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2018 Season of Audi Sales Event: "The Night Before Christmas 2.0" - Duration: 0:31.
VO: 'Twas the night before Christmas, when all thro' the house
Not a creature was stirring, but everywhere else…
There are chefs, bakers and food order takers.
Doctors and surgeons and all the life savers.
The world is alive as you can see,
This time of the year is so much more than a bow and a tree.
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2018 Season of Audi Sales Event: "Nutcracker" - Duration: 0:31.
VO: 'Twas the night before Christmas, when all thro' the house
Not a creature was stirring, but everywhere else…
There are performers, dancers, designers
The dads and the drivers.
There are doers of good and bringers of glee
This time of year is so much more than a bow and a tree.
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How To Service A VW/Audi MQB 02E DSG Transmission - DIY - Duration: 24:08.
hey what's going on everybody Gareth here FC Piero and today we're gonna be
doing a DSG service on her 2017 and Mark 7 GTI of course this vehicle has been
featured in the long haul video series I've had a lot of good and bad
experiences with this car this year one potentially negative experience were
looking to avoid here is potential issues with the DSG transmission of
course the factory recommended service interval is 40,000 miles to basically
avoid fluid contamination however this is seen a couple of track days it's been
driven pretty aggressively so we're gonna do this preventively in a much
shorter interval than we normally see but we're taking along for the ride
we're gonna show you how to do a DSG service so let's get started now if
you're doing this at home can't stress enough if you have to lift the vehicle
which in this case you really do and you want to make sure it's level in order to
do the proper fill procedure make sure the vehicle is properly supported of
course here in the studio have a lift but have done this on the ground before
it is totally possible first thing I have to do is unfortunately the battery
does need to come out at least in this case we're gonna start removing the
battery diaper that's really the only thing that I can call this alright we're
gonna take our 10 millimeter socket we're gonna remove these battery
terminals those out of the way we can slip this battery cover out of the way
now in some of the older vehicles this will be a plastic housing instead our
next step we need to remove the bolt that is holding down the battery tie now
that's gonna be a 13 millimeter alright now we're gonna remove the battery this
battery doesn't have a handle on it so just be careful when you're removing it
don't tilt it too much alright so depending on the vehicle you
may or may not have to remove the air filter housing in this case we have to
only because the air filter housing sits on top of the battery tray so we're
gonna move this next so remove the air filter housing which in this case is an
aftermarket 0 through 4 unit disconnect little vent hose there next we have a 7
millimeter socket to loosen up this clamp
you have this air intake box here that connects to the air filter housing I
have to remove this or pull this entire housing out of the way
tell them with two t25 Torx screws which are located on the front of this cow
once you remove those should be able to pull this out of the way you have these
little grommets right here you have to pull the housing up and out like so you
have a little vent or a dream for the air filter housing and then you have
this vacuum line right here that you can now easily remove put this off to the
side all right protip since we've removed the
air filter housing and basically the inlet of the turbo is completely exposed
we're just gonna take some blue painters tape tape it off and that's just gonna
make sure that if we drop anything while we're working in here it doesn't end up
in a place that we can't access it in the last place you want it to go she's
in the turbos there we go so I went on to worry about that now so next step
we're gonna move the battery tray which is going to give us access to the oil
filter housing on top of the transmission looks like we have three
ten millimeter bolts holding these in it looks like you can also use a t25 if you
wish but I'm gonna use a ten mil then see we get this one in the back you can
it looks like we have a little clip that's holding our positive battery lead
in place just slips into there so we'll make note of that so we put this thing
back together we don't forget that and it looks like they're being sneaky and
they hit a fourth fastener down there so to get to this guy we're gonna use a
wild extension in a ten mil socket shallow should be able to give us the
angle that we need
we're gonna slide the battery tray out of the way now
still have this electrical connector here connected that's okay because we're
just gonna let it sit like this we're not gonna completely remove it from the
vehicle and now we have access to the top of oil filter housing all right so
we have the filter housing exposed you can see the cap right there we're gonna
take a 24 millimeter socket I'm using a soil filter cap socket which is the low
profile 24 mil now I go ahead and spin that off and we'll be able to place the
filter there's gonna be some fluid in the housing so as you're removing it it
may not be a bad idea to have some rags around wanting to be careful removing
this so the spillage is minimal we're already see we're seeping a smidge
there we go yeah we got a little bit of fluid just seeping out but not a big
deal we'll clean that up so now we've removed the oil filter cap we're gonna
go ahead remove the filter there is some oil in that housing still and the
filters displacing some of it so just have a rag handy
don't put this someplace safe where it's not gonna leak everywhere go ahead
install the new filter now you'll notice that this is a little bit different
design this is an older version of the same filter I don't think there's really
much of a difference to discuss on that it's gonna go ahead and just click into
place we're gonna go ahead and replace the oil filter cap all ring just kind of
roll it off it's a round o ring so there's no like orientation you worry
about a slide into place you get a new one which comes with the filter kit
I also recommend using some gear oil and lubricating this o-ring which will just
help install make sure it doesn't bind or get caught as it's writing into place
now we're gonna go ahead and install the filter housing cap we're gonna go ahead
and tighten it down until it bottoms out and then we're gonna go ahead and hit it
with the torque wrench just to make sure the torque spec on this is 25 Newton
meters
we're gonna go ahead and take some brake parts cleaner we're gonna go ahead and
spray off any excess gear oil that has leaked out beautiful now we're gonna go
ahead and reinstall everything back into the driver side of the engine bay so
we're basically done the engine bay at this point we're just gonna go ahead and
put it back together
bingo before reinstalling the air filter housing just make sure your positive
battery positive cable is not tucked down under there
reconnect let's breathe online real quick
and then also that vacuum line that we've disconnected and want to make sure
that that's been plugged back in we're gonna go ahead and tighten down the
clamp that holds the intake tube - in this case the adapter for the turbo
inlet the seven mil now we're gonna be installing the final piece of the air
intake space to just a suction Cal for the air box almost like a cold air
intake space is somewhat limited here but through some slick maneuvering
should be able to get this to line back up just make sure you don't pinch this
hose there we go fortunately the plastic here is pliable enough that you can get
it to move around and slip into place remember to reinstall that t25 screw to
make sure that this is secured in place
and make sure that portion of the upper radiator hose snaps back into place and
now we'll reinstall the battery
let's make sure you don't pinch any of the leads we're gonna put it into its
approximate position of course when we dropped the bracket down there to lock
it in place it'll sort of sell Center itself should be in there we go so now
we're gonna go ahead install the 13 millimeter bolt that holds the battery
tie-down in place using a magnetic tool to guide it in there since space is
somewhat limited and we're just gonna use an extension to reach in there don't
have to go too crazy tight with this you just want to Snug it up and we're there
now we're gonna go ahead and take our battery cover aka the battery diaper
flap goes on this side fantastic we'll put our round back on first we're
going to put a positive battery cable back on second cars alive we're gonna go
ahead and take a 10 mil socket and tighten down these battery clamps
and go ahead and slip the cover over now every part from here we could be doing
underneath the car to raise the vehicle up we're gonna drain the transmission
we're gonna go ahead and refill it and then we'll go from there all right so
the next step we're gonna go ahead and take the old track splash shield that we
have in this vehicle you did see that get installed in a previous video
normally your mark sevens not going to have this trade you can go straight for
the drain plug on the transmission but on this GTI since we have the all tracks
good point a skid pan we're gonna have to go ahead and remove it which is a
bunch of t25 and 13 millimeter fasteners
all right so the next step we're gonna go ahead and drain the transmission you
have a 14 millimeter hex bolt right here drain plug rather not much is gonna come
out after you remove this and I'll show you why as soon as I get it out
you will get some fluid that comes out most likely but you're not gonna get a
ton so next step some more fluid actually came out that I thought there
would there's something in there called a spillover tube you're gonna take an 8
millimeter hex key and you're gonna unthread the Spill tube and the Spill
tube is basically the level indicator for the transmission best way to think
about this this transmission is actually on its side your oil pan is right there
and your drain and fill is here typically on most vehicles you would see
this fill plug located on the side of the transmission and here comes the rest
of the fluid and this is your spillover tube so that's its up inside the
transmission and your level that you want to be at is just over this some
fluid will course spill over and there's a collection area in here but really the
ideal level is to be just over the top of this fluid was also pretty clean but
this vehicle also has less than 20,000 miles on it but the reason like I said
we're doing this earlier is this vehicles been driven pretty hard this
year the number one problem these transmissions is fluid contamination
basically where material in the fluid which if you let it go for long enough
all that wear material build up around the Hall effect sensors which are inside
the transmission and once you have enough metal debris that's built up
around those Hall effect sensors basically the brain of the transmission
doesn't know what to do because it doesn't know where anything is relation
to each other there's about 16 Hall effect sensors in this transmission so
the worst thing you can ever do on one of these is extend the fluid service
interval unnecessarily now that most this fluid is drained out we're gonna
reinstall the spillover tube number one thing on these is do not tighten these
too much there's no reason to go crazy on these if you were to break this off
inside the transmission you're gonna be very sad base we're just gonna thread it
back in I mean literally once it threads in
we're gonna give it the two-finger torque spec that's it don't go any
tighter there's no need to want to bottoms out you're done next step and
this there's a lot of controversy on this now of course you could refill the
transmission from the top to the filter housing speaking from personal
experience we had to do this once this season with one of the TC RS it took two
hours to get five and a half liters of fluid in the transmission it's
unnecessary you could do a gravity fill with the proper tool or you can do a
force fill underneath we're gonna do a force field since we have the tools this
is CTA seven four one six that's a special adapter for the o2 II
transmission it's gonna thread to the bottom where the fill and drain plug
goes now at this point if you have like a bottle pump you can use a bottle pump
but we ain't got time for that so we're gonna use the CTD power filler
basis we're just gonna create a vacuum it's gonna push the fluid up inside the
transmission we're gonna let it do its thing we're gonna go have a coffee break
while it's doing that and we're gonna come back and we're gonna with the rest
of procedure that's how what you do this thing makes it now the nice thing about
this is it has a compression fitting at it so just slip it up over I'm gonna go
ahead and tighten it we're gonna put it in the off position obviously we need to
build some vacuum pressure first just go ahead and start pouring we'll do five
liters of this local moly 8100 dual clutch transmission oil now this gear
oil meets the volkswagen spec it also means BMW spec and a whole slew of other
vehicle manufactures as well now generally speaking they say the fill on
this is five and a half liters however it's in my experience that you usually
only get about four and a half back into these transmissions alright so we've
loaded our power filler up here with five liters in here oil the fill on the
transmission is five and a half liters but you're not gonna empty five and a
half liters you're really only gonna get maybe four four and a half out you can
go ahead and overfill the transmission because when you go through the warmup
procedure and get the gear oil up to temp it's going to expand and then
this is going to come out anyway so don't be afraid to overfill the
transmission initially it's not gonna make a difference so we're gonna go
ahead and build some pressure on this bad boy you can get that pressure gauge
to about halfway where it needs to be
now we're gonna go ahead and open up the valve and it's gonna force the fluid up
into the transmission and we can go ahead and get that commercial break you
can see that we have fluid slowly coming back out after that film we've gone
ahead and actually put just about five liters in the transmission we're gonna
go ahead and disconnect this entire fitting now ready to put the drain plug
the actual drain plug back on with a new crush washer we're gonna go ahead and
lower the car down we're gonna start up there going to show you how to measure
the transmission temperature and everything else and how to make sure to
get this thing at the proper fill level quite a bit of fluid is gonna come out
that's fine that's what we expect like I said initially it's okay to
overfill the transmission any excess is going to flow out but we're gonna warm
up the transmission with it slightly overfilled and then when it's up to
operating temperature we'll go ahead and let it do its final drain so to speak
of course this is messy so you will 100% want to be wearing gloves this stuff
stinks yeah I'm just gonna go ahead and tighten the drain plug on not too tight
we're gonna be taking it off again anyway
this is just gonna be so we can get the transmission up the temperature right
now this thing is dead cold so it's gonna take a minute to get up to temp
all right now we're gonna go ahead and do the fluid level check procedure
basically on this transmission the minimum temperature the transmission
could be at a thirty five degree Celsius the absolute maximum is forty five
degrees Celsius is the transmission is past forty five you have to wait for it
to cool down what we're gonna do is we're going to start it up we're gonna
have the auto tell max to check MX 808 plugged in we're gonna be looking at the
gear oil temperature of the transmission we're gonna shift it from Park reverse
neutral drive run through the manual gears basically let the oil pump pick up
the new fluid distributed through the system and then once you get up to 35
degrees Celsius we're gonna turn the car off I'm gonna put it back up in the air
or take the fill plug off or fill and drain plug the excess it's going to run
out we're gonna put the new crush washer back on and then we're gonna call it a
wrap it's basically the general procedure at least on this transmission
so let's go ahead and wrap this up we go ahead and run the transmission through
his gears so we're gonna go ahead and Park reverse neutral Drive and then
we're gonna run it through its manual years now of course this entire time
we're gonna leave our foot on the brake we're not actually gonna let it spin or
anything and we're pausing at each step and the whole purpose of that procedure
is to allow the pump to fill up all the scylla needs inside the mechatronic unit
and now we just play the waiting game we're basically just waiting for the
transmission to come up to temperature optimal fill is going to be 35 degrees
Celsius but you have up until 45 degrees Celsius anywhere past that you have to
wait for the transmission to cool back down alright so right here we have our
transmission fluid temperature remember I said 35 degrees Celsius is the
beginning fill level you have up until 45 Celsius now as the
engine runs and the transmission fluid temperature increases we're just
monitoring that temperature now of course the transmission was pretty cold
when we started so you know just to get some heat into it we can go ahead and
just give it some RPMs this will heat up the oil a little bit faster you do have
a decent window there so even if you go over 35 that's perfectly fine but you
want to be between 35 and 45 when you do this final level check now of course if
you have a VCDs or a win or any other factory level tool this will do the same
thing and of course you can also get this information with a with a somewhat
decent entry level scanner not just a strict obd2 scanner we need to read
other control module information but you don't need something as fancy as this MX
808 to do this you can have a slightly more basic tool as well all right so
we're at a 35 degree Celsius I'm just going to give it a couple more degrees
I'll let it get to like 37 only cuz I got to turn the car off and throw it
back up in the air so I'm just gonna give it a little bit of wiggle room
there but that's all you're really looking for once you get to 35 that's
gonna be your final fill level really
all right we've gone to 37 Celsius I'm gonna go ahead and turn the car off and
we're gonna raise the back up in the air and we're gonna take the filled slash
drain plug out all right now we're gonna go ahead and take our 14 millimeter
allen socket and we're gonna go ahead and remove the drain fill plug once
again we are gonna have some fluid come out for sure if nothing comes out we'll
go ahead and put some more in but I think a decent amount is going to come
out on us here
so that's all excess fluid that's coming out of the transmission now so we're
gonna go ahead and let that drain as you can see it's slowed down to a trickle
here so we can go ahead and put the film drain plug back on we put a new aluminum
crush washer on just gonna go ahead and get this started by hand all right now
we're gonna go ahead and torque the fill plug drain plug back to 65 Newton meters
all right now we're gonna go ahead and reinstall the Alltrack splash shield
soon a couple bolts in here by hand first to support the weight of this
thing does help if you have a friend unfortunately my friend is behind the
camera right now so and that's how you do a DSC service on an o2 II DSG
transmission as you can see I mean yeah it's a little bit involved in some
aspects particularly getting to the filter on top of the transmission but on
that the filling procedure and basically the level check procedure can the
transmission up the temperature that's really not the difficult part best thing
to do if you're doing this at home especially on jack stands is make sure
that the vehicles as level as possible unfortunately you can't really just do
drive up ramps on this because the transmission won't be level you really
have to make sure the rear is up as well but other than that it's really a very
simple procedure fluid maintenance on the DSG is the biggest thing that you
can do in terms of ensuring that has a long service life like I said earlier
fluid contamination is the biggest problems these transmissions have
especially since you know the vehicles come out of lease they get sold off that
forty thousand mile intervals long surpassed and then the contamination of
the fluid causes the sensors to get clogged with wear material and then of
course it doesn't function properly so as long as your serve
intervals are 40,000 miles maybe decreasing interval 30,000 25,000 miles
if it's a tuned vehicle or if you drive it on the track you should be totally
fine and not really have any issues with your DSG as long as you follow that
fluid-filled procedure but on that hope you learn something if you have any
questions please let us know in the comment box below all the products used
in this video will be in the description as well and we'll see you for the next
one thanks for watching one fucking take wonder did it it did it
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