Welcome my friends.
This is save the eclipse, a series about Mitsubishi eclipse.
In it I detail sentiment about the whole process of transformation
this machine is made of metal pile cult car.
Played NEED for SPEED?
That's about the same.
The series for fans of this models, but also owners of other
machines will find a lot useful information.
So a series of 12 . About that can be found inside rocker panels
20-year-old car.
In the first parts I showed the condition of the body of this
eclipse.
The second generation has the two most common
problems.
These are the front fenders and the rear of the sills.
And if the front fenders already someone corrected to
me on this body, and we we decided this time to preserve
new pockets of rust with using chemistry.
That's the problem with the back rocker panels will have to decide
on any.
See for yourself.
This part of the rapids almost no, and the saddest thing is that
came into disrepair mount longitudinal arm.
And I can't continue building machines, until not will decide
this issue.
At least the arm I have will put to collect
all other nodes and send body in body repair.
Although likely body master d again I, not
to lose such a fit content.
Yes and money finally earn.
It was very difficult to find donor with whole rocker panels,
but I managed to find the right one part of the sill in perfect
condition.
They were brought from the other side light and this is what I was told
a couple of episodes ago.
And now I have parse the body
details on the individual elements, to reassemble them
already on the back of the machine.
The body of this Eclipse is metal and consists of many
elements'.
All of them are collected in a single housing with point
weldings.
Say that one point withstands the load on the
tear to one ton . Willingly I believe in this statement,
when the floor can't to remove the item because of a
such point.
To disassemble the body on spare parts need to drill
all welding points.
But welding is not always well visible and not always
have access to drill, so the process is very long, but
interesting.
By the way not cheap, special drill bits for drilling
spot welding are not It's too small.
I used 8mm drill bits Wurth firms . Kitchen masters
their very praise, but even they come into disrepair
fairly rapid.
The task of this drill is not drill a hole
through, and cut metal around the weld site in one
of the two connected between a elements.
It is desirable not to severely damage the second
welded element.
Under the paint and anticorrosive welding spots are not always visible,
we have to clean everything to the metal, but this is not always
helps.
There is a cunning secret the point that holds everything
design. About this, I spoke earlier, but with the help
hammer and chisel succeed defeat her.
The first part is separated.
I had to make 20 holes. .
It was an amplifier mount. longitudinal arm.
Then it is necessary adversity 3 layers of rocker panel.
It's not really rocker panel.
The outer layer is part of rear wing.
To the front of the rocker panel it also attaches point
welding.
Internal power elements assembled in one piece
bottoms, wings and sills.
It all adds up the same the ledge on which usually
put a Jack or paws lift when lifting
bodyworks.
Rear mudguard for me too will need, but first
from it it is necessary to separate the wing.
This splash guard is well taped sealant and to see
spot welding will have to clean it up.
It is best to deal with it metal brush, nozzle
for Bulgarians it is a hedgehog.
But the metal under this protection preserved in perfect
condition.
I don't know why but part of connections are not made by points
and a continuous seam, to remove it much harder than drilling.
points.
It is not very convenient for cut the Bulgarian place.
But again the hammer and chisel they come to my rescue.
I have long had seems that auto body shops
repair is a hammer job.
As a result, I have 6 elements from a donor that needs to be moved.
on the back, plus a few internal rocker panel elements
which will be used for patches the inner part of the rocker panel.
Look at the Body, this of course tin.
Rust has damaged all layers.
And I need to take it apart.
But There is one bonus, some details can be sawn off,
and with those that all -??? need to you have to drill
povozitsya.
On rotten metal after sand blasting
the weld areas are rubbed.
And to understand where were the welding locations
it is necessary to apply the same detail with the donor.
The holes are of course the same not 100%, but a rough guide
eat.
Now at least it is clear how many holes should
be.
But drilling on the weight thing not easy.
Benefit detachable item will go to scrap and
her appearance is taken care of no need.
So I saw it on separate part.
And break off the pieces from the body.
But what I was talking about not once: last point
as always kept entire design.
When I see all this rot, hands down and regret
that decided on the body repair this car.
But we must act, I'm sure that everything will be super .
Cut without waiting for peritonitis, as the classic said, though
here just very started peritonitis.
I will try as much as possible remove rusty areas,
and those that are outside the direct access will handle vosstanavlivaya
and protective chemistry.
Inner layers also like would restore so
cut off d with caution, to save power
structure.
Comment on what is happening difficult, no words, you yourself
everyone can see the state it's in.
But step by step it is necessary to remove all this shit.
By the way very interesting to have made in the usual
body service with these the rapids?
I think they would have painted long ago ready detail and can scarcely
who ever found out would that cooked they only
the outer visible layer of the metal, leaving a void inside
. Well okay not all of these, but I'd rather do anything.
himself. So as the safer.
Now everything looks much nicer.
No holes, rusty scraps metal does not stick, looks
almost like a new car.
But on the other hand with the rocker panel all the same.
I don't know how many Amateurs the long process looks
my videos, So the second side of the machine will show the maximum
briefly, and hours a detailed video report will fill
on its second channel for fans of action.
The link will deliver as usual hither.
Well, the extreme detail that I don't like it, it's a crossbar.
Power element between the spars.
It's also all rusty. 0:13:48.800,0:13:51.830 It will also have to drill, but as for the welding
not in sight at all, and account for to get into them blindly.
But if long suffer anything turn out.
The look on my face emphasizes word long.
Here is what I removed from the body this car and possibly
this is only part of the defects which you can see.
And in fact the car 20 years and that is happening in all hidden
body cavities are not known.
This pile of trash when it standing right there.
Now instead it shall put donor details.
Of course still to be held mechanical and chemical
cleaning of collected elements.
And after this will Have collect inner layers,
then one after another to collect external.
Butt welding or overlapping, dots or stitches.
If you have any ideas how and what better to do next,
then write your advice in comments. during assembly
and installation of the next series I will be guided
on you.
That's all for today . Subscribe to my channel,
put likes, and if you want to support my work
then share my VIDEOS with your friends.
Good luck, everybody.
For more infomation >> Mitsubishi Outlander 2.2 DI-D Instyle 155pk 4WD Leder, Schuif/kanteldak, Trekhaak 4x4 - Duration: 1:14. 
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