Auto news on Youtube Sep 30 2018

Small road trip.

In a french forest.

With a JEEP WILLYS.

Now I m sitting on The Jeep.

This is the one made from American during the second world war.

It engine and all other parts are absolutely original.

A nice sound.

In immersion as in 1944.

This old lady played to us the "broken-down car" trick, in a full descent.

Thank to watch and see you soon for a next episode of a vietnamese woman in France.

For more infomation >> France - French Forest - Road trip with a JEEP WILLYS - 37 - Duration: 2:59.

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Jeep Wrangler JK JKS Jspec 3.5" Lift Kit (2007-2018 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 1:01:06.

Hey guys, today I'm here with the JKS Jspec 3.5-inch lift kit fitting all 2007 to 2018

four-door JK Wranglers.

So this is gonna be for the JKU owner looking to comfortably fit a 35-inch tire in your

wheel well, without sacrificing on-road ride quality.

So if you're looking for a high-quality lift kit to get your JK ready to conquer the trails,

this kit by JKS will be a great option to take into consideration.

So there're already a ton of different lift kits to choose from on the page right now.

And trust me I've been there, I've done that, you want to choose a great lift kit that's

going to be the best one for you and your JKU.

So a 3.5-inch lift kit is just in the middle ground between getting good flex and being

able to conquer those trails while still maintaining a good height for some good drivability while

you're out on the street.

So this JKS kit will accomplish both of those and still give you an aggressive stance to

your JKU while coming with all the components that you need to install this including your

coils, your shocks, a front adjustable track bar, and quicker disconnects as well as all

the brackets to accommodate for that lift.

So this won't come with lower control arms, adjustable control arms, or even drop brackets

in order to correct your caster and pinion angle.

However, the silk does come with some ham washers to adjust your caster but I still

highly would recommend an alignment after installing this kit.

So as four tires go 35 like I mentioned will fit very comfortably, fill up the wheel well

and look very good on this while still maintaining some good flex room.

Thirty-threes will look a little bit small, however, you are gonna get the most up travel

with those.

And as for 37s go, you will be able to fit those on there, however, if you're not running

a flat fender, you won't have much room for flex and up travel at all.

So because this is a quality kit with quality components that will speak in the price just

being south of $1,200 at the moment.

So there are other less expensive options on the page, however, some of those will have

a rougher ride and sacrifice your drivability.

And they may not even come with components that will come in this kit like a front adjustable

track bar, they may not even come with shocks, and they may not even with adjustable sway

bar end links.

Personally, I think JKS is a very high-quality brand.

They make really good components that will last a long time and that is something that

you wanna definitely take into consideration while you're looking for components to swap

into your JK, that directly affect your performance as well as your drivability.

So install is gonna be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, this is

nothing for the average person to tackle.

If you don't have any experience with suspension work, I would take this to a trusted mechanic.

I would like to mention that you will need exhaust spacers if you do have the 3.6 liter

V6.

If you have the 3.8 then you will not need the exhaust spacers to accommodate for the

lift and I also, again, would highly recommend an alignment after installing this kit.

So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.

The tools that I use for my install today were an assortment of impact wrenches, a drill,

an assortment of screwdrivers, a trim removal tool, a center punch, a pair of vise grips,

an adjustable wrench, an assortment of pry bars, a dead blow, a hammer, a torque wrench,

an assortment of wrenches, an assortment of ratcheting wrenches, a tape measure, an assortment

of ratchets, an assortment of extensions, an 11/64-inch drill bit, a 5/16 inch drill

bit, a step bit, a knockout tool, blue thread lock, safety glasses, and an assortment of

sockets and swivel sockets.

So first things first, you need to get your Jeep up on a lift or up on jack stands, and

chalk the front or back wheels.

If you do have it on jack stands and then we can remove the wheels with a 19-millimeter

deep socket and an impact wrench or a regular ratchet.

So what I'm gonna do next is just take off this splash guard so we have a little bit

more room to work with.

So I'm using a trim removal tool and I am just going to pop these off.

So you also have two on the back that are holding in the tabs here.

So next thing we are going to do is support our front axle because we are going to lower

it to get all of our suspension components out.

So I usually like to put it in this little nook over here next to the control arm.

Just gonna raise it up and keep it level.

So we're not actually gonna be pushing up on the axle and jacketing axle up.

We're just gonna be resting our pull jack against it and this is going to just brace

our axle when we're ready to lower it down when we're moving some suspension components.

Now we can go ahead and move over to the sway bar end links.

So first, we're gonna remove the bottom bolt.

I'm just gonna be using an 18-millimeter deep socket, an 18-millimeter open-ended wrench.

So you can use an impact on the other side, we're just limited here because of this track

bar bracket.

Take that one out, then we can remove this top bolt with an 18-millimeter deep socket.

So we do the same thing on this side, we can remove that bolt.

So now we can remove this top nut to fully disconnect our sway bar end link.

I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter open-ended wrench to hold this ball joint socket over

here, and then I'm going to use the same 18-millimeter deep socket to remove this nut.

So after we have our sway bar end links disconnected we can disconnect our track bar.

I'm gonna be using a 21-millimeter socket and an extension to clear our drag link here,

we're just gonna remove that.

So after you've spun this and remove the flag nut, these can be a pain in the butt to get

out.

What I did is just took a pry bar.

There is a little pass-through over here so that will push that out and then we can just

pry the bolt out from there.

So we got it out enough to hit it with the impact gun and unthread it from where it's

sitting.

So as you can see the whole axle shifted left.

That is okay as long as it's supported and that's why we did support that in the first

place.

So what we're gonna do since we are actually replacing this, we might as well just disconnect

the whole track bar.

Since we are disconnecting the whole track bar you are gonna remove this top bolt here

that's holding in the top of our track bar.

You're going to be using a 3/16-inch wrench to grab this or hold this nut on the other

side and the same 21-millimeter socket to remove the bolt.

So now that we can move our track bar around and there's no pressure on this bolt, we can

simply remove it and remove our track bar.

So our next step will be to lower our axle, however, I don't wanna stress out our brake

line so what we're gonna do is take a 10-millimeter socket and just remove those brackets.

And we will be putting on different brackets as well.

Oh no, that's just connected, just keep that there.

We're gonna do the same thing on the other side.

So our next step is going to be to remove our shocks because this is limiting our axle

so we can't actually drop the axle just yet.

So I did stick a 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench over this top stud here.

There is a nut up there, it is pretty hard to see, and then you can take a 16-millimeter

open-ended wrench and put that on this right here.

That's going to prevent the shock body from actually moving and what I like to do is just

rest this here since it is pretty solid on there.

And it will press up against the chuck tower[SP] here.

Now we can remove the bottom bolts, the bottom shock bolt with an 18-millimeter wrench and

an 18-millimeter socket.

You can completely remove your shock.

So now we're gonna do the same thing on the other side, starting with the top shock nut

and bolt up here with the 16-millimeter ratcheting wrench and then a 16-millimeter open-ended

wrench.

So now we can take off our bottom shock bolt.

I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter wrench and also since our differential is here, I'm

going to switch it up to an 18-millimeter swivel just to give us a little bit more room.

So to make sure our axle drops low enough to get our springs out and our longer springs

back in, and to make sure that our driveshaft doesn't bind when we do that, we're gonna

disconnect the drive shaft using a 15-millimeter swivel and we're just gonna take out these

four bolts.

You can see it better around the driveshaft.

So as you can see these do have blue Loctite on them, so I would recommend an impact.

If you can't use an impact then I would recommend a breaker bar and making sure that the drive

shaft is not spinning while you're doing that.

All right, so once those are out we can just let that sit there and what we can do as well

is just put these bolts back in here just so we know where they are.

So after the drive shaft is disconnected we're ready to lower our axle and take out our springs.

So you can start lowering that down and I'm gonna just go back and forth between the two

pull jacks.

Try to keep it as level as possible.

See how low we can drop this.

So we tried dropping down the axle and our brake lines did max out, so we are going to

disconnect this bottom bracket with a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench and you just have to remove

this bolt here and there is a tab holding it on the other side.

You can do the same thing on the other side.

So after everything is disconnected, we can start to lower our axle.

So I'm just gonna lower each one at a time trying to keep the axle as even as possible,

just make sure our pull jacks are even and the arms are not getting anything.

So at this point obviously you can see this big gap here, we're ready to take out our

springs.

I just lowered it a decent amount more than what we needed to because we are putting in

longer springs.

So after those are out we can start assembling our front suspension.

So now that we have everything out we're ready to start our installation.

And first, we're gonna prep our spring perch to install our bump stop extension.

So I am just going to mark a center punch hole, we are going to drill and tap a hole

here so that we can attach this and put in our springs.

So you can just take a center punch and just do what I just did, mark the center of the

spring perch, make sure that everything is marked and we can go grab our drill bits.

So after we have that center hole punched I am gonna drill a pilot hole with an 11/16-inch

drill bit, so we can prepare it for our 5/16-inch drill bit.

So after your pilot hole is drilled, we can take that 5/16-inch drill bit and drill that

out.

So out of your J107 hardware bag, you are gonna take your self-tapping bolt and we are

going to put that right in the hole here.

So then you can take a 9/16-inch socket and a ratchet and we can tap this hole here.

So this is going to give us a thread for our longer bolt that we will tie our bump stop

extension down to.

After that is easy to wrap it down, we can remove it.

And that hole is officially tapped.

So before we install our new springs I did want to show you guys a little side-by-side

of our stock ones.

Obviously, you can tell that these are a lot shorter.

This is where you're gonna get all of your lift from and they are actually gonna be a

little bit beefier.

So they are a little bit heavier in weight, a little bit thicker in the coils, so these

are gonna be a lot more heavy-duty than your stock springs are.

So this new JKS spring is a dual rate progressive spring, so you have tighter coils at the bottom

and then you will have the looser and more spacious coils at the top and that's gonna

give you your comfortability as well as performance where your stock springs were mainly about

comfortability.

So enough about our stock springs, let's put in our new ones.

So now we're ready to install our coil spring and you wanna make sure that your spacer is

actually in your coil spring before we go ahead and maneuver this on here.

Around that top bump stop we can go ahead and maneuver it onto the spring perch, this

is where I wanted to disconnect everything and avoid a spring compressor, so let's see

how well that will go.

So now we have to secure down our bump stop extensions here, so we're gonna grab the longer

bolt from the J107 hardware bag with the provided washer and put that through the hole and tighten

that down into the hole that we had tapped.

You can take a 9/16-inch socket and a ratchet.

I also would like to mention that these longer springs will be in the front and we'll use

the shorter springs for the rear.

Then we can move this to be seated correctly, perfect and get our bolt.

So after these srings are in, we can go ahead and move over to the shocks but before we

do that, we are gonna put a little bit of pressure on the springs because they were

moving around, they did have a little bit of space here so you wanna make sure that

those are seated in place, in the little notch here so just check that.

Just make sure that your spring is seated in this bottom channel here.

So now on the topic of shocks, before we put these new ones in, I did wanna just show you

a little bit of side-by-side how these are going to accommodate you better with this

type of lift.

So there are two types of shocks.

There are a hydraulic shock like your stock one that is prone to cavitation which is forming

inside of the shock creating shock fade.

It can leak and they can just wear out very quickly over time.

Then you have a gas charge shock like the Fox Adventure series 2.0s.

These are going to have an internal floating piston to keep the oil and the gas separated,

so that is going to allow a lot of performance as well as be able to take a lot of abuse,

bumps at fast speeds, heavy-duty washboards, while you're out on the trail or racing and

these will have a very long lifespan because of that it's gonna reduce a lot of that shock

fade.

So as well as being durable on the inside and being able to offer all that performance,

these are also durable on the outside compared to our stock shock that you can see, that

it's starting to rust and chip over time and these actually really aren't even that old.

So the Fox Adventure series 2.0 has a two inch clear anodized 6061-T6 aluminum body

with a 5/8-inch chrome-plated, heat treated alloy steel shaft.

That was a mouthful but this basically means that these are going to be durable and they'll

be able to take some abuse on the trail, take a hit on the trail no problem at all.

So we also have Nitrile bushings that we will press in here in just a minute.

Those are gonna reduce any noise, any rattling around, those are also gonna create a more

comfortable ride and have a very long lifespan in comparison to our polyurethane bushing

that you see here is already cracking.

So let's go press in those bushings so we can put in our shocks.

So now we can press in all of our bushings and all of our metal sleeves into our shocks,

just making note that these smaller bushings and these thinner sleeves will be for the

rear shocks like I have here, and then the thicker sleeves and the larger bushings will

be for the front shocks.

Right after that's pressed in, we can grab our metal sleeve and press that one in as

well.

Gonna do the same thing for all four shocks.

So now we can install our front shock absorbers.

So I am just going to place that in the top portion up there, make sure that you have

your Nitrile bushing and your washer.

Make sure that those line up and then you can take your nut and thread that on to the

top up there.

So you can tighten down that top nut with a 3/4-inch wrench or a 19-millimeter wrench.

So I would recommend to put the bottom of the shock in the bottom shock mount, even

just a little bit just to hold the shock body in place.

Make sure it doesn't turn and you wanna tighten down this top nut.

So what we're gonna do next is secure down the bottom of the shock, we're just going

to raise the axle up.

The bushing in there is going to be pretty tight in the mount, so we're just gonna position

it and move our axle upward.

So once that is lined up and sitting flush and everything's lined up, we can take the

stock bolt and wiggle that through to tighten that down.

So after that is secured down there we can tighten that down with an 18-millimeter socket

and 18-millimeter wrench.

Now we can do the same thing on the other side.

So what we're gonna do next is attach our sway bar end link hardware.

We are not attaching the sway bars at this time but I do wanna attach the hardware.

So what you are gonna do is insert your top pin with the rubber bushings and tighten that

down, we'll tighten that down in just a minute.

And then you can take the smaller pin with the tapered end, the bottom pins will be different

from each other and we can attach that to the bottom mount.

So the reason why we're not attaching the sway bars yet is because we do have to measure

them out since they are adjustable.

And we need the Jeep on its own weight in order to do that.

So we're just going to attach the hardware and tighten this down with a 19-millimeter

deep socket and I am going to use a small screwdriver to put through here just to keep

this pin straight while we tighten down our nylon lock nut.

So I'm just using this screwdriver to help me turn it but at the end, we will keep the

hole in a place where we want to be able to access the pin very easily.

Now we're going to do the same thing on the other side.

I would like to mention that this bottom one is flat and that's because of the track bar

and steering stabilizer bracket right here, they actually made it shorter to easily maneuver

the sway bar end link off of the pin here.

So just make sure that this goes on this side, you actually probably won't be able to get

the other longer pin on here, it might be a pain in the butt to do that, so just makes

the most sense.

Then we can tighten those down with our 18-millimeter deep socket and our screwdriver.

So now we can install our brake line drop brackets, so what you want to do is actually

pop your brake line out of here.

I've already kind of bent it.

You can bend it down since they are aluminum lines just stretch it down, you are going

to remove this ABS line from the bracket and disconnect the breather hose from the bracket

as well.

Since those are limited, you just pull that right out of there just a little Christmas

tree.

So you can clip that onto here so you'll be able to maneuver it, we need to just put that

breather hose aside just for a second, pull this ABS line out, let it sit back there and

we can install our drop brackets.

So you can thread in the OEM bolt and we'll tighten that down in just a second.

We do wanna get our brake line all bolted up here.

You're just gonna bend that.

We're gonna straighten that out as much as we can to reach this bottom bracket here.

We are going to tighten this up against the frame rail or the 10-millimeter socket that

we used before.

You wanna make sure that this bolt hole is actually clear in the frame rail because we

have hardware in our 768 hardware bag that we're gonna attach to our breakline in just

a moment.

So we're going to take the bolt and washer and place that through the OEM bracket and

our drop racket.

And then we can take a washer and the nylon locknut they provided us and attach that to

the back here.

So now we can take an 11-millimeter socket and ratchet and an 11-millimeter open-ended

wrench and then we can tighten those brackets down.

So after we've attached the top brake lines, we can do the same thing with the bottom on

that bracket.

So we just have to slip that back into place, it goes.

Once that is back in there we can attach that 10-millimeter bolt that we originally removed.

Then we can tighten that down with our 10-millimeter ratchet wrench.

So what I'm going to do is just shimmy this up a little bit.

I'm gonna bend this tab down so we can attach our breather back onto here, keep that in

place, you're gonna attach the other side onto our shock tower.

And you're all set and then you can move to the other side and do the same thing.

So I'm gonna install our bracket at the top here, take our OEM bolt.

Real quick we're gonna tighten that down with the 10-millimeter socket.

So now we can take our hardware that was provided just like on the other side, stick that through,

take our...make sure we have enough room here to work with.

So we can tighten that down with the 11-millimeter wrench and socket.

So now we can attach this bottom bracket here, you may need a flathead screwdriver or something

to help push the bracket into where you're sitting.

All right, here you go then can line up the bolts and tighten that down with a 10-millimeter

ratcheting wrench.

So for the 2012 to 2018 models, you will need a pack of exhaust facers because the wide

pipe will come in contact with the driveshaft if you don't extend the exhaust.

So what we had to do is remove the two bolts that are holding on the exhaust flange for

the Y pipe here.

Those are going to be very rusted, that is very common.

You may have to use heat and a lot of PB Blaster or any penetrator to get those off, it will

be a 13-millimeter socket.

We have already removed those off-camera because they did give us some trouble, however, we

are going to install our new exhaust spacers.

Now you are gonna be using the shorter one for the driver's side and the longer one for

the passenger side.

So now I'm just going to use a pry bar and pry the exhaust back, so we can fit the spacer

in.

So now we can do the passenger side.

So now with our 814 hardware, we can insert these smaller bolts, these shorter bolts out

of the hardware kit into the driver's side.

This top one may be a little bit hard to access, we will have to pull this pin forward just

a bit so we can tighten it down.

We can take a 13-millimeter socket and tighten those up.

So I will be using a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench on the top bolt just because this is

a tight spot with this crossover right here.

So we can bolt up our passenger side.

So now if you are not installing new control arms we do have to punch out the tabs in order

to adjust our cam bolts.

So we're gonna take a 21-millimeter wrench and a 21-millimeter socket and remove this

control arm so we can you lead to that.

So once that bolt's out, we can pull our control arm out of the way.

So now we're gonna use our knockout tool to knock out these tabs in order to adjust our

caster.

Now we can use a 22-millimeter deep socket and punch out those tabs.

Now we can snap off these tabs and reinstall our control arm.

So now we're gonna do that for the inner portion of the mountain as well.

Cleaned up, this hole here what we're gonna do now is attach our control arm with our

cam-bolt washers here.

Now we are going to put our control arm into place, and these washers are going to be installed

here so this is gonna allow our control arm to move backwards.

So what you need to do is actually move the axle forward so we can get that bolt through.

So once that is loosely installed we can move over to the other side.

So after those are in and set, we can move on to attaching our front drive shaft, however,

I would highly, highly recommend getting an alignment.

This is just to move the control arm back but you still need a professional to align

your Jeep.

So now we can move on to bolting up our drive shaft.

So now we can attach our front drive shaft, we are going to move that back into place.

It shouldn't be difficult at all, then we are going to just thread these bolts in just

one or two threads.

We do have to hit that with some blue lock tape before we can retorque those down.

All right, so we're just gonna hit those with a touch of blue Loctite.

I mean, take a 15-millimeter swivel and tighten those down.

So we are finished with the front for now, so we're gonna move to the back and drop our

axle.

So I have the pull jacks here supporting our rear axle and now we can take out our sway

bar links.

So I'm gonna be using an 18-millimeter socket and extension and an 80-millimeter wrench.

So now we can remove our shocks, so we're gonna start with the bottom shock bolt.

We are going to use an 18-millimeter open-ended wrench and an 18-millimeter socket.

So now we can remove the top bolts that are holding in the two tabs on the top of the

shock.

I'm gonna be using a 16-millimeter swivel and a 15-inch extension.

I am going to remove the left one first, the innermost one first, and then I'm going to

remove the outside one.

The reason I did that is so I can have a hand on the shock so it doesn't fall on me after

I remove the bolt.

We're going to remove the rear track bar bottom bolt with a 21-millimeter socket and before

we lower the axle down, remove our brake line bracket from our frame.

I am using a 10-millimeter socket in order to do that.

You gonna do the same thing on the other side and make sure to keep the hardware, we will

be using it when we drop the bracket.

So now we're ready to lower our axle down, so we can take out our springs real quick.

Let's disconnect our breather hose so we don't stress that out.

We're gonna try to keep the axle as even as possible.

All the oil is down and watch all of our lines, so the 10-millimeter deep socket and an extension

we're just going to remove these two nuts here, just so we can drop our emergency brake

line bracket so we are not stressing those out when we're lowering the axle.

Now we can continue to lower our axle down, save those nuts for later.

So now this is low enough so we can maneuver our spring out, I'm gonna do that for both

sides.

So we're just going to pop our spring, so we are stressing out this line.

Here, we're just gonna take a trim removal tool and pop that off.

All right, so now our ABS sensor is freed up, we may have to move a couple more of those

just to make sure that it is not stressed out when we put our new springs in.

However, we are ready to pop in our springs.

So now we can install our spring with the factory isolator.

While holding those in place, you can lift up the rear axle just for enough compression

to hold those still while we work on the resting tube.

So our next step after putting in our springs is to drill out a hole for our OEM sway bar

links.

So we are going to measure out one and one-quarter of an inch above the center mark of our OE

hole and center punch it so we can drill a 0.5-inch hole for our bolt.

That is one and one quarter, so you can center punch, make a mark.

So I marked a center punch hole.

We're just going to do it a couple more times, make a divot for our stuff it.

Now we're ready to drill.

So now we're gonna drill a pilot hole before we go in with our step bit.

So now I'm going to use a step bit, I marked off a 0.5-inch with a piece of tape just so

I know when to stop but we can go ahead and drill that pilot hole out.

Now you can do the same thing on the other side.

So you're gonna use a smaller drill bit to drill a pilot hole, I'm just using an 11/64-inch

bit.

So we can go ahead and drill that pilot hole.

Now we can install our bump stop extension just as shown, and they're already holes down

here so we are going to take our J106 hardware bag, stick our bolts through and then we gonna

attach our nut down on the bottom.

Get the other one attached and then we can tighten those both down.

So I'm gonna to be using a 13-millimeter open-ended wrench and a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench

to do that.

All right, now we can do that same process on the other side.

So now we're ready to install our rear shock so what I'm gonna do first is install one

of these bolts so we can hook our tab on to it, and then we can hold this in place and

bolt in the other side.

So I'm just going to thread in the bolt farthest from me.

So this side most little the way thread it in, we can put our shock up here, hold that

in place while we thread in the other side.

So we're just gonna keep these loosely installed so when we raise our axle up we can maneuver

the shock body around in order to get it in the lower mount here.

Just gonna do the same thing on the other side here, make the inside bolt first.

Our shock tan on there.

And really whatever bolt is easiest for you to access once it's on there you can do.

So now we're ready to raise up our axle to meet the bottom of our shocks, we just wanna

make sure that these are oriented in the correct position so we can get our bolt through.

Make sure our sway bar links are out of the way of everything.

So I'm gonna put our bolts through, so we can tighten that down with an 18-millimeter

socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.

So what I did was just raise the axle a couple turns so our tabs are sitting flush on the

top of the shock mount.

So now we're gonna tighten those down with a 16-millimeter swivel and a 15-inch extension.

So now we're gonna install our track bar bracket so this will just be placed over the axle

here, you want to make sure that that bottom tab that you just saw is lined up with the

OEM bolt hole.

So we are going to pour the time-being bolt that through, we do have another bracket to

install but we're going to make sure that this is secured so we can bolt on the rest

of this before we put in our riser bracket.

All right, so just to hold on in place, for the time being, we are going to lower this

pull jack, get it out of here since our shocks are holding up our axle right now and we can

grab our other hardware.

So now from our hardware packet J103 we're gonna take our U-bolt and stick that through

the holes here to hold this bracket onto our axle, we're going to take the provided washers

and place those on there and then take our nylon locknut.

All right, while we have our bracket in place and our U-bolt on, we can position our riser

bracket in here and stick our OEM bolt through that and attach our flag nut on the back here.

Before we tighten that down and tighten our U-bolt down, we are going to install the two

bolts that are connecting our riser bracket with our track bar relocation bracket, so

it'll be in the same hardware kit J103 and so this does not interfere with our track

bar when it's in there, we are going to place those bolts facing outward.

All right, I'm gonna do the bottom one.

Those are in, so now we can go ahead and tighten everything down.

I'm just going to start with these two bolts that we just installed.

You're gonna need a 14-millimeter socket and a 14-millimeter wrench and we're just going

to tighten those down.

I'm also using extension because of the depth of the bracket, the top floor as well.

So now we can tighten down this U-bolt bracket with a 19-millimeter deep socket and a ratchet.

So now we can tighten down our OEM bolt with a 21-millimeter socket.

So now we're ready to reinstall our rear track bar, we can place that in the bracket and

take our new hardware from the J103 package, line that up and push that through.

Now we can put the washer and the nut on the back of the track bar bolt.

So now we can tighten down the track bar bolt with a 7/8-inch wrench on the back nut and

then we can use a 21-millimeter socket on the front bolt.

So now we can reattach our emergency brake line to the tub.

So now we can install our brake line bracket in the OEM location with the OEM bolt.

Line up our brake line, tighten our bracket down and take our provided hardware from the

768 hardware bag and bolt that through.

And you can take an 11-millimeter deep socket and 11-millimeter wrench and take that down.

Now again, do the same thing on the other side.

So now we can line up our sway bars and attach our hardware.

So this is the OEM hardware that we're using.

Now we can tighten those down with an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.

So I did tell you guys that we were saving our track bar and our sway bar end links for

last just because we do have to measure them and to get the Jeep down on its own weight

so we can make some fine adjustments.

But I did wanna show you guys right next to our stock components how these are comparing.

So starting off with the track bar, you can tell that this is a lot beefier, it is also

adjustable so you can completely re-center your axle after you lift your Jeep and correct

a lot of that geometry that has to do with your front axle.

Like I said it's also gonna be beefier, it's going to be more durable, it's not gonna bend

or flex when you have heavier tires on it.

I would like to mention that the joints though are pretty much similar to your factory track

bar, a lot of other ones on the market do have an eyelet joint there but that's no big

deal, this is definitely gonna hold up a lot better.

So moving on to the sway bar end links, these are one of the best ones that I've personally

seen in the aftermarket parts world for sway bar end links.

These are fully adjustable, they're going to accommodate for your lifts and this is

the quicker disconnect set.

So if you don't have the Rubicon with the electric sway bar disconnect, these will be

installed over pins that you saw me install earlier.

This is a Sahara behind me so we did do that, all you have to do is pull a pin at the trail

ahead and you're ready to go.

You can store these up and out of the way instead of your stock ones where you do have

to grab a couple tools and disconnect those manually before you hit the trail.

So even with these disconnected, these are still gonna give you some good articulation

and they also have Zerk fittings because they're fully greasable and they will last you a long

time.

But now we can adjust our sway bar end link, so for this kit specifically they do have

to be nine inches from the center to center of the two ends here, and then your track

bar will be 32 and 1/4 of an inch.

So we are going to grab our tape measure and see where we are at now, we're gonna center

our joints door at eight inches.

So we are going to loosen this.

Now we can tighten down our Jenga[SP].

So we're gonna do that on both links.

All right, so those are adjusted and we can move on to adjusting our track bar.

Handed is preset to 32.25-inches.

This was right out of the box so perfect, now we can go ahead and install those.

So now we can install our sway bar links.

Since we installed the quicker disconnect pins, we can just slide those on and slide

our pins on.

If you do have a Rubicon with the electric sway bar disconnect you will have to use the

bolts however it is basically the same process minus the pin.

So we can take a grease gun and grease our sway bar links.

Now we can install our new track bar, just gonna rest it and mount down there and grab

our OEM bolt.

Okay, now we can tighten down our track bar bolt so you're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket

on the bottom one because it has a flag nut on the back.

Now you take a 21-millimeter wrench and a 21-millimeter socket and tighten down the

top part buckle.

So if you are having trouble getting the track bar into place on the other side, you can

put this on its own weight and have somebody turn the steering wheel back and forth to

shimmy it into place.

So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install on the JKS Jspec 3.5 inch lift kit

fitting all 2007 to 2018 four-door JK Wranglers.

For more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.