550 and you're looking
for a set of upgraded halfshafts to handle your new horsepower and torque numbers.
You're also gonna wanna check these out if you drag race your car a lot, if you plan
on doing a lot of hard launches and a lot of burnouts, and especially if you're running
a different tire like a drag radial, a bias-ply, or even a slick.
These are sold as a set of two.
You don't have to purchase them individually.
They cost about $1,700, and the install will be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty
meter.
And of course, we're here today to show you exactly how it's done.
For this install, we used a 3/8-drive impact gun, a 3/8-drive ratchet.
When it comes to sockets, we used a 32-millimeter, an 18-millimeter, a 15-millimeter, 21-millimeter,
10-millimeter, and an 8-millimeter.
We did use an extension, a 15-millimeter open-end wrench, a rubber mallet, and a pry bar.
All right, guys.
To get your install started, you'll pull off your rear wheels, and then you're gonna pop
off the spindle nut, which is right here.
What we're gonna do now is we're actually gonna take the spindle nut that we just removed,
and we're going to thread it back onto our halfshaft.
But you can see that I'm threading it on backwards.
What I'm gonna do here is then, I'm gonna take a rubber mallet, and I'm just going to
knock this a little bit loose.
The whole point of this is to get the splines on the halfshaft to release from the spindle.
So I'm not gonna go crazy with this.
If you guys don't have the service tool, this is gonna be another option.
You don't have to hit it too hard.
You, basically, just want to see it bounce, and it'll bounce out of the splines.
All right, guys.
So you saw how quickly that happened.
It was just a little bounce that I was looking for.
Once again, basically, all we're doing here is we're getting the spline to remove from
the spindle.
The next step is gonna be to pull our caliper.
So I have an 18-millimeter socket here.
We're gonna pull the caliper and the bracket, and then we'll hang it, just so it isn't pulling
on the brake line.
After that, we're gonna pull off the rotor as well.
So I threw a lug nut back on here because our rotor doesn't wanna play nice, and we're
gonna have to knock it loose with the mallet.
All right.
With the rotor knocked loose, we can go ahead and remove our lug nut, and we're gonna pull
the rotor.
All right, guys.
So what I'm doing right now is I'm taking a pole jack, and I am supporting the lower
control arm from the spring perch.
We just wanna take the tension off it a little bit.
We're gonna be unbolting the vertical link next.
To remove the vertical link, we'll pull the 18-millimeter bolt at the bottom and the 15-millimeter
bolt at the top.
Next, we're gonna remove our dust shield here.
It's just kind of a pain to work around sometimes, and these are three 8-millimeter bolts.
All right.
Next, we're gonna remove our wheel speed sensor, which is this right here.
This is an 8-millimeter bolt.
And then, also, our E-brake cable, which will be a 10-millimeter bolt.
There are three sets of bolts that are holding the knuckle in place.
We're gonna go ahead and remove the top, up here.
So what I'm gonna do is, I'm gonna have a 15-millimeter open-ended wrench on the bolt
side and an 18-millimeter socket that's gonna remove the nut for us.
We'll remove this one next.
This is an 18-millimeter.
It does have a welded nut on the back side, so you don't have to worry about that.
Now, we're gonna remove this last bolt here.
This is a 21-millimeter.
Keep in mind that this is the last bolt that's holding the knuckle in place.
So what I'm gonna do is, I'm gonna use my right hand, just hold the knuckle up and on
the end of the halfshaft still while I undo this.
All right.
Now, we can remove the entire knuckle off the end of the halfshaft.
All right.
So our next step is actually to remove the halfshaft.
I have a pry bar here and what I'm gonna do, and we'll show you up close, is I'm gonna
use the pry bar to pop the halfshaft out of place.
So I'm gonna go up here, wedge between the ear that's on the diff right here and the
halfshaft, which is right here, and I'm gonna use my pry bar and just pop this out.
All right, guys.
Now, you can remove your halfshaft.
We're just gonna thread the needle.
So with our factory halfshaft out of place and before we install the Ford Performance
halfshaft, I wanted to take a second and just compare these on the table really quick here.
So the Ford Performance halfshaft is a big upgrade over your factory halfshafts, and
for a lot of reasons.
If we take a peek at the CV joints, they are heavy-duty CV joints with CNC billet centers.
These halfshafts can support up to 1,500 horsepower which, like I said, is a huge upgrade over
your factory halfshafts.
Looking at the stub ends, you have one-piece billet stub ends here.
You have a 34-spline inner stub end and a 32-spline outer stub end.
These halfshafts do have a limited lifetime warranty on them and keep in mind that they
are side-specific.
So when you go to install it, make sure that you have the correct side.
Now, one more thing that you want to double-check before you move on with the install is that
there's a retaining clip on the inner stub end of your factory halfshaft.
You want to make sure that that retaining clip stayed with the halfshaft and it's not
still in the diff before installing your new halfshaft.
You also want to take a peek and make sure that Ford Performance included this retaining
clip on the new halfshaft.
And they did, so we're good to go.
We're gonna go ahead and get this in the car.
All right, guys.
So we're ready to install our halfshaft.
What we're gonna do is we are going to install this the same way that we uninstalled our
factory.
We're gonna get this in place, and we actually wanna feel this snap into place, and that's
when you know that this ring is locked in.
So we're gonna go ahead.
Basically, like I said is you want to feel this clip into place.
And you'll know that it's in place when you go to pull the halfshaft back out, and it
won't move.
Next, we're gonna reinstall the knuckle.
So what we're gonna do is we're gonna slide it over the end of the halfshaft.
All right.
So we are gonna start all of these bolts and get them semi-tight, but we're not gonna torque
down to spec just yet.
You want to do that when the suspension's under load.
So we'll get our wheel speed sensor back into place, as well as the E-brake cable bracket.
All right.
Once again, we're just gonna tighten these down, and we'll torque them down to spec later.
Next, we're gonna reinstall our vertical link.
Just make sure you have it in the correct orientation.
All right.
Now, we're gonna get our backing placed.
After this, we'll get our rotor and then caliper in place as well.
And we can remove the pole jack too.
All right, guys.
So we're gonna get everything tightened down on this side, and then we'll go ahead and
start the other side.
So before we move over to the other side, we can't forget our spindle nut.
All right, guys.
We are gonna do the exact same thing on this side.
We'll remove the spindle nut, remove the caliper, then the rotor, then our wheel speed sensor,
followed by our emergency brake cable, and then go from there.
All right.
Now, we're threading our spindle nut back on backwards.
I have a rag here because these do get hot.
You guys saw how long it took me to get that off.
It's a little warm.
I'm gonna tap it with the mallet just until I see it bounce back a little bit.
Okay.
Now, we'll move on to the caliper.
All right.
So we are switching back to our 18-millimeter socket here.
All right.
So once again, we are going to pin our caliper up because we don't want it resting on our
brake line.
All right.
So if your rotor doesn't want to release, you guys can tap on it with a mallet like
we're doing.
All right.
So we're gonna pull this backing plate just to get it out of our way, so we're back to
the 8-millimeter socket.
All right.
So we're gonna grab the wheel speed sensor, as well as our E-brake cable bracket.
So that's a 10-millimeter.
All right.
Now, we're gonna remove our vertical link, so we need a 15-millimeter here and an 18-millimeter
here.
All right, guys.
Once again, we are going to unbolt our knuckle from the three locations that it's bolted
in place.
So I've got a 15-millimeter open-end here.
I have an 18-millimeter socket on the nut.
All right.
Now, we're gonna undo this lower bolt here, and we're gonna hold the knuckle because this
is the last bolt holding it in place.
All right.
So we're gonna do the same thing with the pry bar, and just pop the axle out of place.
All right.
Now, we'll grab this boy and work it out.
We are going to slide our halfshaft in place.
All right.
So with our halfshaft popped into place, we're gonna get our knuckle back in place.
All right.
Now, we'll do the top bolt here.
All right.
Then, we'll get the nut on here.
All right.
Now, we'll get our toe link back in place, and then we'll go ahead and get these bolts
a little bit tighter.
All right.
Once again, we're just going to get these a little bit firmer in place.
We're not torquing anything down yet.
All right.
So right now, we're getting our E-brake cable bracket and our wheel speed sensor back into
place.
All right.
Now, we'll get the vertical link back in place.
I'll get the top bolted in before I knock in the bottom.
You have a flag nut here, so I'm gonna spin the bolt onto the nut.
All right.
Now, we've got our backing plate going back into place, followed by our rotor, then caliper.
And I am just gonna put two lug nuts on here just to hold the rotor in place while I get
the caliper back on.
All right, guys.
So last but not least is the spindle nut, which we just tightened down.
The only other thing you have to do after this is, obviously, get your wheels back on
the car, and then you wanna torque all of your suspension bolts back down to spec once
the suspension has some load on it.
All right, guys.
That's gonna wrap up this review and install.
Keep in mind that you can always check these out more online right here at americanmuscle.com.
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