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I'm Ryan from extremeterrain.com and this is my review and installation of the Condition

Zero Pistol Mount fitting all 2007 and up JKs.

There is a version of this for both the passenger side and the driver side, so you can get whichever

one you are more comfortable with.

Today we are going to talk through the installation of this mount, which is a very simple one

out of three wrench installation.

This bolts directly onto your seat brackets using all of the factory hardware, making

this very easy to install.

We're also going to talk about the construction and a few of the features of this mount.

If you carry your firearm with you on a daily basis, whether it be on an inside the waistband

or an outside of the waistband holster, it can be a little bit uncomfortable to sit in

the driver seat of your Jeep with your gun on your waist.

It can also be a little bit difficult to get to your pistol especially if you carry it

in a location behind you.

So having this mount in place will give you a place to put your pistol where it's not

on your person, that's very easy to get to, but also out of the way.

This is an incredibly well built mount that will fit directly in your Jeep without any

sort of major modification, and it includes the holster, giving you really the complete

package.

As far as the construction goes, this is a steel mount that's covered in a textured black

powder coat finish, it is welded and pretty solid.

Obviously you don't need a ton of strength to just hold your pistol in place, but this

is going to be more than strong enough even if you get in and out of the Jeep, you bump

the mount a couple of times, it's not going to go anywhere.

Again, this is available for both the driver side and the passenger side of your center

console.

On the passenger side it'll give you, as the driver, a little bit more leg room and still

fairly easy to access, but if you'd rather have your pistol a little bit closer to you,

the driver side mount is available as well.

Both are gonna mount directly onto that factory seat bracket and use those factory seat mounting

bolts, so this installation again is going to be very, very simple.

This also does come with a fabric holster, if you wanted to fix your own holster to this

bracket, you can very easily do so.

This is simply a metal plate that you could drill into or clip any other holster onto

if you choose to.

However, again this comes with a holster which will make it really easy, and it does have

a velcro and snap retention strap right up on the top, keeping everything nice and secure

for you but also easy to access.

They also provide this carrying bag here to put over the top of your holster when you're

not using it.

If you wanna keep it hidden, keep it out of sight and keep it out of mind.

This mount does seem to be a pretty good deal in my opinion.

Again, it is built very well, it installs very easily, and it puts your pistol at a

very easy to access location.

It comes with a holster ready to use right out of the box.

So for under $120 I think it's a pretty good deal.

If you were going to make some sort of bracket that would bolt right into place, you're gonna

have a few hours of R&D into this, and if you wanna drill your holster into your center

console for an easy to access location, of course you're going to be doing some permanent

modification, which this does not require.

So all in all I think this is a very good product at a very good price.

As I said before, as far as the installation goes, this is a very simple one out of three

wrenches.

This whole installation will take you less than an hour, and you won't need any specialty

tools, just a socket set.

First step is to remove the front bolt in the seat, using an 18mm socket, remove the

front bolt.

Next step, we're gonna take the provided Velcro we're gonna attach it to the mount to attach

the holder.

We will then attach the mount on this side.

So we wanna attach that right about there.

And then same goes for the other side.

Once we have that on we can go ahead and attach this there.

Wrap these sections around there and now you're ready to install it in the Jeep.

Now that we have the pistol holder attached to the mount, we're gonna go ahead and install

it in the Jeep.

The front hole is gonna reuse the stock bolt.

Condition Zero provides you hardware for the rear.

Start off by reinstalling the front bolt, and using the provided 1/2 inch hardware,

place a washer on the bolt, insert the bolt into the hole.

And then we're gonna go underneath with another washer and a nut.

Using a 1/2 inch socket, and a 1/2 inch wrench, tighten the bolt.

Using the 18mm, go ahead and tighten the front bolt.

Congratulations, you've now completed the install of the Condition Zero Pistol Mount.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Condition Zero Pistol Mount (2007-2018 JK 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 5:49.

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Jeep Wrangler Barricade Roof Rack - Textured Black (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 8:56.

This Barricade roof rack is for those of you that have a 1997-2006 TJ that are looking

for a way to carry more gear in, or in this case, on your Wrangler.

TJs are very small on the inside, especially if you have a rear seat installed, there's

not a lot of room for gear.

So if you're looking to carry some larger stuff or just some more stuff, a roof rack

is a great way to go.

This is going to be a completely bolt-on roof rack, definitely a one-out-of-three-wrench

installation, and we'll talk more about that in just a second.

Roof racks are definitely going to give you a lot more space to carry more gear and larger

gear.

However, if you do some more hardcore wheeling, you're not going to want to have a ton of

weight up on the roof rack that can make your top heavy.

And when you're in those off camber situations, can make things a little bit tippy.

However, if you're running some fire trails, you're getting back and forth to a campground,

or you're using your roof rack on the road, this is going to hold up to 350 pounds and

give you a ton more utility from your TJ.

This is also going to be a rack that's going to be fairly inexpensive when you consider

a lot of the other racks out there.

Now, some of those other racks are going to be a little bit more sturdy, they're going

to have a couple of additional features or have some stuff that's designed to be directly

bolted onto that roof rack to give it even more utility.

This is going to be a stripped down, very simple roof rack, but that also allows it

to be a little less expensive.

This roof rack is made of mostly 2-inch round tubing.

It's going to attach onto the windshield hinge bolts up front and onto the frame in the back.

So again no need to drill any holes in your jeep.

You are going to have to have a non-wraparound bumper installed on your TJ in order to get

those brackets installed on the frame and not have the bumper be in the way.

This does have some crossbars built right into the top of it, of course, that's what's

going to end up holding most of your loads.

They are going to be removable so that you can flip down your softtop or remove your

hardtop from your jeep without needing to completely remove your roof rack.

Some other roof racks will completely be hinged and they'll fold back out of the way of the

top.

This, you have to remove the crossbars to take your top up and down.

It may be a couple more steps but it is going to be a little bit easier to do by yourself

with just one person than flipping an entire roof rack back.

That being said, the thumb screws that come in order to hold those crossbars in place

like to get stripped out, so a lot of people will swap them with something else, just keep

that in mind while you're using this rack.

Now, we're gonna have a member from our install team show you how to get this bolted up to

your TJ.

We're gonna begin our installation by removing the corner pieces from our rear bumper.

You will not be able to reuse these, unfortunately, and that's only if you still have the stock

rear bumper on your Jeep TJ.

We're gonna follow that by removing the hardware from the front door hinges so we can bolt

the uprights in place.

I'm gonna go ahead and remove our front doors just to make installation a little easier,

and so no alignment issues happen when removing the hinges.

Simple as opening your door, disconnecting your strap, and lifting it up off the pins.

We're gonna begin removing the front hardware with the top two hinge bolts, and then we're

gonna move down to the bottom two.

First part of our roof rack to go on is the front upright.

This is gonna bolt right in place over your factory hinges.

Next, we're gonna remove the two retaining nuts from the back of the bumper, get these

out of the way so we can install our next upright.

Now that we got our rear lower in place, we're gonna go ahead and install our rear upper

and our forward bar at the same time because they all interlock with each other.

Now, you're gonna wanna make sure that your upper forward bar is oriented in the correct

position so that the holes for the crossbars are facing slightly downward.

All your tubes will fit really tightly together.

This is a good thing, they won't rattle around.

But you might wanna use a mallet just to get them into place.

Just give them a light tap, that should get them all sitting nice and tightly together.

We're gonna go ahead and install our hardware just to hold our bars together, but we're

gonna install it loosely.

We're gonna go back at the end and tighten everything up.

Now that our one side is done and assembled, you wanna go ahead and repeat all of these

steps for the opposite side before we go ahead and put in our crossbars.

It's the same exact procedure, just to the opposite side.

All right.

Now that our side rails are together and mounted and loosely installed, we're gonna go ahead

and add our crossbars in.

We're gonna begin with the middle one.

Just go ahead and over, right up in there.

Once you got your crossbar set in place, you're gonna go ahead and take one of your longer

bolts with a washer, slide it in from the bottom, then you're gonna take one of these

knobs supplied in the kit, go ahead and screw it down from the top.

Now that all our bars are mounted, we're gonna go ahead and go back and tighten everything

up and snug it down.

This roof rack is gonna run you right around $300 which is going to be a lot less expensive

than some of those premium roof racks that are on the market.

Those premium racks will sometimes have a basket built into them or a basket designed

specifically to go on them.

They will have additional attachment points for lights, for high lift mounts, for jacks,

for axes, for whatever.

And this is definitely going to be a little bit of a simpler design, not have a lot of

those add-ons.

Some of those other racks will maybe be a little bit sleeker looking, they tuck a little

bit closer to the top, have a little bit more style.

This is just going to be a simple rack, this just gets the job done.

And if that's what you're looking for, you can save a lot of money by going this direction.

If you want a few more frills, we have those racks available as well.

So if you're looking for a good, simple roof rack for your TJ, I definitely recommend this

option from Barricade, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Barricade Roof Rack - Textured Black (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 8:56.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Bowless Top - Black Diamond (2007-2018 JK 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 7:53.

This Rugged Ridge Bowless Soft Top in Black Diamond is for those of you that have a four-door

2007 to 2018 JK, that are looking for a soft top that's going to work a little bit differently

from a factory top.

So, when you're looking at soft tops, you're going to have a couple of different choices

to make.

If you already have a factory soft top with a good working frame, you can just get a replacement

soft material, the replacement canvas and windows.

That's going to be your replacement top.

That'll go directly on that factory frame.

It's going to look and act like a factory top.

If you don't currently have a soft top, and you're looking for a factory-style top, there

are complete soft tops that have all of the frame, all of the hardware, and the soft material

that you need to go from a hard top to a soft top.

Again, includes everything, a little bit more expensive.

And then you have options like this.

This is not going to look or function like a factory soft top.

It's going to give you a different look, and a little bit of a different function.

And if that's what you're after, this is going to be a pretty nice choice for you.

However, it is important to know that with this particular bowless soft top, you still

do need a good bit of OEM hardware from your soft top.

So if you don't currently have a soft top, those are things that you're going to have

to piece them together and purchase individually.

So, again, just keep that in mind.

This is going to be a fairly easy install.

Overall, I'm going to give it a one out of three wrenches, probably around two hours

or so to get this installed that first time.

But, again, no drilling, no major modifications to the Jeep necessary, pretty straightforward,

and we'll talk a little bit more about that in just a second.

So in the world of bowless tops, or fastback tops, however you want to put it, there are

going to be varying degrees of functionality.

Some, you can completely remove all three rear windows, giving you that bikini-style

feel.

You can also flip that front section over the front-seat passenger's back.

Some, that section will slide back.

A lot of different features and the ones with more features are going to be more expensive.

This one's going to be a little less expensive.

You can't remove the rear-view window, and it isn't going to very easily flip back in

the front, giving you that almost sunrider-like feature.

So, if you don't need those features, why pay for them?

Go with this option, it's a little less expensive.

If you want them, we have tops that have those options.

They're going to be a little bit pricier, but maybe take a look at the Bestop Trektop

Pro.

As far as construction goes, I do think that this is still a pretty well-built top.

I'm not going to say that it's the same as those top of the line tops that cost almost

twice as much as this, but I do think this is going to hold up pretty well for you.

This is going to be the Black Diamond material that your more traditional soft tops were

made of, even right from the factory.

If you got a soft top on your Jeep, of course, in the later years of Jeep, they came out

with a premium top.

That's going to be a heavier material, so this isn't going to be that.

This is going to be a little bit of that thinner material, but again, still going to wear well,

still going to look good, still going to do the job for you.

The fact that this is bowless means that it mostly attaches onto your support cage, but

it also does attach using the Rugged Ridge Soft Top header across half of the windshield.

Again, that's a piece you have to purchase.

And you'll need some additional pieces from your factory soft top, if you don't have those,

you will have to purchase those.

This top is going to run you $500.

That's not going to include that windshield header that you're going to have to purchase

from Rugged Ridge, and it's not going to include those other soft top components, those factory

soft top components that you need.

If you don't have them, you'll be purchasing those.

That's going to drive up the overall cost of this setup.

Now, I alluded before to the fact that this is maybe about half the price or so of some

of those top of the line fastback tops that have more features, maybe are a heavier-duty

material.

So, there are certainly some options out there that you can spend some more and you can get

some more for your money.

I think that this falls in a really nice range.

It's going to be a little bit less expensive, may not have a couple of features, but it's

still a pretty well-built top that's going to get the job done for you.

So that's where you land if you don't want all the features, you don't want top of the

line, you want to save a little bit of money, forego a few features, I think this top is

going to be just right for you.

This is going to be a fairly easy install.

Overall, I'm going to give it a one out of three wrenches, probably around two hours

or so to get this installed.

Now, I'll have someone from the install team show you how to get this bolted up to your

JK.

Remove metal soft top mounting brackets attached to the roll bar in the cargo area.

If applicable, install new factory surrounds at this time.

Begin installation of soft top to header by looping the top over the header channel and

fastening it with the snaps to the underside of the header.

Slide the soft top assembly to the front of the vehicle, placing the top over the roll

bars.

Attach the header tab to the footman near the windshield of the vehicle, ensuring the

assembly is centered on the vehicle.

Ensuring the assembly sits flush with the top of the windshield on the vehicle, tighten

the plastic knob into the header.

Repeat for both sides.

Pull side plastic retainer over the front door surround and hook into the groove over

the front door.

Repeat in an X pattern for the front and the rear door surrounds.

Pull the two center straps on the inside of the vehicle around the front sport bar.

Hook the clip at the end of the strap to the lip of the circular cut-out in the sport bar.

Tighten the straps.

Pull the two rear straps around the sport bar and through the plastic buckle.

Tighten both sides.

Loop the rear side strap around the rear roll bar moving towards the outside of the vehicle.

Loop the strap under the seat-belt stud then back around to the outside of the vehicle.

Loop the strap through the plastic buckle, and pull the strap tightly.

Begin the installation of the support bows by first inserting from the front of the vehicle

over the center roll bar.

Hook the front end of the support bow into the pocket at the front of the vehicle.

Hook the second end of the support bow into the rear pocket of the soft top.

To install the windows, pull the side plastic retainer of the side window around the door

frame and hook into the groove of the front door surround.

Zip the top side of the window zipper.

Pull the bottom plastic retainer of the side window into the side groove of the body tub.

Zip the rear window to the side windows in rear of the vehicle.

Loop the top corner strap through the plastic holder at the rear corner of the vehicle.

Tighten the straps, and repeat for both sides.

Slide the tailgate bar into the bottom of the rear window and attach to the receiver

on the tailgate.

Fasten all Velcro around the side and rear windows.

Install the metal hook on the end of the top rear strap, into the body tub, through the

cutout in the rear panel.

Tighten the strap, and repeat for both sides.

So, if you're looking for a great quality bowless soft top, I would recommend taking

a look at this one from Rugged Ridge and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Bowless Top - Black Diamond (2007-2018 JK 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 7:53.

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Dodge Repair | Jeep Repair | Chrysler Repair Irvine - Duration: 5:09.

If you live in the city of Irvine, and you need help with a Dodge, Chrysler, or

Jeep, you came to the right place. Chrysler has come a long ways, I got the

little PT Cruiser- Well built, well put together. They've got the Jeep, they've got the

Dodge Caravan! The Dodge Caravan- The Dodge Caravan-

Mercedes actually bought Dodge because of the Dodge Caravan. They were well put

together, very economical, ran a long time, they sold the heck out of them-

So, that attracted Mercedes, (they said) "How can they build such a good car for such a

reasonable price?' Then they came in, and they kind of messed up Chrysler a little

bit, but that's another story. They've been fixing themselves ever

since then. And then we have- Wow, the Challenger! Look at this car- Beautiful

car, that's a real muscle car, everybody wants to be- When they-

When I see a lot of Toyota's and diesel's and all that, what do they want to be

when they grow up? A Dodge Challenger! That's what they want to be when they

grow up! Now, let's talk about my ability to fix your automobile. I've been working

on electrical since the 80s. You can't do anything without electrical. They've got

self-driving cars, self-parking cars, self- They start themselves, they drive

themselves to you, they park themselves, and you name it, they've got it.

Everything's electrical- How are you gonna do it without the knowledge? I am- I feel

sorry for all these shops- and they can't catch up, they can't catch up. It's too

late, too late- Close your business, get out of business, you have no

business fixing cars if you have not been doing electrical and specializing in

electrical and you have the equipment- There's a lot of equipment. This is just

a portion of my equipment. I bought this in the 80s, it's called a breakout

box. This goes between your computer and your wiring harness, and I can simulate

anything- I can simulate TPS throttle position sensor, fuel pressure sensor,

fuel pressure regulator, temperature sensor- Any kind of sensor, I could bypass

it with this piece of equipment. There was another box that I didn't bring out that

actually simulates every part. The guy that invented it was great. This is

actually a 40 something thousand dollar piece of equipment. But, I didn't waste my

money because there's a lot of shops that use that and rented it, and so

it pays for itself. All my friends and all the shops- Everybody in

Huntington Beach, Fountain Valley, in the area- Even Newport/Costa Mesa, they used

to- They found out that I had the equipment, and they would come and rent

it from me and I- When I would hook it up with them,

I would also help them troubleshoot so I kept up with all the problems.

Now, anybody can do a brake job and even that's getting a little bit difficult

because you've got ABS, you've got a lot of sensors, speed sensors, traction control,

electrical in the electrical! So, and then, we went to the regular scanner, but from

the scanner, they went to a laptop based scanner which is a lot quicker, it gives

me more information- The cars are more complicated. You can't just pull a code

and it gives you that kind of converter replacer, you've got to have that converter.

I've got people doing that all the time, "I replace this, I replace this, I replace

this- Francisco, can you tell me what's wrong with it?" You spent two grand

already and your problem was a broken wire sensor? Something like that?

Because everything's communicated through wires, sensors, numbers, and it

just tells you that this is not working correctly but the thing you've got to figure out is why

it's not working correctly. Again, I have a 10 bay automotive repair shop, it goes

all the way to the back. And- So- If you- call me with any of your questions.

You're going to buy a car, you're gonna sell a car,

it's 714-375-2661. You have a car in another shop, "What do I do, they

want me to do this", "How do I maintain the car I got my daughter?", "What's

important to buy a car for your daughter?" Do you want her to get gas mileage or

do you want her to be safe? Do you want to save a few dollars or do you want to

put her in a tank? All my kids were put in tanks, and I mean a tank! They could run

over somebody so that- I had my daughter- A drunk driver pulled out in front of

her, the four people in the Hyundai went to the hospital. My daughter-

I drove over there, I picked her up, the car went in the back of a tow

truck- She was driving a Jeep! she was driving a Jeep and she walked away from

it! So, you want to be safe. My daughter is- She's

crashed two Jeeps, neither one were at fault, but she walked away from both of

them. You've got metal around it! You want metal

around your kids! You want to protect your kids, You want to save money, save

money somewhere else. Turn the electricity off, turn your water off, go

to a garden like mine, but don't save money on a car for your kids. Not because

you want to save five dollars of gas a month. With that said, call me with any

of your questions, 714-375-2661. I stole this

from one of my friends, "I can fix anything except a broken heart". I know, I've

got three daughters. Thank you for watching the video.

For more infomation >> Dodge Repair | Jeep Repair | Chrysler Repair Irvine - Duration: 5:09.

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We Drive Awesome Jeep Concepts in Moab - Duration: 15:20.

Are you ready for that great atomic power?

Will you rise and meet your savior in the air?

Will you shout or will you cry when the fire rains from on high?

Are you ready for that great atomic power?

—The Louvin Brothers

During the peril and uncertainty of the Cold War, the Atomic Energy Commission (AEC), overseer

of the American nuclear program kick-started by the Manhattan Project in World War II,

needed a domestic source of uranium.

The U-238 refined into weapons fuel for the Little Boy and Fat Man bombs dropped on Hiroshima

and Nagasaki had come from Canadian and African sources, and the AEC, understandably, wanted

full control over its supply.

The agency hit on the strategy of guaranteeing domestic miners a very good price for the

stuff.

Enter Charlie Steen and his battered Jeep.

A geologist by trade, Steen figured the northwest portion of the Colorado Plateau stood the

best chance of delivering a strike hearty enough to serve the government's needs.

He spent a couple of years trundling around eastern Utah on a mission, at points living

with his family in a tarpaper shack.

In 1952, Big Indian Wash, not far from Moab, proved his educated hunch correct, delivering

a vein of uranium of exceptional purity.

The strike precipitated a uranium rush in the area, and sleepy Moab boomed while the

area around the town became littered with trails cut to get the suddenly precious heavy

metal out of the red cliffs.

By 1960, it was all done.

The feds had enough uranium to serve their needs, and since the AEC was the American

uranium market, prospectors packed up their Geiger counters and left.

Miners went off to mine other things.

Moab languished.

In 1967, off-roading had hit something of a critical mass.

The Mexican 1000 Rally—the Baja 1000's predecessor—saw its first running, as did

the Mint 400 outside Las Vegas.

Meanwhile, out in Utah, the Moab Chamber of Commerce hit upon an idea.

Why not invite Jeep fans out to drive the Behind the Rocks Trail, a lovely, quite technical

ramble through the state's unparalleled red-rock country?

Fifty-one years later, the Easter Jeep Safari has become the equivalent of Sturgis for Jeeps.

And, like Harley-Davidson at the famed South Dakota biker rally, Jeep has little choice

but to make a real showing in Moab.

Its Easter Jeep Safari concepts have become a springtime tradition in the automotive world,

eagerly awaited even by those with a mere passing fancy for America's dedicated off-road

brand.

Everybody wants to know about the Jeep Sandstorm, because the Sandstorm is a hairball Jeeper's

fantasy come to life.

The pickup-looking concept boasts a stonking 392 Hemi crate engine, a manual transmission,

and a desert-race-oriented suspension developed and fabricated by Southern California's

Off Road Evolution.

It has a hair-trigger clutch, makes desert-bro whuggada-WAAAAHHH!!!!

V-8 sounds, hangs the rear out with moderate applications of throttle, and generally seems

like it'd be a lot more fun to drive if I wasn't more afraid of breaking Jeep's

most slavered-over show truck during the Safari.

Give me some jerrycans full of fuel and an afternoon at Anza-Borrego, however, and I

like to think I'd suck them dry wringing out the boisterous monster.

The J-Wagon is a luxed-up, besnorkeled Wrangler Sahara hardtop trying to front like it's

a Geländewagen.

The good news: The new JL Wrangler is a better-driving machine in pretty much every respect than

the outgoing Mercedes-Benz G-class.

The bad news: The charm of a Wrangler is in its fundamental Jeep-ness, and the coolest

G-wagens are the utilitarian models built for serious business.

Plus, to those scarred by the whole DaimlerChrysler debacle, it could bring up traumatic memories.

The Nacho Jeep, a showcase for Mopar's Jeep Performance Parts accessories, was primarily

a bolt-on affair, but it wound up being one of my favorite concepts to drive.

It highlights the fundamental excellence of the new JL while adding a bit more capability

via a suspension developed in conjunction with Fox, and it features 40,000 lumens'

worth of accessory lighting.

It was tough to look at in broad daylight with all its LEDs in full radiance.

If I have one regret from the Safari, it's that I didn't get a chance to take the Nacho

out at night.

Pointed northeast, I have little doubt the Nacho could've backlit the Wasatch Front

for the good people of Salt Lake City.

A product of Jeep's Kaiser era, the '65 Wagoneer that the company created as a tribute

to the Great American Road Trip, was found on Craigslist, gutted, and then rebuilt as

a rather perfect midcentury fantasy, complete with stuffed dog.

Jeep boxed the chassis and treated the old truck to a new 5.7-liter crate Hemi, a set

of Dana 44 axles, and some modern suspension hardware.

Oddly, trundling along in what Jeep calls the Roadtrip at low speed, the whole experience

felt decidedly aged, with only the controlled damping betraying any hint of modernity.

At low speeds, the V-8 even managed to sound carbureted.

It was only with the throttle at heavy whack that the induction was robbed of the great

sucking sound of a pair of secondaries opening up.

The body still flexed and juddered as I motorboated down the trail, and I sort of shuddered to

think what it would've been like if the frame hadn't been boxed.

Perhaps my favorite Jeep of the lot aesthetically was the Jeepster, a red-and-white choptop

Wrangler with a decidedly American Motors Corporation vibe.

Launched for 1967 during the Kaiser era, the Jeepster Commando didn't last long under

AMC's supervision, evolving into the Commando, with a decidedly un-Jeepy grille, then vanishing

after 1973.

But the modern, concept Jeepster looks sweet, with its two-tone paint handily evoking the

Commando's wagon variant, while the two-door JL platform gives it a wider, more pugnacious

stance.

And dig those Helvetica "Jeepster" badges on the fenders, which say 1970s in a way that's

subtle yet unmistakable.

Driving the thing, however, was a bit odd.

Other Jeeps on the track had tires running in the low teens, pressure-wise, but for some

reason, the Jeepster didn't seem to want to turn.

More than once, turn-in points I'd used in the other vehicles on the loop had me on

a much shallower arc than I'd intended.

I'm not sure what was up, but, hey, concept truck!

It's important to note that Jeep's teams build these vehicles in a matter of months.

In the case of the JL-based vehicles, the rush has been perhaps a bit crazier than normal,

since the new Jeeps just started rolling off the Toledo line in November.

I didn't drive the Renegade B-Ute because, true to the Leeroy Jenkins shout-out on its

front fenders, it refused to cooperate with the plan.

Nor were we able to get into the 4SPEED concept, which was a legitimate disappointment.

Jeep also had on hand the Porkchop and Stitch, two JK-based lightweight, two-door open concepts

built for prior Safaris, and they turned out to be the most fun of the bunch.

The 4SPEED hews to the same ideal as its predecessors, paying tribute to the sort of elemental machines

all too familiar to the prospectors who blazed these trails, but it does so with the aid

of the JL's excellent 2.0-liter hybridized turbo-four/eight-speed-automatic powertrain.

I absolutely adored this powertrain in the full-boat JL Rubicon four-door and would've

loved to experience it in a Wrangler stripped to its essence.

Unfortunately, Jeep's tech guys were still hooking up laptops to it in an effort to get

it to do the things it was supposed to do.

Thus, I didn't get to do the things in it that I wanted to do.

Like steal it.

The next morning, we climbed into new Rubicons and headed off down Behind the Rocks.

I first sampled the 2.0-liter hybrid four-door, then a 3.6-liter V-6–powered two-door softtop

equipped with a six-speed manual.

The long-wheelbase model was equipped with the JL's new power soft top, which opens

like a panoramic sunroof at the press of a button.

Temps were in the low 30s to high 40s.

I opened it anyway, for what is Jeeping without a bit of exposure to the elements?

I painlessly drove up a 36-degree slick-rock mound about 40 feet high, then drove back

down.

The extra torque offered by the electric motor means that slow, steady, even throttle application

is rewarded with a controllable and plentiful application of twist.

Lockers engaged, the stock Unlimited made short work of the climb.

Then I watched a guy in a slightly lifted two-door JK with a manual transmission attempt

the same climb.

It took him a few tries to get up, tires spinning and scrabbling for purchase.

The thought crossed my mind that he might go over backward.

He did not, but I imagine he shaved a few thousand miles off the life of his clutch.

The incident threw the long-wheelbase JL's capabilities into stark relief.

Hopping into the two-door manual Wrangler seemed, for a moment, like a step down.

Until I realized just how magical that 84.2:1 first-gear low-range crawl ratio was (autobox

Wranglers offer a still serious 74.2:1).

In low range, I could knock the fine-shifting trans into second gear, and the Jeep would

practically drive itself down all but the gnarliest of descents.

I have to say, I never warmed to the idea of the JK Wrangler as a daily driver.

Yes, it offered exceptional off-road prowess, but the previous marquee Jeep wasn't particularly

enjoyable to drive on the street.

It needed to be either nicer or more charmingly janky.

While the latter may have pleased a certain subset of hard-core Jeepers, Chrysler probably

wisely chose the former tack, and indeed, the JL is about as good as one could possibly

expect a vehicle with a pair of solid axles to be.

Perhaps even better.

It's a hugely capable rock crawler that one would be perfectly happy to drive to the

store or take on a primarily tarmac road trip.

It's in my nature to pick apart the narrative laid out by manufacturers, slice through the

hype, and lay the truth bare.

In fact, it's a little frustrating when I can't seem to poke holes in their spiel.

And although hard-core Jeepers will no doubt find some headache in the JL that they hadn't

faced with previous iterations of the CJ/Wrangler, the reality is that, out of the box, it's

a wonderful vehicle.

You could buy one, drive it off the lot a week before Easter 2019, take it to Moab,

wheel the pants off it, and have a grand old time.

It's a far cry from the old flat-fender CJ that Charlie Steen brought out here in

hopes of building himself an empire, but you'd be hard pressed to find a more perfect modern

machine in which to discover this phenomenal corner of the country.

Fiat Chrysler's narrative for the Cherokee Trailhawk, however, is a bit tougher to swallow.

Juddering down rocky inclines using Hill Descent Control, with the ABS throbbing like a short-circuiting

Hitachi Magic Wand, was a somewhat unpleasant experience after the sweet, controlled, ultra-low-range

satisfaction of the Rubicons.

Sometimes, low-hanging parts scraped.

It was, admittedly, a tougher trail than we'd think to take a crossover down, and each and

every Cherokee made it back to Moab in one piece.

But as much as Jeep has done to mitigate the inherent limitations of a compact CUV, and

as downright inhospitable as this environment would be to, say, a Honda CR-V or our 10Best

Trucks and SUVs–winning Mazda CX-5, the Trailhawk simply didn't seem to be enjoying

itself.

In contrast, the Wrangler was all too eager to mandate that you hold its proverbial beer

and watch as it made the improbable simple.

If you've yet to make it out to this part of the world, I have but one piece of advice:

come.

State Route 95 across Glen Canyon is one of the best motorcycle/sports-car roads in America.

There's good eating in Escalante.

Kanab's got the set of that Kenny Loggins Live from the Grand Canyon video.

And if you can cruise through Monument Valley without humming the Airwolf theme, I'll

give you three bucks the next time I see you.

There are hoodoos!

And a rock formation that looks like a Mexican hat!

There's hardly a bad bit of Utah, but the reddest parts are flat-out astonishing.

Bring a mountain bike, bring a motorbike.

Bring a 911, bring an RV.

Bring a burro, if you're so inclined.

But if you're into Jeeps, well, they've got a whole town built on the back of one.

That Jeep's still there in Moab, parked up behind Charlie Steen's old midcentury-modern

clifftop mansion.

You can even eat dinner there.

It's now a restaurant called the Sunset Grill.

For more infomation >> We Drive Awesome Jeep Concepts in Moab - Duration: 15:20.

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Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Limited Geel Kenteken | Rijklaarprijs - Duration: 1:06.

For more infomation >> Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 CRD Limited Geel Kenteken | Rijklaarprijs - Duration: 1:06.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge All Terrain Entry Guard Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 3:55.

Getting in and out of your Jeep can really wear on your door seals, especially over a

long period of time, or if you have an older model that's already suffered from that inevitably.

The Door Entry Guard Kit by Rugged Ridge will help with that wear and tear on your '97 to

'06 TJ.

These will protect your door seals from any damage to come, as well as cover up any existing

scratches or any imperfections on your Wrangler.

Not to mention, these will give you some added style points with the treaded face.

And they'll provide some grip when you step on them when you're getting in and out of

the Jeep.

Install on these is a breeze at one out of three wrenches since there's no drilling required.

And I'll tell you more about the install in just a moment.

Unlike most door seal guards, this kit is made of a molded ABS plastic material.

Now you might not think that plastic is the best for taking this kind of abuse since you'll

be stepping on them all the time, but ABS is one of the most common tread piece materials

because of its durability and because of its strength.

The guard is designed to be a tight fit and it really follows all the contours on the

TJ body lines in the door seal.

Like I mentioned before, these do have a treaded face on the front of them giving some added

style to your TJ.

The tread will also be functional since unlike other slick, flat door guards, these will

not be nearly as slippery and will give you some better grip when you're stepping in and

out of the Jeep.

What I really like about these is that there's absolutely no drilling involved, unlike some

other options that do bolt in.

On the back, there's pre-laid, 3M automotive grade tape.

So you can ensure that these aren't going anywhere.

Since there's really nothing much to guard entry kits, mostly all of them are gonna be

very inexpensive.

And they're an affordable solution to covering and preventing any wear and tear.

This kit by Rugged Ridge will be right around the $20 mark at the moment.

We have a couple of different options on this site that will be slightly lower or slightly

higher, depending on the finish.

But these will be the only guards that are made of an ABS material, as well as having

a tread design or some sort of design at all.

Other options will consist of plain metal door guards in both a black or a stainless

steel finish.

And some will also require to be bolted in.

If you're looking to add some style with the treaded face here, and if you're looking for

an effortless install, along with a great fit, the extra five bucks is definitely worth

it.

There's really nothing much to this install, guys, because they just adhere with some adhesive

tape.

So I'd have to give this one a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter.

So before installing the kit, make sure you clean all the surfaces with an alcohol wipe

to make sure there's no dirt that would mess up the adhesion process.

So before you actually commit and put the guard entry on, you wanna make sure that it

fits properly.

So go ahead and test fit it.

And that will help with the aligning process to make sure it's lined up properly.

So once everything's test fitted and it aligns properly, you wanna take the backing off of

the 3M tape.

If you have adhesion promoter that came with the kit, then you can apply it to either the

tape or to the mounting surface.

But if you don't, you can just stick it on and press down firmly for about 30 seconds

to make sure it's holding on.

And then, all you have to do is repeat on the other side and you're all set.

So if you're looking for some added protection with a touch of style, Rugged Ridge has you

covered.

This is Merideth with XT, and you can find these and everything else Wrangler, right

here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge All Terrain Entry Guard Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 3:55.

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Jeep Wrangler Smittybilt High Performance Compressor (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 5:07.

This Smittybilt 2.54 CFM High-Performance Air Compressor is for those of you that have

a 1987 and up wrangler, that are looking for a compressor to air up tires after you're

done wheeling and also to air up other various objects around the campsite.

This is something that isn't necessarily an install at all, so definitely a one out of

three wrenches.

Comes in this carrying case.

Simply hook it up to your battery when you wanna use it.

Very, very simple to use, and we'll talk a little bit more about that in just a second.

So, again, a compressor is something that you can use for a lot of different purposes.

Of course, blowing up a football around the campsite, but what a lot of us are gonna be

using this for is airing up tires when we're done with a day wheeling.

And when we're talking about airing up tires, especially a big 35x1250 tire.

What you need from your compressor is not pressure, it is volume.

You need it to move a lot of volume, and that's what the 2.54 CFM really means.

That's how many cubic feet per minute this compressor is going to be moving.

Now, Smittybilt also offers a compressor that moves over five CFM, and that is going to

be much quicker, obviously, pretty much double as fast at airing up a tire as this compressor

is going to be.

But of a course, that one is gonna be more expensive, it's gonna be heavier, it's gonna

be bigger, so it comes down to what you're looking for on your Jeep.

If you're somebody who's gonna be using this for airing up tires a little less frequently,

you're not into big of a hurry at the end of the day of wheeling.

You're okay with this taking a little bit more time.

You'd rather save the money and have something that's a little bit more compact, great option

for you.

You want the fastest way to air up your tires?

There are probably some other options out there.

Now, another thing you consider when looking at a compressor is whether you just want a

compressor or you want an onboard air system.

And the main difference is how things are mounted.

Again, this stays its bag.

It clips up to your battery when you need it, so it's not really mounted at all.

This as a compressor.

An onboard air system is generally permanently mounted into your Jeep.

It's permanently wired, in some cases permanently plumbed.

In most cases, it will also have a tank.

So, they're gonna be some additional components.

An onboard air system is going to be very efficient.

In most cases, it's also going to allow you to run air tools should you need them on the

trail.

So they are gonna be a little more comprehensive and also a little bit more expensive and much

more difficult to install.

So, obviously, different flavors there depending on what your needs are for your Jeep, how

you're gonna be using it.

Overall, I think that this compressor from Smittybilt is going to be priced pretty fairly

for what you're getting here.

Again, you can spend more.

You can get something that moved almost twice the amount of air as this one does.

If you're interested in that, we have that as well.

But for what you're getting here, I do think it's gonna be pretty fair.

So as far as the construction goes, like I said before, this doesn't really get mounted

in the Jeep at all.

This is going to be something that lives in this carrying bag, which is very convenient.

You simply pull it out and attach it to the battery when you want to use it.

It has a 10-foot power cable so you can move the compressor around a good bit, but you're

also going to have this airline here, this coiled airline that is something like 12 feet,

so that's gonna be nice and long.

You're gonna be able to reach all four of your tires without any sort of problem between

the electric cable and the coiled airline.

What you have here is an end that goes on either the coiled airline or you can attach

it directly onto the compressor here, and that's going to have a pressure gauge on it.

So, that's gonna tell you exactly how full your tires are, and it's also going to have

a little deflater on the back in case you go a little bit over-pressure or, of course,

you can use that for airing down if you choose to.

So, a very complete kit, does come with this carrying case, and it's definitely going to

get the job done, moving a good bit of air.

Again, 2.54 CFM.

Now, another important thing to remember is that that 2.54 CFM that this compressor moves

is going to be at zero PSI.

So as your tire pressure does come up, it's going to be moving a little bit less volume,

again slowly down a little bit.

This is going to get the job done, but it's not going to be the fastest way to do it.

If you have a higher budget, you're okay with a slightly larger compressor, then we do have

that other option from Smittybilt that will move even more air.

So I've said it before.

I'll say it again, this doesn't really get installed, but I'll give it a one out of three

wrenches for setup and for usage, definitely going to be very easy.

Simply take it out of the carrying case, clip directly on to your battery here, attach your

coiled hose.

If you're gonna be filling up your tires, you don't wanna be carrying this around quite

as much.

Attach your tire pressure gauge, go ahead and fill up your tires.

Very, very simple to use.

Again, like I said before, this compressor is gonna be a pretty good deal coming in at

right around $100 for the entire kit including the carrying case.

I do think that's gonna be a pretty good price.

Again, if you want something that's gonna move some more air, we have that option as

well for more money.

But for what you're paying here, I think you're gonna get a really good deal.

So if you're looking for a way to air up your tires after a day of wheeling, I definitely

recommend taking a look into this compressor from Smittybilt, and you can find it right

here at extremeterrain.com.

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