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Changing some fluids and figuring why Audi S2 won't start - Duration: 19:07.

Hello, I'm Asko and welcome to a new episode

and now we begin the S2 restoration

this is the first evening that we are working with it

I have already checked the error codes from the ECU

and I have some clues what could be the reason why it won't start

I talked with the previous owner

and we prolly figured what could be the failure.

Thanks to all that have left a comment to previous episode

please leave comments in future also, it's been nice to read those

altho I don't react to everyone as time is limited

but write those comments, thanks.

and if You see me doing something stupid write a comment so we don't mess up anything

Most of the time I really don't know what I'm doing

I try to get information as much as possible from the internet but as everyone knows that doesn't tell everything

but anyway, now we try to get that engine running

and before that we change all fluids that can be changed on the engine side.

With brake fuilds I'll just take out what I can from the reservoir and fill that up

everything else will be changed thoroughly

Sorry if camera shakes a bit, but my gimball is on charge so I cannot use that now

That's all fluids we are about to change

this one is for mechanic..

I got VAG's original hydraulic fluid for the power steering pump

and that pump handels steering and brake boosting

red from the internet that this oil should be a quality one

and I wasn't sure what to put in and could you use this febi one

That's 3€ less per liter as the VAG oil

So that was not a big deal as pricewise.

Atleast we should be using a correct one.

Manual says that you should use G002000 oil

which is some old mineral oil

and VAG has updated that number to this G004000M2

So hope this one is a correct one...

we have also a new oil filter

and this cheap engine 5W40 oil

also got some distilled water

and that mixes with coolant

this time we don't put tap water

we'll flush the whole system as at the time theres old G10 coolant which are blue

Think you can mix that new one with the old

but we'll flush the whole system with tap water

if we get that engine running

But the failure what we have could be that sensor over here

Theres a engine speed sensor near flyhweel

I speaked with previous owner and he thought

the flywheel have metal pin and that could be got loose

and that's why theres no signal from the sensor

this is the old double mass flywheel

now there is a single mass with sinter clutch plate

that's the pin that could be loose

so we need to check that from the new one

so if theres no pin we need to find it

that's prolly still there on the bottom of the housing

if that's the case, we have to see if we get that back through that sensor hole

we also have to be sure that it holds there afterwards...

but anyway it could be that sensor related thing why it won't start

altho there was also one code related to throttle body

and this wiring mess could be reason for that..

I cleaned the engine bay earlier and that's why

I have the coils unplugged

Those needs to be dried...

but...

let's get started, think first I take the radiator off

so we have better access to those sensors

Radiator is off and coolant is drained

Emptied the brake fluid reservoir

and

that's also now empty

There was just a hint of oil and it was pitch black

and discovered that

there is a leak in the brake bomb hose

those return line hoses have also leaks

I'll take those off and get those repaired

If that middle t-section can be reused

Hope they can press new clamps on in that local shop

if can't then we use just regular ones

as theres no pressure on those lines

but I'll take those off and already took the sensors out

that pin was there

you can see that on the middle

so prolly it's just too far from the sensor

and that why it won't get the signal

there was a o-ring above the sensor

so we can take that off

and see if that helps

sensor was also bit offset because of that o-ring

so we hope for the best

but I have to rotate the engine

so I get that pin on the right place

then I can measure the distance between tranmission and sensor

after that we can do some adjustments

anyway I take that hose thingy off

that one banjo on steering rack could be quite interesting to take off

ok that thingy is now off

and it need new hoses

think these are just regular 8-10mm hose

there's few different style connectors

that one goes to steering rack

That one to brake bomb

this behind the master cylinder

and this one goes to reservoir

then I had to take this steering dampner off

it's completely done

checked and new one is around 50€

then I take that pump off

and empty that also couse the fluid was so black

so have to check whats inside that

and also that we get that as clean as possible

I have to take that belt off anyways

thought I try to start this without the hydraulic system

So the next thing is to get that pump off and then we start to see those sensor things

power steering pump is now off and it's here on the table

and it's a new day also

If this is broken theres no reason to buy a new one it costs 600€

and I dunno if you can still get the repair kit for it

and is there any reason to fix it

and what wories me is the color of this fluid

it's reddish, so if someone has used ATF oil

so then that pump seals are broken

it wasn't so oily when I washed the engine but it leaks a bit anyway

so it could be rational to make a conversion to normal vacuum brake booster

and make that brake bomb delete

I looked and there was quite many that had done it

I assume that you can change power steering pump at the same time

from another Audi like A6 or A4

you need to make a new holder for it but it's not a big deal

and also looked that those sensors prolly aren´t the reason for not starting

apparently if you read codes without engine running

it gives that speed sensor code every time

so prolly those are ok.

but then there was that throttle body error

so have to check those wires

and if it won't start after that

then we check does it even get fuel

and if it does then we have rethink this...

and if you know which brake servo would be the best to fit

leave a comment or send me a mail

and email can be fould behind the channel details

think that booster has to be quite powerfull

and not a excotic one so that the price isn't also

and..

which power steering pump would be the best fit

relating to that brake servo...

I have these little brembo's brake calibers here....

think these are like RS2 ones or some Porsche

which I think needs quite a lot pressure .....

but anyway I go change some clothes....

Let's end this episode

I didn't get that engine running

and prolly it has nothing do with those speed sensors

It gives that speed sensor error code

altho in VCDS you don't see rpm's when starting

dunno if it should

but I think it isn't the case here

then there is that throttle body code

and if you know if that could be the reason leave a comment

found one article from the net that there is a micro switch inside

that could fail. but didn't see if that could cause this

but we'll see that on the next episode.

think I'll take that off and if it that could be measured some how

and dunno what to do with that steering pump

I just got mail from USA that there is a repair kit for it available

but have to think as it will cost 40€ incl shipping, taxes and stuff

so is there a reason to pay that if we'll go for that vacuum brake servo

thats all for this time

OK, let's pause this. I promised to go through all the costs

and in this episode I changed engine oils and filter

Oil was 22,90€

and filter 5,90€

so total cost amount at the moment is 68,80€

thats all for this time

and write a comments for helping me on this project as for what you think

but anyway we'll see on the next episode...BYE!