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Mainz 05 bietet Premium-Fensterplätze, F&B-Service im Ingolstädter Audi Sportpark... - Duration: 3:35. For more infomation >> Mainz 05 bietet Premium-Fensterplätze, F&B-Service im Ingolstädter Audi Sportpark... - Duration: 3:35.-------------------------------------------
Changing some fluids and figuring why Audi S2 won't start - Duration: 19:07.Hello, I'm Asko and welcome to a new episode
and now we begin the S2 restoration
this is the first evening that we are working with it
I have already checked the error codes from the ECU
and I have some clues what could be the reason why it won't start
I talked with the previous owner
and we prolly figured what could be the failure.
Thanks to all that have left a comment to previous episode
please leave comments in future also, it's been nice to read those
altho I don't react to everyone as time is limited
but write those comments, thanks.
and if You see me doing something stupid write a comment so we don't mess up anything
Most of the time I really don't know what I'm doing
I try to get information as much as possible from the internet but as everyone knows that doesn't tell everything
but anyway, now we try to get that engine running
and before that we change all fluids that can be changed on the engine side.
With brake fuilds I'll just take out what I can from the reservoir and fill that up
everything else will be changed thoroughly
Sorry if camera shakes a bit, but my gimball is on charge so I cannot use that now
That's all fluids we are about to change
this one is for mechanic..
I got VAG's original hydraulic fluid for the power steering pump
and that pump handels steering and brake boosting
red from the internet that this oil should be a quality one
and I wasn't sure what to put in and could you use this febi one
That's 3€ less per liter as the VAG oil
So that was not a big deal as pricewise.
Atleast we should be using a correct one.
Manual says that you should use G002000 oil
which is some old mineral oil
and VAG has updated that number to this G004000M2
So hope this one is a correct one...
we have also a new oil filter
and this cheap engine 5W40 oil
also got some distilled water
and that mixes with coolant
this time we don't put tap water
we'll flush the whole system as at the time theres old G10 coolant which are blue
Think you can mix that new one with the old
but we'll flush the whole system with tap water
if we get that engine running
But the failure what we have could be that sensor over here
Theres a engine speed sensor near flyhweel
I speaked with previous owner and he thought
the flywheel have metal pin and that could be got loose
and that's why theres no signal from the sensor
this is the old double mass flywheel
now there is a single mass with sinter clutch plate
that's the pin that could be loose
so we need to check that from the new one
so if theres no pin we need to find it
that's prolly still there on the bottom of the housing
if that's the case, we have to see if we get that back through that sensor hole
we also have to be sure that it holds there afterwards...
but anyway it could be that sensor related thing why it won't start
altho there was also one code related to throttle body
and this wiring mess could be reason for that..
I cleaned the engine bay earlier and that's why
I have the coils unplugged
Those needs to be dried...
but...
let's get started, think first I take the radiator off
so we have better access to those sensors
Radiator is off and coolant is drained
Emptied the brake fluid reservoir
and
that's also now empty
There was just a hint of oil and it was pitch black
and discovered that
there is a leak in the brake bomb hose
those return line hoses have also leaks
I'll take those off and get those repaired
If that middle t-section can be reused
Hope they can press new clamps on in that local shop
if can't then we use just regular ones
as theres no pressure on those lines
but I'll take those off and already took the sensors out
that pin was there
you can see that on the middle
so prolly it's just too far from the sensor
and that why it won't get the signal
there was a o-ring above the sensor
so we can take that off
and see if that helps
sensor was also bit offset because of that o-ring
so we hope for the best
but I have to rotate the engine
so I get that pin on the right place
then I can measure the distance between tranmission and sensor
after that we can do some adjustments
anyway I take that hose thingy off
that one banjo on steering rack could be quite interesting to take off
ok that thingy is now off
and it need new hoses
think these are just regular 8-10mm hose
there's few different style connectors
that one goes to steering rack
That one to brake bomb
this behind the master cylinder
and this one goes to reservoir
then I had to take this steering dampner off
it's completely done
checked and new one is around 50€
then I take that pump off
and empty that also couse the fluid was so black
so have to check whats inside that
and also that we get that as clean as possible
I have to take that belt off anyways
thought I try to start this without the hydraulic system
So the next thing is to get that pump off and then we start to see those sensor things
power steering pump is now off and it's here on the table
and it's a new day also
If this is broken theres no reason to buy a new one it costs 600€
and I dunno if you can still get the repair kit for it
and is there any reason to fix it
and what wories me is the color of this fluid
it's reddish, so if someone has used ATF oil
so then that pump seals are broken
it wasn't so oily when I washed the engine but it leaks a bit anyway
so it could be rational to make a conversion to normal vacuum brake booster
and make that brake bomb delete
I looked and there was quite many that had done it
I assume that you can change power steering pump at the same time
from another Audi like A6 or A4
you need to make a new holder for it but it's not a big deal
and also looked that those sensors prolly aren´t the reason for not starting
apparently if you read codes without engine running
it gives that speed sensor code every time
so prolly those are ok.
but then there was that throttle body error
so have to check those wires
and if it won't start after that
then we check does it even get fuel
and if it does then we have rethink this...
and if you know which brake servo would be the best to fit
leave a comment or send me a mail
and email can be fould behind the channel details
think that booster has to be quite powerfull
and not a excotic one so that the price isn't also
and..
which power steering pump would be the best fit
relating to that brake servo...
I have these little brembo's brake calibers here....
think these are like RS2 ones or some Porsche
which I think needs quite a lot pressure .....
but anyway I go change some clothes....
Let's end this episode
I didn't get that engine running
and prolly it has nothing do with those speed sensors
It gives that speed sensor error code
altho in VCDS you don't see rpm's when starting
dunno if it should
but I think it isn't the case here
then there is that throttle body code
and if you know if that could be the reason leave a comment
found one article from the net that there is a micro switch inside
that could fail. but didn't see if that could cause this
but we'll see that on the next episode.
think I'll take that off and if it that could be measured some how
and dunno what to do with that steering pump
I just got mail from USA that there is a repair kit for it available
but have to think as it will cost 40€ incl shipping, taxes and stuff
so is there a reason to pay that if we'll go for that vacuum brake servo
thats all for this time
OK, let's pause this. I promised to go through all the costs
and in this episode I changed engine oils and filter
Oil was 22,90€
and filter 5,90€
so total cost amount at the moment is 68,80€
thats all for this time
and write a comments for helping me on this project as for what you think
but anyway we'll see on the next episode...BYE!
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