This Select Increments Neo-Pod is for those of you that have a 2007 to 2018 four-Door
JK, that are looking for a way to have a subwoofer if you don't have one from the factory.
And you want something that is going to be a little bit stealthy, and not take a lot
of your cargo space up in your Jeep because let's face it, even the four-doors don't have
that much room inside.
This system is going to be a two out of three wrench installation even though it does come
with everything, there's going to be a little bit of wiring, some of it is just plug-and-play,
others you do have to tap into some wires.
That is a little bit going to depend on your existing system as well.
So there's going to be a little bit of work here.
We're going to show you how to get this installed in just a minute.
This system is going to come with everything you need, all the wiring, all of the instructions
to get a 8-inch sub mounted in this box, specifically formed to fit underneath the passenger seat
of your JK, so self-contained, very, very nice unit that comes with everything that
you need perfectly matched.
And that's what's really important about a system like this.
You can buy just the box, so you can buy just the box and the sub.
But this system, box, sub, amp, and all the wiring, and everything, everything is matched
by a professional.
So, if you're somebody who doesn't really have a full firm grasp of the car audio and
exactly what you need to consider when bringing different components together, all of that
work is already done for you.
This is going to be a very simple system because you don't have to do all of that research.
Again, if you are into that, you can buy just this box if you want something that's a little
bit stealthy, stuff your components in there, and make that work.
So a system like this, because all of the legwork has been done, because all of the
research has been done, everything is matched together and paired perfectly, and you're
getting a box that is designed specifically for your vehicle, a nice stealthy style mounting
box, this is going to be a little bit more expensive than if you were to just purchase
individual components.
Again, a lot of what you're paying for is this box, but you're also getting some very
high-quality speaker components, so this is going to be a little bit on the pricey side.
If you are looking for a stealthy box, you want high quality components, you don't want
to have to piece something together yourself.
This is going to be a great choice.
So, I already talked about a couple of the components that are included in this kit.
The big one is right here, you have your sealed sub box, and that is molded and designed to
fit directly underneath the passenger seat of your four-door JK.
But what's very important is how this sub and this box were designed to work together.
Again, this is a sealed box.
The volume of the box is matched for the recommended volume of this 8-inch trigger sub so they're
going to work really well together and that is one of the things that you need to consider
when you're doing a car audio installation.
And again, that legwork is done for you also.
The 8-inchtrigger sub is matched to this 300-watt amp.
So you don't have to worry about resistance, ohms, you don't have to worry about voltage
outputs, all of that research, all that matching is taken care of for you.
Speaking of which, this is going to be a 2-ohm sub.
And as I said over here, you have a 300-watt amplifier to power that.
So, you have all of the components that are necessary.
And all of them are matched very well to give you a very high quality of sound output.
You're also going to have all of your wiring that is going to be necessary.
So depending on whether you have an aftermarket system in your Jeep, you have a factory system,
you have a factory system with an existing sub, you're going to have to wire this up
a little bit differently, but you are going to have everything you need.
So, even if you don't have a sub, you just need to tap into a existing channel, and have
that be the output that goes into the amp, and then into the sub, that give you the vampire,
plus they give you the RCAMs.
They give you everything that you're going to need to get everything hooked up in your
Jeep.
And again, I keep saying it, but all of the legwork, all the research is done to make
sure all the stuff matches, and you're not just spending money on something that's not
going to sound good, because this doesn't match up with that.
All of that is already done for you and that's part of what you're paying for in it get like
this.
This system comes in at just shy of $500 dollars.
Now, you could buy an amp, a sub, the wiring harness, and a box that isn't designed to
fit specifically underneath the passenger seat of your Jeep for less than that.
But then you're taking up room in that cargo area for a stealthy box that is designed specifically
for your JK that is stuffed with perfectly matched high-quality components, I don't think
$500 dollars is that bad of a price.
Again, if you are really into car audio, you could piece something together, you could
make something work for less money, and the fact that money even sounds better.
But if you don't have a firm grasp of a car audio, you don't want to spend the hours researching
what works well together, and you want a box that's going to be nice and stealthy.
This is a self-contained kit that's priced pretty fairly for everything that you're going
to get.
Now, I'll have a member of the install team show you how you get this installed in your
JK.
Now, this installation does not require you to remove your seat, however, we did remove
them just so you can get a better idea of how it looks underneath there.
First thing we're going to do is, we're going to move this panel and these two pushpins
so we can get our speaker wires.
So now, that we've removed this panel, we've exposed the wires, we're going to tap into
the wires for the sound bar.
Now, we have two green wires, and we have two grey wires.
Those are the left and the rear.
So, we are going to take our supplied wire, we going to wind up tapping into those wires.
So now, grey is placed into these sound bar wires, so we are going to use our supplied
length of wire, we're going to cut that in half, and then we'll use our provided blue
locking tabs just place into that.
So, we're going to go ahead, take this piece, cut that in half, pin these wires back.
We're going to separate these wire sum.
We're going to start with the grey wires.
The grey wires are for the left rear sound bar speaker.
Now, we have a light green stripe which is the positive, and we have a dark green stripe
which is the negative.
So, we're going to wire them accordingly.
So, we're going to take our little vampire blue clips, then we'll get those installed.
So we're going to go ahead and slide our wire into the back until it stops at the end, and
then we're going to wrap it around our wire like this, and then we'll push that pin down,
and that I'll splice in the both wires.
Then you can take this, wrap that around, and that will clamp that shut.
Next, we're going to need the negative side which has the dark green stripe on it.
Same thing goes for that.
So now that we have this side done, we're ready to splice into these two green wires.
Same thing goes, the light stripe is for the positive, the dark stripe is for the negative.
So next, we're going to wire up for the right rear speaker.
Now, these are the two green wires, the light green stripe is going to be for the positive.
So we're going to start with that, and we'll attach that to our blue wire.
So, we're going to insert our wire into the clip, we're going to slide it into our clip
until the bottom's out, then we'll clamp it over our wire, then will squeeze the tab down.
Then we can flip the lock, and lock it in place.
So, now the other green wire has a gray stripe on it, that's for the negative.
So, we're going to do the same thing, we're going to slide our lock on until our bottom
is out, and then we're going to tap into that wire.
So, now that we have our new wires tapped into our sound bar wires, we're going to label
which side they are, since there is a left and right, then we're going to run them under
the carpet over the driver's side seat where we're going to attach them to our amp.
You want to take a piece of tape.
We're just going to take a piece of tape, touch it like that, and then we'll just write
which side it's for.
So we have this one hooked up to the gray wires, which is the left side rear speaker.
So, we're going to begin by pulling our carpet back.
So we can clear a path for these wires to run.
We're going to swing our wires around and just run this all the way across.
And then we can pop these out right here, and then get ready to wire them up to the
amp.
So, the next step is to attach the ground wire from the body to the amp.
So we have our Phillips head screwdriver, 10-millimeter socket, and our wiring tool.
So the first thing we're going to do is we're going to strip the end of this wire, and we're
going to attach an end, so we can attach that to the box, then we'll cut our wire to the
length, and attach it to the body.
So we're going to take our end.
Try to get all of the copper inside of there, then we're going to crimp our end on.
So on the backside of here, we have a terminal that says, "ground."
So we're going to go ahead and use a Phillips head to unscrew that, then we can insert our
new end in there, and then tighten that back up.
So two things to note since we are installing this under the seat, we wanted to phase so
you can access then just the settings while it's under there.
Also you want to make sure that we have our ground wire hooked up before you apply any
power to it.
So since we're in the process of doing this ground wire, we want to make this as short
as possible, so we're going to go ahead and, kind of, eye that up.
And then we'll cut this to a length, attach an islet on the end of it, and then get that
mounted underneath that mount.
So the next step, we're going to pop this panel off from the passenger side, so we can
pass a wire through this section.
So, we're going to use a flat head screwdriver and just push it in there, pop this panel
off.
And once we have this panel off, we're going to poke a hole through this foam in here,
so we can send our power wire through.
So now that we have that cover off, we're going to poke a hole through this foam.
And send our power wires through.
Next, we're going to open our hood, so we can accept the power wire through the firewall.
So now that we've poked a hole through the foam out the other side, we're going to go
ahead and fish our wire through.
So now that we have our power wire pulled through, we're going to cut it, put it in
our fuse holder, and then we're going to put a terminal in the end.
So first, you want to measure from the battery, get a good idea of the length that you want,
and then we're going to cut that.
So, we're going to need to strip both ends of the short wire that we cut off.
It's still good.
So on the one end we're going to attach a terminal ring.
This is going to attach to the battery side.
On the other side, we're going to unscrew this here, and we're going to feed our wire
through.
So slide that whole section down, and put this little rubber grommet on there.
And you want to use a 3-millimeter Allen key, we're going to unscrew this set screw.
That way we can place our wire inside of there.
And then we're going to tighten that back up to secure it.
Once that's secured, you can go ahead and slide that little collar all the way back
up, and then screw that end back on.
Now, we're going to do the same thing for the other side.
Shave some of the sheathing off.
We're going to unscrew this end, slide on, slide that little grommet on.
Once that's set, we can slide this back up, and close that, and then you can attach that
right there.
Now at this point in time, I'm not going to hook it up to the battery because we still
have to run the wire all the way to the vehicle.
So now this is all assembled, we can mount this here, you can mount it right next to
the battery, there's a little spot for it.
I'm not going to hook the end up to the battery yet, just because we have to run the wire
all the way through the Jeep.
This eventual will feed over to there.
So next step, we have to get this wire over to the amp.
So we're going to go down through the dash, over the center console, and over to that.
So we're going to start off by pushing this back through here.
And we're just going to feed this down.
It's going to come out somewhere, at some point.
Oh, yeah.
So next step, we're going to have to peel back the carpet, so we can send it to the
footwell in the center console.
So, we're going to need to remove these nuts down here.
That's usually just spin off by hand.
And then once you get those out, you can peel the carpet back, just enough that we can feed
this wire behind it.
So we're going to take the end of our wire, we're going to go all the way under the center
console, right back here, and it should drop off the other side.
So now, we're going to go ahead and just tuck our wire back here, underneath this carpet,
and then we'll put the carpet back.
Put our nuts back on.
So, we're just going to peel this section back here.
You can go ahead just feed our wire underneath there.
So next, you're going to choose a location to mount your base level controller.
You can mount this anywhere in the Jeep.
However, we're going to mount it right on the dash.
So, we're going to have to take the dash apart, so we can access the 12-Volt on the cigarette
lighter.
So to begin removing the center of dash, we're going to pull out on this, and then we're
going to unplug this.
So there's a red lock on the back, that you're going to want to release, then we get to push
down on this clip, and disconnect that.
That's the red lock right there.
And then the tab is right here that you're going to press down on.
Once we have that off, there's a screw in here that we're going to remove, so we can
take this vent section off.
That's going to be a 7-millimeter socket.
Pull that screw out, save that for later.
After you get this section pulled up a little bit, we can go and detach this lower section.
Then once we get this off, then we can disconnect everything from behind.
So now that we have the panel off, we're ready to tap into the cigarette lighter wire.
So we're going to tap into the hot wire, which is a blue wire with a pink trace, then we're
going to run that down to the amp through the dash.
So we're going to use one of those blue clips again.
And we're just going to tap into this.
So we're going to go around the wire, feed our amp wire into that.
And you want to make sure that both wires are in there correctly.
And then we're going to go ahead and splice that, and close our connection.
So now we're going to fish our amp wire down through the dash, hopefully out of the bottom,
so we can go under the carpet with it.
And here she is.
Then we're going to feed our wire all the way through, and we're going to do the same
thing we did with our power wire.
We're just going to go under the carpet here.
We're probably going to have a lot of slack, you can cut that short, or you can bundle
it up and zip tie it.
Anyway, we're just going to tuck this back in there.
Move on to our next step.
So while this panel's out, we're going to mount our base level controller to it.
So we're just going to make some marks, and then we'll drill some holes, and install the
provided screws.
So, now that you have your holes pre-drilled, you're ready to put your dash back together.
So we're going to reconnect all our connections.
We will need to get this panel underneath of the vent section.
We can get it up, push it back in, then we can push our vent back in, and then reinstall
our 7-millimeter screw.
After that, we can put our window switch back in.
And then we can attach our base level controller.
So now that we have our controller mounted, we're going to run our wire down through here,
and through the carpet.
So we're going to go ahead pop this piece off here, then we're going to use the supplied
AUX cable.
So after you've pulled your wire through, you can go ahead and bundle up the excess.
So we're going to go ahead and put that wire tie back on there.
Now, you can leave this rest just right down here, you can tuck it up in there, there's
a couple options.
And then we're just going to run this along with all the other wires right down around
here, and run it to our amp.
So now we're ready to wire our box up.
First we're going to start with our speaker wires.
So, we're going to take our little terminals, we're going to cut these to the length that
we need, then we're going to strip the ends, and then we'll get those attached.
So we're going to start with our left side.
Now, we're going to split our wires in two.
So now that we have our wire in stripped, we're ready to install them in this plug.
Now, you can see on this plug, there's a negative side and a positive side.
So we made the blue our positive.
So we're going to start with that first.
We're just going to insert that into there, and then we're going to use a tiny Philips
head screwdriver to tighten that up.
Same thing with the other side, we're going to insert our wire under there.
Once they're both tight and secure, we can go ahead and plug that into our box.
Now, since this is left side, we're going to go and plug it into the top on, that's
for the left.
Now we're ready to do the other side.
Same thing, we're going to cut our excess off, then we'll split our wires.
I'm going to start with that positive side.
Go ahead and insert that.
Tighten that up.
Then once we have that on, we are going to plug that back into our box.
We can take our AUX cable from our remote base, we can plug that in, and then we can
get started on the backside.
So we're ready to wire up the battery wire, and the amp remote wire.
So we are going to go ahead and do the same thing, we're going to cut these to the length
that we need them.
Get rid of the excess.
And we're going to go ahead and strip the end.
Once we have that off, go ahead and attach our speed terminal.
Once that connection is secure, we can go ahead and loosen up our center pen, and then
we can insert the remote wire into there, and then take that terminal back up.
Now we can do the same thing for our battery wire.
So now that we have our amp all wired up, we're ready to mount it to the floor of the
vehicle.
Now, you're most likely going to do this with a seat in the vehicle.
So you want to make sure that you're sliding it back and forth, and it's not contacting
the amp at all.
So now, we're going to take our four screws, and you can actually just screw these straight
to the floor through the carpet.
So we're almost ready to install our Neo-Pod, we still have to install our speaker, of course.
However, we're going to check under the seat to make sure there's nothing that's going
to come in contact with this Pod.
So we have our seat out here, we're going to disconnect this harness over here, and
basically remove this bracket, so we can clear over the Neo-Pod.
Now, you can do this with the seat in the vehicle.
However, we took it out just to make it a little easier.
So, we're going to go ahead and pinch this right here, wiggle that out.
So we're going to use a T30 Torx to take these two screws out of here.
So with that bracket removed, you should have plenty of clearance underneath the seat.
If you do need to remove any of these, you can always just zip tie them out of the way.
We're going to zip tie this up and out of the way, and then get started on the box.
So now we have our Neo-Pod on the table, we're ready to start assembling it.
The first step, we're going to take our grommet and insert it through the hole in the side.
So next, we're going to take our thick speaker wire that came with our kicker subwoofer,
and we're going to install that through the grommet, and pull that through.
So, now that we have our wires pulled through, we're going to separate these.
And then we're going to go ahead and strip the ends off.
So now, we're ready to wire up our subwoofer, and mount it in the box.
The first thing, we're going to take it, flip it upside down.
Now, this is recommended to wire for four ohms, so what we're going to do is, we're
going to take a small piece of wire, and we're going to go ahead and connect from the positive
to the negative on the opposite side.
Then we're going to do the same thing for this.
We're going to go positive, and then we'll go to our negative side.
So now we're ready to take our subwoofer.
We're going to flip it upside down.
Make sure it fits nicely in this box.
Get all of our wires to tuck in there.
And then next, we want to center this in the box, sort of, line that up pretty even.
And then we'll get our screws, screw that in.
So we have our 8th Phillips head screws.
We're going to use our drill to screw them in.
So now that that's mounted in there, go ahead and install it in the Jeep.
So now that our box is fully assembled, we're ready to install it on the floor.
At this point in time, it's a good idea to check for leaks.
So with everything plugged in, you can go ahead and fire this thing up, check for any
air leaks.
If you do have any leaks around here, you can tighten the screws up.
If you feel any air coming out of there, you can apply some hot glue or wax.
However, we feel pretty confident that our box is good to go, so we're going to go ahead
and get started.
So now are you ready to install your Neo-Pod.
If you decided to keep your seat in, you're going to slide it in through the back, making
sure that all of your wiring harnesses are free and clear.
If you need to move them, zip tie them out of the way.
This is a good time.
I'm going to slide it in through here, wiggle it on through, and then we're going to set
it in place.
This wire is going to wrap around, eventually, we're going to send that under the carpet,
over to the amp.
So, to mount our box to the floor, we're going to slide it up and over towards the driver's
seat as much as we can.
We're going to use our screws that are provided, they're self-tapping.
You need a 3/8th socket.
So with the front screw in, we're going to center the back in between the two legs, and
then we're going to get our screws started.
You want to make sure that there's no wiring underneath when we install our screws.
So now that we have a box mounted, we're ready to run our wiring over to the amps.
So it's pretty simple, you can just tuck it up and around the center console, and kind
of just bring that around.
We can go all the way up here.
And then send that over to our amp.
Now that our wiring is by our amp, we're going to go ahead and split these, pull this apart,
and we're going to strip the ends off, and we're going attach these terminal ends on
them.
So now that both of those are tight, we're ready to attach them to the amp.
First, we're going to undo our screws, go ahead and insert our terminals, and then we'll
tighten them up.
Now, you can just take this wire, and just hide the excess.
And last but not least, before we get ready to fire this system up, we're going to connect
our battery cable to our batteries.
So, we're going to use a 10-millimeter socket to remove one of these nuts and get it connected.
So now that the whole system's wired up, you're just about ready to turn it on.
One thing I'd recommend is to turn all of these settings down to zero, that way you
can fine tune it as you go.
However, that wraps up our Review and Install.
For more videos like this, check us out at extremeterrain.com.
For more infomation >> Bantam Jeep Festival Opens June 8 - Duration: 5:30. 
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