The Roughing Gouge is a robust tool, with which we primarily deal with lathe pieces
The sharpening angle is about 55 °
but it may vary depending on your personal taste
since the exact angle is the one on which you are comfortable with , But 55° is a good starting point
Sharpening can be done with the extensible jig by gently rotating the tool
or laying it flat on a Bench Grinder Tool rest at the correct Angle 00:01:48.00,00:01:55.00 The center marked on a trunk is accentuated with a few shots of Mallet on the Nail Punch.
Or even better with a Drive Center
And placing the trunk between the Drive and the tailstock
And adjust the toolrest about 10 mm. lower than the line between the two tips
We begin the roughing operation by supporting the Gouge on the Toolrest
keeping the handle low, ensuring that the heel touches the wood
Then Gently raise the handle until the gouge begins to bite the wood
The lathe speed is around 1000 rpm.
Now tha we have removed some wood, we move the toolres closer to the workpiece and continue with the roughing down
When the piece has a cylindrical appearance, we can increase the speed at 2000 rpm
Remember to keep the toolrest always close to the wood
Now we mount a green branch on the lathe
Roughing green wood is much easier and more enjoyable
And less Dusty
After the green wood we turn a square with sharp edges
Be careful, before turning on the lathe, make sure the wood does not touch the toolrest
Leaning the Gouge on the piece, the ticking tells us that the wood is not perfectly cylindrical
One last tip
It's Advisible not to use a Roughing Gouge To rough-cut a square block of wood But preferably a Bowl or Spindle gouge
The Spindle Gouge has a shallow flute.
And are used on end grain wood and for turning coves and Beads.
The detail gouge is a variation of the Spindle Gouge , But has a sharper tip
Here it is caressing the wood to give it a smooth finish
Retouching a deform Tenon
and the Lip of a Bowl
Before use, it is good practice to resharppen on the grinding wheel
Here are the details of the tip after the sharpening operation
Let's look at it forming some coves and Beads
After forming the grooves with a bedane, we lower the heel of the Gouge with the wings upwards
With the hell rubbing we turn the gouge gently and begin to cut with the left wing just below the tip
In this case, the tip should not be used
Let's then round the left side of the cove to the second Bead
To shape the cove we begin cutting with the wings turned the right, at 3 o'clock, and using the tip this time
Then, lifting the handle and turning the gouge, we start the cut it with the wing
We complete the half cove cut finishing with the wings at 12 o'clock, then begin cutting off the other side
The pencil mark in the center is left until the end as it indicates the center of the bead
And we continue with the Next cove
And Finally, we deal with end grain
Here the gouge position is almost horizontally , as we start the Cut the handle is lowered .
As you can see with end grai wood, the hollowing direction goes from the center to the outside.
The Bowl Gouge is more robust and rigid and is recognized by the flute being deeper
Can be sharpened in the traditional way with slightly backward wings,
or figernail shape with longer wings,
or irish grind with wings even longer
For the last two types of sharpening, however, a Jig makes sharppening much easier,
The choice is subjective, here, Antonio, in fact, uses a Grind with wing only slightly ground back
A special sharpening is the double bevel, seen here, very useful in digging bowls.
This instead is a 10mm Gouge sharppened with a single Bevel
Here We shape the outside with a 13mm gouge.
Always with the same gouge we start hollowing
while the dust collector nozzle removes much of the dust
Notice the wings of the gouge facing right as the digging proceeds from the outside to the inside
and we continue with the wings on the right and cutting with the tip
To finish the bottom of the bowl we replace the gouge with the 10 mm.
and proceed in the same mode, that is, wings on the right
Now we show how to finish the outside of the bowl with 10 mm gouge.
Next we finish the lip
Finally, we finish the inside, remembering to keep the wings to the right
Finally, we remove the tenon and finish the outside.
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