Hello, this is Blue22, "AO-san".
After last time, I painted the surfacer again.
If you look closely at the whole,
you can see that there is a gap between the bonnet and the bumper.
So I will fill this gap.
First, cut the bumper side deeply.
In such a case,
if the gap is small, the buried putty is easy to remove,
so spread it.
In addition, drill a dent in the place you cut.
I plan to use epoxy putty,
but since I will temporarily remove it during work,
I will make a dent
and make it a guide to make it easier to return to the original position.
Return the hood and paint the lip balm where I plan to put the putty on.
It is to prevent epoxy putty from sticking.
Then I will knead the epoxy putty as much as needed.
I am using the Tamiya's quick-drying type.
Pull it and fold it in half,
then pull it again and fold in half,
repeat and mix well.
Put as much as you need.
Keeping water on your fingers prevents putty from sticking to your fingers.
Wait 24 hours.
When it is completely cured, remove the bonnet.
I also remove the putty.
To prevent the shape from collapsing,
remove it carefully when removing it.
And I will scrape off putty.
Since the trace of the boundary between the hood and the bumper is attached,
I will scrape it as a marker.
First, I will scrap the bonnet side.
I cut it little by little.
If you insert a blade at a deep angle,
it will also scrape unnecessary parts as it is.
So I will scrape little by little.
There are also ways to scrape with a file,
but I do not recommend it much.
It is because it sometimes scraps extra points before it happens.
When you finish cutting,
put it in the body and check the condition.
Adjust the shape while looking at the state.
I will check it again and again.
The drilled dent is useful here.
If it is OK, I will stick it.
I will use instant adhesives.
And, I will paint it only in the scraped blue spot.
And put on putty.
Once firmly set, I will cut the bumper side.
Again, I will scrape little by little carefully.
When the cutting surface gradually approaches the height of the surface of the body,
the part not adhered will peel off.
This is the reason why I applied the instant adhesive only to the blue part.
However, be careful when cutting around the boundary.
Pay attention to the direction of blade insertion so that you can not bring the necessary parts.
There are three kinds of putty in roughly divided.
Besides epoxy putty used this time,
there are lacquer putty and polyester putty.
There are advantages and disadvantages for each,
so if you can use them according to the situation,
you can expand the range of work.
Lacquer putty will decrease in volume after drying.
This is called "sink".
In the case like this time, as sink marks appear,
it will be more troublesome, so it can not be said that it is not very suitable.
Polyester putty does not have sink marks,
but when filling the gap with the bonnet that needs to be removed,
it can be said that the epoxy putty that can be removed after curing is easier to work
than the polyester putty sticking to the surface.
Epoxy putty has a property that it is hard to stick to the painted surface.
This is also a disadvantage,
but in this case it is an advantage.
Since it sticks somewhat to the unpainted plastic surface,
if you apply oil such as lip balm, you will be able to remove it.
When gluing, use instant adhesives.
It does not stick with the adhesive for plastics.
Once the shape is ready,
install the hood and grind the surface with paper file.
I will scrape the hood, bumper and putty so that their faces are identical.
It is a point to grind with the hood fitted.
Make sure that the hood is fixed firmly with tape
so that it does not move during work.
I am using the 400 grid paper file.
Pay attention to excessive force.
It will be like this when you finish cutting.
It is like this when painting a surfacer.
Thank you for watching my video.
See you next time.
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