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[MUSIC PLAYING]

DAN EDMUNDS: When we purchased our Jeep Wrangler,

one of the things we bought was the dual top option.

So today, we're going to show you

what it's like to remove the hard top

and install the soft top.

I can't help but notice that there's

one thing that was missing in that box,

and that was instructions.

So we're going to have to figure it out as we go along.

The first step is to remove the freedom panels.

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Every new Jeep Wrangler comes with a tool kit

so that you can fold the windshield, remove the doors,

and swap the tops.

It's got everything you need right here.

So these are the only tools we expect to use today.

This top bolts on, and already I can see three bolts here

in the back on this side and three more on the other side.

So we've got six, but there's got

to be something up front that holds the front of the top on.

So I'm going to go look for that.

Yeah, there's one right here, and another on that side.

So it looks like all together I've got to remove eight bolts.

There are two torques bolts in the kit, a 40 and a 50.

This is the 50.

Well, that's not very tight, but I guess they don't need to be.

They just have to compress the gasket enough

so it doesn't leak.

You don't want to crack anything.

So I've removed eight bolts, and these are not

anything I want to lose.

I think there might be a place on board

where I can store them.

It's good to know that there's no empty holes here.

These are for the windshield and these are for the doors.

But we're not quite ready to take the top off

just yet, because this has a defroster, a rear wiper, which

you can see here, and a washer nozzle.

And so, there's some connections in this corner

that I have to undo before we can lift the top off.

All right, well, I haven't done this

before on the JL, which is this new 2018 Wrangler,

but this looks easy enough.

Push that in.

That came off real easy.

Doesn't drip.

Boom.

We've got the electrical connector and the water

hose disconnected.

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I didn't think about this, but Jeep did.

The things we just unplugged here just kind of flop around,

but looks like--

I didn't know what this was at first, but now it's obvious.

This goes in here theoretically.

Maybe this way is better.

There we go.

And that goes there.

So now those things are clean and tidy and out of the way.

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I think I figured this out, surprisingly enough.

These bolts appear to go through here.

Because this is threaded on this side, and it looks like it's

going to sandwich this around the roll cage structure.

So let's see if I'm right.

That seems to be the trick.

These also look like the smaller T40 torques bit, not the 50

we used to take the top off.

So I got to switch that.

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Well, putting those on made it real obvious

what these parts are.

Same thing, but over the driver's

seat in the front passenger.

So let's go put them on.

These pieces here go behind the rear door.

And this is where the rear window will attach,

and this is where the rear door will be.

And it fills in the gap that's below the pieces we just

put on.

Probably, I should have put these on first,

but it doesn't look like a tragedy.

And if any, I can just loosen something if I need to.

This is where the instructions would have been nice.

So this piece has to go in there.

I'm going to have to take this back off.

Maybe loosen this so I can slide this in.

So when you do this, put this piece

on first with a little rubber gasket on there

and you won't have this problem.

There's no bolt here.

This little noise is probably something

that once the windows is on here, it will pull it taut

and it won't matter.

Close this right there.

We are putting little corner pieces on here.

And these corner trim pieces right here.

That one goes on that side.

This one goes on the passenger side.

We'll do this one first.

And it looks like it's going to be this bolt, which requires me

to switch to the T50 bolt bit.

Here we go.

This piece removes.

It's got a couple of clips.

I can feel it.

It's just a little bit tight.

This on in the front especially.

There it is.

And one of these, we'll figure out soon

in a minute, maybe both, is related

to the hinge for the top.

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So as we remove more pieces, it becomes more obvious

what we have to put on.

These are the hinge plates.

This is left hand.

And looks pretty obvious, this up.

So I think I know exactly how to put it on.

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These are the last four bolts and we have the top.

Those are all parts for the side windows and the back window.

So this is the home stretch.

I'm going to need some help on this part,

though, because this is going to be a little awkward.

Maybe if I've done it two or three times

I'd be able to do it myself, but maybe not the first time.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

This part is a two-man job.

You just got to get the two sides aligned

before the bolts will go in.

There's some pretty good lineup aids here,

but you got to have one set of eyes

on each side to make sure everything's

where it needs to be.

This other one goes down here.

Now, those were the last bolts.

Pretty much, were done.

I mean, if we were running with the top down,

it would look like this.

The side windows and the back window

that we haven't put on yet, wouldn't

be on if we were driving around like this.

So now we can put the top up, and button it up

with the side and back windows.

I think I hear something in the back.

First time-- what's going on here?

Everything looks right.

Just can't quite get the latches to match up.

There we go.

The top is up.

We're in Safari mode.

But let's put on the side windows and the back window

and seal this up.

So here's a side panel.

And these are different from last year.

What you've got here is a groove that slides onto a rod,

and that'll support the weight of the entire thing

and hold it up while we insert these

into clips along the front and back and sides.

So this is the key.

This is what makes this soft top easier to do than last year's.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

The final piece is the rear window.

And like the side panels, there's no zippers involved.

This has a sliding hinge and clips around the side.

So again, you don't have to worry about dust

getting in the zipper.

Big problem before.

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And this piece here, this is the bottom of the window.

This gives it its shape along the bottom edge.

Once I have this installed, I probably

won't take it off next time I remove the window.

I'll probably just leave this part on.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

So this goes in there.

Close the bottom.

And the final thing is tuck this up in here.

Get this started at the top, and then fold it on down.

Easier said than done the first time.

Brand new top.

Things haven't stretched out.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

There we go.

Well, that wasn't too bad.

I didn't have instructions, so I struggled a bit.

So it took me about an hour.

With practice, I could probably knock that down to 30 minutes.

I'm still going to need a friend's help

to get the hard top off and get the soft top on.

With all the little brackets and bolts, that's a one-man job.

Anyway, I'm good to go for the summer.

I can run with the sides and top down if I want.

And next winter, I can put the hard top back on.

For more videos about Jeep or any other vehicle,

click subscribe.

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For more infomation >> How to Remove the Hard Top and Install a Soft Top | 2018 Jeep Wrangler JL - Duration: 10:18.

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2018 Jeep Wrangler JL Soft Top Unboxing | Edmunds - Duration: 3:08.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

DAN EDMUNDS: One of the first questions

any Jeep Wrangler buyer has to answer

is, which top do I get, soft top or the optional hard top?

Well, if you're buying a Wrangler Unlimited, which

is code for four-door, you could get both.

But don't bring the kids to the dealership

when you go to pick it up because there's

no place for them to sit.

Let's pull this thing out, open it up, and see what's inside.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

This one's got some heft to it.

I wonder what's in there.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

Oh, this is a spacer.

Doesn't have anything in it.

And then this sounds like it has bolts and nuts.

And of course, there's the top itself.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

Trim pieces.

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Me thinks there's gonna be a lot to do.

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More trim pieces.

That one's steel.

Couple more bolts.

Still more bolts, and some strap things.

You know, this box is probably a good place

to keep these until I need them.

That's what was in there.

And we'll get back to those in a little bit.

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It's a thing.

Looks like this goes along the back, just above the tailgate.

That's my bet.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

Oh.

We know what these are.

We've got the two rear side windows, and one for the back.

All that's left is the top itself.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

This has got a cover on it.

[MUSIC PLAYING]

So this is what you get if you buy the dual-top option.

Other than what looks like about an hour

of work and probably a storage problem,

I can't help but notice that the only thing that wasn't

in that box was instructions.

And I checked that empty box that

might have had something in it.

It was empty, so no instructions.

We're gonna have to make this up as we go along.

To see what it's like to go from one top to the other,

check out our Jeep Wrangler top swap video.

And to see more videos like this, hit Subscribe.

For more infomation >> 2018 Jeep Wrangler JL Soft Top Unboxing | Edmunds - Duration: 3:08.

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Jeep Wrangler JK Insane Audio Navigation Head Unit (2007-2018) Review & Install - Duration: 16:18.

Hey, guys, so today I'm here with the Insane Audio Multimedia Center and Navigation Unit.

This is gonna be for all of you '07 to '18 JK owners out there looking for a fully capable

head unit that can do it all.

This is gonna have a laundry list of features as well as all the basic features that carry

over from our stock head unit.

And this can even diagnose and read and clear engine codes.

But at the moment, this is gonna be our only option for a navigation unit on the site.

And the price is a little steep at $1,200.

Now, there are a lot of navigation units out on the market and they are a lot cheaper than

this one, but I've seen those and I have seen that they do not have as many features as

this one does.

So I think that the price does check out.

I also like the fact that this thing looks like it came right out of the factory.

It has a great OEM fit and it's covered by a three-year and 36,000-mile warranty.

It's gonna be a very easy install at one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter,

and I'll show you that in just a minute.

So our first step for this install is removing the whole dash so we can access the bolts

on our head unit.

So first things first, we need to remove the rubber mat on top of our dash and that is

just held in.

Take that out.

And then there is a seven-millimeter bolt holding in this top track.

So after that top bolt is removed, we are gonna remove this center portion here.

It may vary model to model.

You may just have an open hole or you may have this centerpiece as your window controls.

So, you're just gonna take a trim removal tool or a flathead or if you're using a screwdriver,

just make sure you're not damaging your plastic because we are putting all this back on and

that should just pop out.

So you will have to disassemble this wiring harness, and we will put that back together

at the end.

So you will have a tab up here that you can press down and you should be able to release

that harness.

After you have your center portion out, you can now access that seven-millimeter bolt

inside there holding your dash on.

So after we're finished with the center portion of the dashboard, we can move over to underneath

the steering wheel.

We're gonna have to remove this trim piece to access two more seven-millimeter bolts.

So, you can start at the top or the bottom.

Usually, if you start at the top, it is a little bit easier to pry off.

So you can completely remove that piece underneath the steering wheel and then you'll have two

seven-millimeter bolts on either side that we could remove.

So after we have this bottom portion removed with the two seven-millimeter bolts removed,

we can now remove this front dash panel.

So I think the easiest way to get in here is to push this portion back and wedge your

trim removal tool here and you can pull forward since it is held in with clips.

That'll at least get you started.

Pull that portion up and out and just move around.

All right.

And once that is completely popped out of all of its clips, you can fully remove it.

So with our dash panel completely removed, we can now access the four seven-millimeter

bolts that are holding in our stock head unit.

We can go ahead and remove those so we can get this out of here.

So to give yourself a little bit of room, you can either use a deep socket seven-millimeter,

like I'm using here, or you can use an extension with the shallow socket.

It'll just give you a lot more room to work with.

So after we have those four bolts removed, we can pop our head unit out.

So after our head unit is out, we have our main wiring harness and then another wiring

harness.

We're gonna disconnect both of those.

This will have a lever on the back.

You just have to push that in and then this little tricky guy will have a lever over here,

but you have to push that out.

What I did I just took a flathead screwdriver, push that out, and it will slide right off.

Then you can fully remove your head unit.

So right off the bat you can tell that there's a bunch of huge visual differences between

the stock head unit and our new Insane Audio head unit.

So our stock head unit has a bunch of limited controls, a very little screen, and big buttons.

And then when you move over to our new head unit, you see that there's a lot more options

on the side here and a big face LCD screen which is touchscreen.

So along with being a lot different visually, this is gonna be a lot more durable than our

stock head unit.

This is gonna be made with no moving parts and nothing is gonna wear out or break over

time.

And this is also IP66 rated, which means it's completely dust proof as well as completely

waterproof.

So if it's dusty out on the trail and you do have your top down, the dust will not bother

the new head unit.

And if you are power washing your Jeep out and if you accidentally spray this, this head

unit will be okay.

So let's get this thing installed on our wrangler.

So after we've disconnected our harnesses and fully removed our head unit, if you do

have Uconnect, I would take out that Uconnect module.

Insane Audio has realized that the Uconnect modules can still stay active and they can

actively drain your battery.

So I would take that out immediately after, and now we can get ready to put our new head

unit in.

So after uninstalling our stock head unit, we have to do a little bit of assembly with

our new wiring harnesses before we get this new unit into our wrangler.

So this will be our main wiring harness that's gonna give us power to our head unit.

So we can connect this back connector here into this black box, which it also has a 15

amp fuse.

And everything that you need right off the bat is going to already be wired in here.

Now, you have two orange wires that will be disconnected.

If you do have a reverse camera, I would recommend connecting these and hooking up your camera

with this auxiliary wire and your RCA cable that you have here.

But if you do not have that, you do not have to connect that or connect that wiring harness.

So after this is connected, we can move along to our other components.

So next we can install our GPS module onto our new head unit.

So you will have a little screw that you will be able to screw into the back here.

This will connect on the far side and you can hand thread that on.

And once it's hand started on, you can tighten it lightly down with an eight-millimeter wrench.

Once that back section is attached...this is actually a magnet.

So you can just place that right on top.

So after our GPS module is installed, we can install our Wi-Fi antenna on a very similar

adapter over here.

You can just hand thread that on and once that is threaded down completely, you can

just lightly tighten that with an eight-millimeter wrench so it's snug.

So after you have your Wi-Fi antenna attached, you can attach your accessory cables.

So your first accessory cable that you can attach is your external mic.

Now, we're not gonna actually mount up the head of the microphone just yet because we're

gonna wait till we're inside of the cab with this folded up, but we can attach the end.

So we can feed that through when we're inside of the Jeep.

So you're gonna attach this here.

So this accessory wire here is gonna be our phone adapter.

So this is a little bit of an older model.

If you wanna go out and outsource, you can get something that will adapt to your phone.

But anyway, this will attach to this accessory wire coming off of the back here.

So your last accessory wire is gonna be your USB adapter and you're actually gonna have

two USB ports down here.

So you wanna make sure that your GPS module is out of the way of those so you can just

plug one end in and leave the other end open for another USB.

And you can run that along with your other wires.

So with all of the wiring that comes in the kit, you're also gonna get this little blue

module here.

This is gonna plug into your OBD2 and allow your new head unit to read and clear trouble

codes.

Also, Insane Audio is gonna provide a wiring diagram as well as a circuit diagram on top

of the head unit.

So now that we have all of our accessory wires connected, we have two wiring harnesses left

out of the box.

So this is gonna be your RCA wiring harness.

This is if you have an aftermarket subwoofer and other auxiliary systems inside your wrangler.

We don't.

So we're gonna leave this harness alone.

And then this last wire is gonna be your AM/FM radio wire.

So this is just gonna attach right in the back here and we will plug this into the existing

harness that's already in the Jeep.

So before we bolt up our new head unit, we need to run our wire so that they are accessible

inside the cab.

So what Insane Audio recommended is to feed them through the side and into our glovebox.

So there is a little hole and you'll be able to see the light in there.

Then we can feed those through, so we can access when they're inside the cab.

You can do the same with your phone wire.

So after those are fed through, we can attach our wiring harness.

So we can attach our main wiring harness first.

That will clip in.

We're gonna attach that back there.

Then we can attach our AM/FM connector together.

After that is attached, you can take your external microphone and route it up through

here.

We're gonna mount it up on top of our dash.

So we can let this wire sit up here just for now and tuck the rest of it behind with our

head unit.

And you wanna leave enough slack to where you can mount up your microphone.

So after all of your wires are run through, we can mount up our system.

So I would recommend to clean up your wiring a little bit just because this is gonna be

a lot into the smaller compartment here and you don't want to crimp anything or stress

any of your wires.

You can tuck off all of your wiring after it's secured in.

And after that, you can tuck and clean up all of your wiring.

So after your nav unit is mounted up, then we can bolt it in with the four seven-millimeter

bolts.

So now that our nav system is bolted up and wired in, we can pop our dash back on.

So before actually popping it on, I would recommend that you check to see how much length

you should have for your external mic, and just be careful that you're not mounting it

near any vents or you're not mounting it near your window, so you don't get a lot of outside

interference.

Once everything's in place, you can just pop it back.

So before popping in our trim piece that's underneath the steering wheel, we need to

reinstall those bolts that we took out.

Now you can either pop in this storage centerpiece or if you have a window controller like we

do, you can reconnect the wiring harness, clip that in and push that little pin down,

and just pop that back into place.

Now, we can bolt in this top section here.

After that's bolted in, you can pop in your little plastic piece and mount up your mic

to wherever you want.

Now we can pop in the lower panel underneath our steering wheel.

So the first thing that you wanna do once you have your navigation unit on is going

to your Bluetooth so you can set up your OBD2 module.

So once you're in your Bluetooth setting, you can plug that into your OBD2.

And when it is blinking red, it will mean that it's not paired, so then you can search

for your devices and it will come up as OBD2.

So you can click on that and connect and then it will pair.

So when you go into your torque app, it will be connected to your ECU so you'll be able

to see all of your real-time data.

You'll be able to see a tachometer, your speedometer, your coolant temperature, acceleration, your

throttle response.

And if you do have a RIPP supercharger or anything, you can see your boost.

So you can go through here and see your quarter-mile time and your best 0 to 60, not that you might

need it.

But then you can go all the way up to your top option and it will read all of your emissions

readiness and your DTC.

And if you tap this little tip in the corner, it will show you any fault codes.

So while you're on your home screen along with your torque app, you have a number of

different applications.

If you click into your apps, it will show you everything that's available.

And this thing is gonna be pretty much a smartphone.

You can go on Google.

You can check your Gmail.

You have a calendar calculator clock, really anything that you want.

I would like to mention that in the corner, you will have a starter guide that will walk

you through everything and be able to set up your navigation system to exactly how you

want it.

So that's it for my review and install on the Insane Audio Navigation Unit and Multimedia

Center.

For more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.