Thứ Sáu, 29 tháng 12, 2017

Auto news on Youtube Dec 29 2017

These Synergy extended brake lines are for the front or rear of your 2007 and up JK,

whether it be a two-door or a four-door, with up to 4.5 inches of lift.

Adding a set of extended brake lines like this is always nice when you have lift on

your Jeep.

You don't have to worry about pulling a brake line taught or breaking one when you're off-road,

especially when you have those sway bars disconnected and you're articulating.

This is going to be something that's very easy to install, a one-out-of-three wrench

installation.

Of course, anytime you open up the braking system, you are gonna have to bleed it out,

which can take a little bit of time, depending on your method, but still very easy, and we'll

talk more about the installation in just a second.

So, even some of the higher-end lift kits that are available will require you to straighten

out the bends in your factory hard brake lines in the front of the Jeep in order to get a

little bit of extra length so you don't pull those lines taught.

I always prefer to purchase a longer set of soft brake lines, rather than pulling on and

bending those factory hard lines.

So, this is going to be something that is definitely on my build list every time I install

a lift kit.

Now, there are a lot of extended brake lines out there.

They're going to be varying lengths.

Of course, the longer ones are gonna be a little bit more expensive.

These ones are gonna be a little bit on the higher side of the price range, even for a

brake line of this length.

If you like Synergy, you like the brand, you trust them, you want something that is high-quality,

I would say, go with these ones.

If you're on a little bit more of a budget, there are some less expensive options out

there, as well, that are certainly going to get the job done.

So, of course, this is going to be a braided, stainless brake line.

It has a Kevlar coating that's going to help make sure that it's not going to rub through

or, of course, burst.

All of the hardware and the fittings that come on these brake lines are gonna be zinc

coated to resist any sort of rust and corrosion.

So, they have a lot of very nice features with them.

They also do come with all of the clips, like I said, and everything that you need to get

them installed.

So, it's a pretty nice set of brake lines.

A lot of people are gonna wanna go with a set of braided stainless lines because they've

read or heard that you're gonna get a nicer pedal feel from a line like this, because

with a rubber line, you get some expansion, which can give you a softer pedal.

And, oftentimes, after you install something like this, you will have a nicer pedal feel,

but a lot of that pedal feel is probably just going to come from the fact that you have

some fresh fluid in the system, you got any possible air out of the system while installing

these, and less about the fact that the stainless doesn't expand.

That very small amount of expansion and contraction that you get from a rubber line isn't really

going to translate that much into pedal feel, however, once you go and get these installed,

you have some fresh fluid, you are probably going to get a little bit of a stiffer pedal,

which is going to be sort of a fringe benefit to installing a new set of brake lines.

So, for the installation, again, very simple, one out of three wrenches.

You'll have to disconnect the old brake lines, both at the hard line up on the frame and

on the caliper itself.

Make sure that you get rid of all the washers.

There may be a washer that actually gets stuck onto the caliper.

You don't want to double up washers.

You can end up with a brake fluid leak.

So, make sure that that surface is nice and clean, and free of those old washers before

you install these new ones.

You'll go ahead and attach the brake line onto the caliper, and also onto the bracket

up on the frame using the new hardware that comes with this kit.

Now, you are gonna wanna pay attention to the way that these bend on those front brake

lines.

If you install them backward, they will hit on part of the axle when you turn all the

way to the lock.

So, just make sure that you take note of how the old ones were oriented and install the

new, longer ones in the same way.

Once the brake lines are fully installed, then it comes to bleeding, and there are a

couple different methods for bleeding.

You can either put pressure in from the top of the master cylinder to push any air out

the caliper side.

You could draw a vacuum on the caliper to pull fluid down, and of course, also pull

the air out.

Or, the tried and true two-person method of having somebody sitting in the vehicle pumping

it while another person is cracking the bleeder to let air and fluid out on the caliper side.

Whatever method you choose, you'll definitely need to bleed out the system, and if you're

just installing these on the front, I would still recommend bleeding all four corners.

You always want to start from the corner furthest from the master cylinder and work closer.

Even though you didn't open up the back of the system, you may have still gotten some

air in there.

Worst-case scenario, you get rid of some of that old fluid, especially that fluid right

near the caliper that's been heated and cooled, possibly boiled, maybe has absorbed some water.

It can't hurt to get some fresh fluid in the system.

So, these brake lines are gonna run you right around $100.

They are gonna be a little bit more expensive than some of the other ones out there.

Like I said before, Synergy has a great name.

They make a very high-quality product.

I have nothing bad to say about these brake lines.

If you are on a bit of a budget, there are some less expensive ones out there that are

still gonna get the job done, but if you're looking for something that is incredibly high-quality,

you like the Synergy name, you're okay paying a little bit of a premium for it, these ones

are a nice choice, as well.

So, if you're looking for a new, longer set of brake lines for your JK, I definitely recommend

taking a look at this set from Synergy, and you can find them right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Synergy Extended Front/Rear DOT Approved Brake Line Kit (2007-2018 JK) Review - Duration: 5:13.

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Jeep Wrangler Smittybilt Bowless Combo Soft Top w/ Tinted Windows (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 5:09.

If you're looking for one of the most affordable frameless tops that we offer on our site,

this Smittybilt combo soft top kit will be just for you.

This is a great replacement top if you're looking for a fastback look, but you don't

need all of that additional hardware that they come with.

This will require the use of a factory header, factory door surrounds, and tailgate bar,

but this will get rid of that big factory bow system.

This can double as a replacement top, or as a bikini top if you would like to remove the

rear windows.

And it has storage options inside, unlike other options that we offer.

This is a quick, easy solution if you need a replacement top and you want to ditch most

of that old factory hardware.

I would like to mention that this will be for the standard wheel-based TJ's and will

not fit the LJ unlimited models.

Install is a breeze at one out of three wrenches, but it's quite lengthy, so I'll get into that

in just a moment.

The material in this top is very similar to the OEM top's material, featuring that black

diamond fabric with marine grade vinyl.

You're also getting 30-mil DOT approved tinted windows that attach around the back with easy-glide

zippers, making them very easy to remove.

Since the top does not require any of the factory bow systems, it's effortless to transform

into a bikini top by simply taking off the back windows.

Now, I would like to mention that because this does not have the factory bow system,

the sunrider feature is not available, and you won't be able to fold this all the way

back like the factory top folds.

However, the top portion is attached by heavy-duty, adjustable hook and loop systems, so it will

still come off pretty easily.

Like I mentioned, this will not include any of the hardware, but you can reuse the factory

door surrounds, factory header, and factory tailgate bar.

This will also not provide upper door skins, but the fabric will match any factory black

diamond door skins or any aftermarket black diamond door skins.

If you need to replace any of those parts, as well as the fabric, I would recommend checking

out our soft top hardware and accessories page.

What I really like about this top is the inside.

There is a storage system with a couple of different pockets and zippers above the front

seats, giving you an easy, accessible and handy place for small items you don't want

floating around in your cab area.

There are even moly style attachments that line the inside of the top, so you're able

to attach any moly style accessories, like military pouches or go-bags, inside the lining.

Like I said, this is one of the most affordable options on the site for a TJ, right now, at

around $400.

With this price, you're getting very good quality that's very similar to the OEM, as

well as some additional options, making this very well worth the price.

We do offer other options on the site that are less expensive, but those options are

gonna be for replacement fabric that will require the factory bow system, for about

$100 less, and they won't have the fastback look.

We have another option that is bowless by Barricade that will be about $10 less, but

the only thing that you're not getting with that is the interior storage pouches, making

the extra $10 pay off in the long run.

To clear up the big price range on the site, a lot of other more expensive options come

with most or all of the hardware needed to install a soft top, as well as heavier duty

material.

Overall, if you're looking for a simple and quick fix that will get the job done, this

Smittybilt bowless top will be well worth the money.

The install on this, like I said, is a one-out-of-three wrenches on the difficulty meter, since we're

just installing the fabric, and this should take you about an hour to an hour and a half's

worth of your time to get everything installed.

First, you have to install the soft top hardware in order to secure the fabric down, or if

you have the hardware already installed, you can move right along to the fabric.

If you are installing the soft top hardware, I would start with the door surrounds first,

and then you can move to the header and then the fabric.

For the header, you're gonna remove the two plastic knobs and the brackets from the header,

and then slide the header into the brief and snap it down.

Next, lay the header on the windshield frame, and then you can secure that down.

Then, you can insert the plastic channels into the door surrounds and pull the top towards

the rear of the Jeep to make the front part of the top over the door smooth out.

Next, you have to wrap the straps around the top of the roll bar and attach the J-hooks.

Tighten down all the straps, and you can install all of the rear windows by zippering them

on and velcroing them down.

Lastly, install the tailgate bar on the rear window and pop it into the retainers.

All these detailed instructions will come in the box with pictures and tips for reference.

So, if you're looking for an affordable fastback solution for your '97 to '06 TJ, Smittybilt

has just the top for you.

This is Meredith with XT.

And you can find this, and everything else Wrangler, right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Smittybilt Bowless Combo Soft Top w/ Tinted Windows (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 5:09.

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Jeep Wrangler Backup Camera How To Install it! 2008-2018 - Duration: 31:26.

Greetings! I'm Geofatboy. The Jeep Wrangler - it's a great vehicle.

Recreational - lots of fun, great in winter, great in summer. It does have a couple

design flaws. In the back here, the vision is very limited from the

driver's seat looking into the rearview mirror facing backward. Someone, children

could be playing behind you someone can pull out behind you and you can't see.

Unless your vehicle has a backup camera. So what I'm going to do right now I'm

going to show you how to install this backup camera. This is a Brand Motion and

my Jeep is a 2008 Wrangler Sahara Unlimited and it has the factory radio

with the navigation built in so I have the camera that corresponds to that to

those specs this is the Brand Motion nine zero zero two eight eight four

seven. There's a look at it. I'll put some links under the video just click where

it says "show more" and it'll take you directly to the cameras and some of the

other products shown in the video. This way if you want to pick up any of these

items it'll be nice and easy! On the outside you have the spare tire which

takes up a lot of vision from the front also the brake light and then you have

these hinges, hinge covers, and the windshield wiper here. Let's open the

vehicle up. Inside you have this windshield wiper cover for the rear

wiper and then you have your two rear head rests which also will block your

vision looking rearward. I'll take you through the whole process removing the

spare tire, installing the camera bracket, and then running the wire all the way

from the back here through the subwoofer, along the side, behind the dashboard, and

then into the factory radio. I'll also show you how to chirp the OBDM module

to activate the rear view camera on the factory radio. Here's everything the kit

comes with. This is the mounting bracket with the camera and then this little

bracket is adjustable here there's two nuts in the back you can adjust this so

you get proper vision out the back through your tire, through your rim, and

this will go alongside the vehicle from the rear all the way up to the front.

Once you get to the front that will plug into this power harness.

This is the 22 pin white connector with the RCA jack this is what will plug into

the factory radio, and this is the program module, this is what you'll plug

into your OBDM port and this will chirp or beep the horn in order to

program it to your radio. It says down here: not returnable if seal is broken so

I'd be sure that before you open this seal you're going to keep the product

and use it. It also comes with about 15 black zip ties and a an extension

bracket if you need it for the camera, and then these are three wheel spacers

that will go on the spare tire. There's always a little bit of nervous anxiety

before you start a project like this don't worry that's a good thing. As Rob

Schneider says: "You can do it!" Don't worry it's not that difficult. Its

time-consuming just I'll say this that I looked over the Brand Motion

instructions that come with the product and they're really not up to par. These

pictures look like they've been copied 50 times, they're black and white,

and it's really hard to see what's happening in these pictures. So we're

gonna go through this process I'm gonna put some good light on it and try to

show you everything to make it much easier so you can just follow along with

the video, do what I do, and complete it in a few hours. Oh by the way this

product the camera I have it does have the parking lines, the guide lines which

will guide you when you go into reverse. So every time you put your car in reverse

and you can see behind you, and if you feel nice and safe, you could say "Thanks

Geofatboy, I appreciate your help on this one!"

All right let's get started. The first step will be to remove the spare tire. if

you have a locking lug like this one you'll need the key for it. We'll start

with that.

Now that the spare tire has been removed you can install the bracket now. It says

on the instructions do not run the cable through the center of the bracket you

don't want it going through there and I could see why, if you go to remove your

wheel at a later date and you drop it off you're gonna chop the wire in half.

So you don't want to run it through there. You leave it up here for now. Now

let's open up the back door and remove this trim panel. I have a steel scraper,

they call for a plastic scraper but this is a metal scraper I just put

some painter's tape over it to protect the finish. So you can see what you have

here. Here's a spot where you can bring the cable through this round circle.

Let's see how we can get it through there. The bracket is on, it's loose but

it's on here. Let's unravel all this so we can fish it through. There's an

opening here where your taillight wire comes through that's where you want to

drop it through again you don't want to put it through the center of the bracket

here. This has a shroud over it, a plastic shroud, wire loom to protect the wires

from the elements outside which is good. So I've got the bracket here, cable

comes around, and I'm sure this will need to be adjusted later but I'm just going

to straighten it up for now. I presume it will be straight just like this.

So I'm just tightening that gently not all the way yet, it may require a little bit

of adjusting later. Okay the cable is through here now we want to take this

end and get it through the vent. There's a plastic vent inside here we want to

fish it through there to get it inside the rear compartment. I've got a piece of

stiff wire here that I'll use to fish it through the back door, you can use a coat

hanger, just cut it and use that. Now I've got the wire, the solid wire through the

air vent and into the back of the vehicle the back door. I'll form a hook on the

end of this wire just loop it around like that and then I'll take the end of

the cable that goes to the front and just loop it through here like this and

tape that up.

Now I'll fish this wire through it's a little tricky doing this, you want to

push and pull at the same time gently so that you can wind your way through the

obstacles that might be in there. Okay I've got it through so now I'll pull all

this wire all the way through to the inside. So the cable goes from the

bracket right here. Here's the camera eye. It goes from the camera, it's inside this

wire loom, and it goes down in there, and you can see the bracket inside there are

the plastic air vent. So we're inside there. Here's a look from the bottom and

there's the cable you can see it right here. It goes through that plastic vent

it comes out this hole right here and it's going to follow this factory wiring

across here, through the subwoofer, along the side and up to the front. The next

move is to take this cable and fasten it to the factory wiring so we'll use these

zip ties. We start on this end we'll get it just about where we need it and you

just slide it through the slot and pull tight these will only tighten one way.

I'm leaving it loose for now that first one, and we'll put another one here in

the middle.

Okay so it'll just follow that. You can tighten this up. Make sure that the wire

is snug coming through there. All right now with these zip ties, here's a trick

if you cut these, they're really sharp and you can cut your hand very easily on

the sharp edge. If you just grasp it with the tip of your lineman pliers and twist

it and just keep twisting till it breaks off the end is not sharp so if you rub

your hand against it you're not going to get cut. We're out of the woods back here

so we can reinstall this trim piece. Okay now we'll move on to the rear

compartment. Now let's remove the subwoofer. There's three bolts: top left,

bottom left, lower right, and let's pull back the subwoofer okay so you can see.

We have wiring here which is what we want to follow coming in and

there's wiring here so we'll get on the same path with these wires and take them

all the way to the front along the side here. Here's a look at the wiring. Some of

these connectors are quite thick, you could think about running them through

this but I don't believe this is thick enough to handle these wires with these

connectors so I'm gonna fasten it to the outside and run it along here following

the factory wiring from the subwoofer and the rear lights to the front along

the side along the right side of the vehicle. You can peel back this carpeting

so you can see these, find these wires, you can see where the factory wire comes in at.

So here's where we'll just follow this around and up to the front. When you

fasten these wires, make sure you leave a little bit of play so that when the

door swings it's not too tight. You need some slack in there. Here's the factory

wiring that we'll be following we're gonna fasten to this to get all the way

to the front. I tuck it underneath so you can't even see it, it'll be hidden that

way. Now we can twist off our zip ties.

Here's a look at the wiring. It comes through the plastic trim plate. I have it

zip tied to this existing factory wiring. It makes a loop here. Again - make sure you

leave enough so the door can open and close. And it follows this factory wiring

right here, and then attach it to this wire loom with the zip ties and we'll

work our way behind this carpeting all the way up to the front. So you can

replace your carpeting now. And then reinstall the subwoofer.

Before we go any further up towards the front let's finish off the back. There's

three of these push nuts they're called, or push washers. What they do is they

just retain, their like retaining washers. They keep the bracket in place. So let's

install those. And I think a good way to do it is just start it like that. Just

get it so it's on there, because these are really tight. They don't thread on

but if you can push them on hard enough they can at least get started up there.

And I think this might work. I have a rubber mallet and this is a 5/8 deep

well socket. Let's try and see if we can get them to go in that way... Perfect!

It goes in almost all the way, it will take a little bit with a screwdriver.

Just to seat them all the way, you can use a screwdriver. We can tighten these

nuts. it's a phillips screwdriver in the front

and it is a 3/8 nut in the back. So just hold that nut and tighten this down so

that they're nice and snug. Now we can reinstall the spare tire.

You can see that the spare tire is now mounted and directly through the center

hole the camera protrudes and it's sticking out a little bit but I think

that's good because you want it to be able to look down and see something

that's close to the rear of the vehicle. I just want to remove this paper. It kind of

draws attention to it. We don't want that. We want it to be unobtrusive, not as

noticeable, inconspicuous. so there we go we're done in the back and the side.

We'll work our way to the front now.

Here's a better look at the camera.

Here's our wire coming along the rear. We're going to pull up this carpeting,

and we're going to fasten it to this factory wiring harness and get it past

the rear passenger seat. Now we can remove our zip ties. So here's the wire

that follows the factory wiring loom right along here, and it's zip tied

to the loom so we can replace this carpeting. Put it back in, we've got it

all the way down to the side of the passenger seat. Okay here's the side of

the passenger seat and you can see that the carpeting is here and the wire is

tucked neatly underneath, the carpeting comes all the way down here and here is

where it comes out. Now we're working our way up into the front driver's

compartment. So we need to remove these tabs this tab right here, that one, that

little black tab. This one and this one. So we can remove that and run the cable

through there. I'll remove this tab here this is by the rear passenger seat.

Okay I was able to get the bracket off here, and then the two up in the front.

I'm gonna enlist my solid wire again and use it as a fish to come back here

and get these and pull them up towards the front. I've got the cable tied onto

the solid wire. I'll pull the rest of the wire through towards the front. Close

this back up. Okay now we've worked our way up from the backseat area to the

front seat area here's the plastic strip trim strip. It's pulled away and then you

can see the wire loom that's where our wire comes through from the back going

up toward the front so we just need to get it from here up into the front

compartment underneath the dashboard. I have these left over from replacing a

couple of bicycle tire inner tubes these are perfect for sliding under here, but

you can use a scraper as well and just slide it along here. I've got it pulled

away far enough where I can just run the wire through there and up to the front.

Now I'm pulling the wire along the front door panel up to the front underneath

the dashboard.

You've got it all the way up here to the very front right, as far to the front as

I need to go, right next to the factory wire loom. Here's the wire. I found

a little soccer ball underneath the trim. It's amazing what you find! Pop those

back in place. Those are good to go. Now we're ready to

attack the front dashboard area. Now I'm in the front of the vehicle, we're gonna

remove this portion of the dash so we have access to the back of the radio so

we can complete the wiring that needs to be done there. So take the plastic insert

tool and start up at the very top. Just put it behind there and pry across and

slide like that and just pick up on this area and then bring it all the way up

and pull forward and you can see that there's a little wiring harness here I

don't think we need to remove this we don't have anything to do there but that

does expose these bolts right here. Two bolts one on the upper left

upper right of the radio. Now we'll come down to the bottom. Take the plastic

insert and this very bottom plastic plate that's right below the 12-volt

power outlets. I'm using the flat scraper on this one.

Move that out of the way and that exposes the other two bolts down at the

bottom here lower left and lower right. Now let's remove the four screws upper

left. It's an 8 millimeter screw. I'll place them in the cup holder so they

don't get lost. Then there's two down here at the bottom. Okay now we will pry

off from the top.

Now I'm gonna put the key in just so I can put it down into low one so I can get

some room to pull this away.

So now I've got this turned off to the side it's out of the way. We can get to

the radio we're gonna remove these four bolts upper left upper right lower left

lower right from the radio and set those in the other cup holder. I should be able

to pull the radio out now alright okay. We've got it out far enough where we can

see what we're doing back here which is great! Now I will bring the wires up from

the lower area to behind the radio. I'm going to remove the glovebox, all you do

is push in and squeeze. There's a couple of tabs that lock in

so once you get beyond that you can pull it right out. Now we'll work on getting

the wires from the lower portion through behind the glovebox, to the radio area.

Okay now connecting the wires. You have the power harness which is right here.

It's got a yellow and black jack on it and this yellow one but then the power

wires are black and red you have one black wire, one red wire. And then you

have these two power outlets down here. This one is labeled "power outlet" this

one doesn't have any label on it. You want to use the one on the left. On the

back of it there's a wire that's blue with the red stripe and then there's a

black wire with a white stripe. So you want to connect the red wire from this

power harness to the blue wire with the red stripe as I did right here. And then

you want to connect the black and white wire to the black wire from the power

harness. What I did was I snipped the wires to cut them in half and then I

stripped them back and I used this barrel type connector this is a Sta-Kon

or Panduit is the company that makes it. It's just hollow and it has metal on the

inside. You slide the wires, I twisted the three wires together, and slid them inside,

and then I crimp it with this pliers.

Just put it in here like this and for insulated you just squeeze it down and

that will crimp it. And it's a nice mechanical tight fitting for those wires.

Better than using a wire nut. So that's the back of the power outlet, we'll just

plug that back in. And we're going to reassemble everything. This is the

chassis harness, this is the one that comes from the camera. This goes all the

way around from the front, to the side, to the back, and that attaches to the camera.

So you're going to take this one and you're going to plug it directly into

the power harness that you just spliced into the back of the 12-volt outlet. And

then you're going to plug the yellow to yellow and you're going to plug the

black to black just like that. And then you will take this remaining yellow wire

it's the one that's longer. These two match up, they're the exact same size.

They go together like this and I'm going to tape these together so they don't

come apart. And you'll take this yellow one, and plug this into the 22 pin white

connector which is right here. It has a black connector on the end of it so you

connect that like that. I'm going to tape this up as well. Then this 22 pin

connector will plug into the back of the radio. I've got everything plugged in. Now you

want to go ahead and reassemble everything in the reverse operation of

how you disassembled everything. The way you took it apart you're gonna put

it back together the same way. Here's the back of the radio. Here's the white pin,

the 22 pin connector. It's got the black and red wire coming off of it with the

RCA jack. On the other side there's the RCA jack

plugged into the the black connector, and I just put tape on it so it doesn't come

apart. And then down here is your cigarette

lighter the back of your power outlet.

With the black and red wire attached. Now you can reinstall the four bolts on the

radio: one, two, three, and four, down at the bottom. Tighten those up. Okay those four

are tight. Now we install the instrument panel. So again, the wire goes along the

floorboard here, and it comes up underneath in here. Here is my wire, this

one, so it comes out of the corner and then it goes up behind the glove box,

to the back. I have it twist tied to

the wires, the existing wires up here. I

have it tied to those wires, and then it goes up in the corner, and it comes out

behind the radio. You'll find hollow spots where you can fish the wires

through. There's plenty of little spots where you can sneak through. Now you can

go ahead and reinstall the glove box. It's got two little hooks on the bottom

here that fit onto these little round points here. And then it just rolls

upward, and squeeze the sides and it latches the two little protrusions, they

will latch behind. There you go okay now it's the moment of

truth! We're gonna open this up. It says not returnable if seal is broken but

we're gonna do it. We have faith that we installed everything properly. So I'm

going to open this up and remove this. This is what will flash or program the

factory radio to accept the reverse camera. And remove this, another sticker

it says warranty void if removed. And I'll remove that. So I have the module

here. What I'll do is turn the key on, you don't start the car, but you

turn it all the way to the position right before start. Wait for all the

beeping to stop and all the chimes to stop. Then you take this module and you

plug it right into the OBD port. I've pulled Mine out so you can see it better.

It's right here just line these up and the horn should honk. You plug it in and

leave it in until you hear the honk. "Beep Beep" There you go! You heard the honk now you

can pull it out.

Now we'll test the system. Okay let's start the car and test it.

Step on the brake, put your parking brake on, step on the brake and put it in

reverse.

Oh! look at that! Beautiful! I can see behind me, and I can see the guidelines

on both sides. It's a thing of beauty!

Success, the sweet smell of success, don't you love it?!

It takes about one second to kick in but you can see back there which is really

nice.

Here we are looking from the exterior of the vehicle. Here's a look at the camera.

You can see it hiding in there. It's pretty inconspicuous you have to kind of

look forward to see it which is good.Okay now we're gonna do another test.

We're gonna show you how the reverse backup camera works in this 2008 Jeep

Wrangler. So my assistant is going to place it from park into reverse. All

right go ahead. (Assistant) "Tada!" look at that. look how cool that is.

It's a lovely snowy day in Chicago, and you can see grid lines

behind for parking, and a clear view of the vehicle behind us.

Excellent thank you very much, I hope this video helps you save some time when

you go to install your backup camera, and by the way if you ever need any shaving

supplies check out ShaveNation.com. I'm Geofatboy. Thanks for watching. Have A

Great Shave, Have A Great Day! (Assistant)- Adios, peace out!

As I said before I'll put some links under the video.

Just click where it says "show more" and if you want to pick up any of the items,

the cameras and other things shown in the video, the links will take you right

to the product so it's nice and easy. I'm Geofatboy. Hope you enjoyed the video

and i hope it helps you install your camera. Thanks for watching, we'll see you

next time!

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