Auto news on Youtube Apr 23 2018

If you have an oversized tire on your stock carrier, you may be running into some clearance

issues with your bumper.

The tire relocation bracket by Smittybilt will fit up to a 35-inch tire and will help

you regain some clearance by pushing the tire outwards, giving you a little bit more room.

I would like to mention that when you are upgrading your tire size, the larger you go,

the heavier the tire will be on the stock carrier and it can cause the hinges to sag

or wear if it's too heavy.

We do sell heavy duty tire carriers for 35-inch tires and larger, however, this is a simple

solution to accommodating up to a 35-inch tire on your stock carrier for the time being

if you're right at that 35-inch tire size limit.

Installing this one is a one out of three wrenches, and it's pretty simple, so I'll

get into those details on the install in just a moment.

This is a pretty basic bracket here, but if you've experienced some clearance issues,

this can make a world of difference.

It's a sturdy bracket that will mount up to the stock carrier and fit up to a 35-inch

tire like I mentioned before, pushing it out so it clears the bumper.

I would, however, recommend this as a temporary solution if you were looking to match your

tire size on this one with a 35-inch tire since the tire is larger and heavier, it can

cause the tailgate to sag and even damage and stress the metal over time.

The bracket with anything under a 35-inch tire will work exceptionally well and I don't

see this as being as much of a temporary solution with anything smaller than a 35.

This will add a couple of inches of clearance outwards and since it's sandwiched between

your tire and your stock carrier, it will function exactly the same if you were to get

into a pinch and you need to remove your spare.

The mount itself is made of 1/4 inch solid plate steel, which will be durable and hold

the weight of the tire well.

It also has a two-stage powder coat finish to resist any rust or corrosion on the bracket.

The kit comes with the bracket itself, as well as three lugs and washers, as well as

black washers to keep those lugs in place.

This is a universal mount and will fit any YJ, TJ, or JK and will have different lug

hole orientations to accommodate all of those models.

This is a very inexpensive solution for accommodating your larger tire and it only comes in at right

around $60 at the moment.

Like I mentioned before, if you're at the max tire size at 35 inches, this will be more

of a temporary solution, since the larger tire will add stress to your tailgate hinges

decreasing some of its functionality.

However, this is a very inexpensive solution compared to other options that we have on

the site, like top mounted tire carriers, as well as rear bumpers with heavy duty tire

carriers attached to them.

Those can range anywhere from $150 dollars for reinforcement to $700 and up for a rear

bumper and tire carrier or just a heavy duty hinge system itself.

Overall, this is a very simple temp fix if you're looking to go to a 35 and a great choice

to gain a little bit of room on a 33 and even a 34 making this bracket well worth the $60.

Install is very simple at one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and you

should only need a couple of hand tools, and about 20 minutes' worth of your time to get

this thing all hooked up.

Remove the stock tire.

Determine the correct lug bolt pattern that you'll be using, then you're going to be taking

a flat washer along with a bolt, and inserting them into the correct holes, and snugging

them up securely.

These bolts sometimes need to be angled slightly in order to get them to thread in.

Using a 19-millimeter wrench, snug up the lug bolts.

Place the bracket onto the tire carrier and secure with the supplied flat washers and

nylon lock nuts.

Use a 19-millimeter wrench to tighten these bolts.

Mount your tire to the bracket and secure it using the previously removed lug nuts.

So if you're looking for a simple solution for your oversized tire clearance troubles,

Smittybilt has you covered.

This is Meredith of XT and you can find this kit and everything else Wrangler right here

at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Smittybilt Tire Relocation Bracket - 35" (1987-2018 YJ, TJ & JK) Review & Install - Duration: 6:07.

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Jeep Wrangler Rough Country 4" Lift Kit - Shocks (1997-2002 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 42:57.

This Rough Country 4-inch lift kit with shocks is for those of you that have a 1997 to 2002

TJ, that are looking for a 4-inch lift kit that will allow you to run a set of 33-inch

tires on your TJ.

If you are planning on running a larger 35-inch tire, you're probably going to wanna step

up to a 6-inch lift that will give you plenty of room for articulation and for those big

tires.

And if you wanna step down to a 31-inch tire, you can probably get away with a 2.5-inch

lift kit, who again, 4-inch lift kits on a TJ are really ideal for a 33-inch tire.

The reason that this is a '97 to 2002 lift kit and not the full range of the TJ is because

of these transfer case drop brackets here.

It did change a little bit from 2002 to 2003.

So make sure you get the proper lift kit for your year Jeep.

Now, Rough Country makes a good lift kit.

A fairly complete lift kit, but a lift kit that is a little bit less expensive than some

of the others out there, and that makes this a very good starter kit.

This is a way that you can get those 33s on your jeep, drive down the road, drive off-road,

and then slowly add things, modify things, and change things, and upgrade things as you

find necessary for your Jeep to work exactly how you want it to.

So for a 4-inch lift kit, that includes lower control arm shock springs and all of the brackets

that you need to get installed.

This is going to be less expensive than some of the other options out there.

So starting with the construction of this lift kit, it's going to include all of the

parts you see here and some that it couldn't even fit on the table.

Starting here, you have your springs, and this is what's going to provide those four

inches of lift.

So, from Rough Country, you're going to get both front and rear springs, no spacers, all

of the lift is going to come from your springs.

Down here, of course, you have a new longer set of shocks that will accommodate that new,

taller ride height.

These are going to be the N3 shocks from Rough Country.

And as you can see by the banding on here, these are going to be a nitrogen charged shocks.

So when you're looking at shocks, really, you have two different camps, hydraulic and

nitrogen.

The nitrogen charge in a shock like this is there to eliminate any cavitation or foaming

that can happen inside of the shock fluid, which can eventually cause some shock fade.

In general, a Nitro shock will ride a little bit stiffer than a hydraulic shock, but really,

the ride quality is going to come down to the valving, and if there is one area that

you can upgrade this lift kit, get a little bit more of a comfortable ride that is going

to be in the shocks.

Again, these are gonna be the proper length for your new ride height, so they're absolutely

going to work for you right out of the box.

But if you find that the ride is a little bit harsh, you can always swap those out for

a different set of shocks.

Over here, you have four lower control arms.

This is going to be for both the front and the rear of your Jeep.

So as you lift your Jeep, you actually are going to roll the pinion and upfront role

the caster as well.

So by having a longer set of lower control arms, you're able to correct that geometry

a little bit that's going to eliminate a little bit of the flighty feel from the caster and

also to help out your pinion angles, which will eliminate any sort of driveline vibration.

Another way that this lift kit eliminates any of those driveline vibes is by including

a transfer case drop bracket.

And we talked a little bit about that just a second ago.

So when you hit the 4-inch lift mark on a TJ that is not a Rubicon, you are going to

have to do something with that transfer case, either lowering it down or shortening it in

order to run a longer drive shaft.

Now, this is going to be the cheaper and easier way to go about eliminating any of those driveline

vibrations.

Now, you are adding lift and then adding something that is lowering down the belly of the jeep,

so if you do a lot of off-roading, especially on the rocks, you may want to upgrade this

down the line as well, going with that slip yoke eliminator, and CB drive shaft, but keeping

with the theme of this lift kit, they're able to keep costs down a little bit by going with

this and you can always upgrade it down the line if you choose to.

You're going to get a new longer set of both front and rear sway bar and links, again,

longer for that new, taller ride height.

Here, you have a rear track bar bracket that's going to help get your track bar angles back

in line a little bit and help your role center out just a little bit as well.

Again, the kit doesn't include any adjustable track bars, but that is something you could

add down the line.

And the final bracket that I have on the table here is this one, and that's going to go ahead

and relocate some of your transfer case linkage.

So if you had this drop bracket in place, but you don't have this linkage bracket in

place, you're not going to be able to shift very smoothly from two-wheel drive into four-wheel

drive and back again, so that's why that one is included.

So as you can see, you do get a lot of components here, especially for the price of this lift

kit.

It's gonna get you're rolling down the road and a lot of options to upgrade this kit down

the line.

And now, I'll have a member of our install team to show you how to get this installed

on your TJ.

First things first, we're gonna raise the vehicle up.

We're gonna begin by removing the wheels and tires.

The stock Lug nuts are gonna be a 19-millimeter.

First step of the disassembly, we're gonna remove the front sway bar links.

You're gonna need a T55 Torx Bit and an 18-millimeter socket or wrench.

Now, that we have the bottom undone, we're gonna remove these.

We're gonna save this hardware for reuse later on.

Next, we're gonna rotate this bar down.

Use a 15-millimeter socket to remove this nut.

Once you have that out, we're gonna take a hammer.

We're gonna smack the side of the sway bar, crack this free.

Same thing with the other side, use a 15-millimeter.

Remove the nut.

Take a hammer, smack it until it comes out.

Next step, we're gonna support the axle with jack stands.

Now that we have the axle supported, we're gonna remove the track bar bolt using a 15-millimeter

socket.

Next step, we're gonna remove the shocks.

You're gonna need a half inch wrench and a half inch socket.

We're gonna do the same thing for the other side, half-inch wrench up top, half-inch socket

down the bottom.

Pull those out.

We're gonna save the hardware for later.

Now, we're gonna remove our pull jacks, lowering the axle down and then we're gonna work on

getting the top of the shocks off.

This will also free up the spring so we can remove them.

It's also a good idea at this point in time to remove your axle vent tube.

You can just pry that off, and that'll give us a little more room when we're lowering

the axle down.

Next up, with the axle lowered, we're gonna remove the factory springs.

The next step, we're going to switch out the factory lower control arms for the new Rough

Country control arms.

You're gonna mark where the stock cam location is, and then we'll proceed taking that out.

We'll begin by marking where the stock cam location is.

That way when we put the new control arms in, we have a good starting point.

You're gonna need a 21-millimeter socket and a wrench.

I'm gonna crack these loose.

The other side.

Now, we're gonna place our Jack stands underneath the axle.

So now that we have the axle supported, we're gonna go ahead and remove the lower control

arms completely.

We're gonna do one side at a time, that way our axle doesn't roll away from us.

If the bolt doesn't wanna come out, you can place the nut back on it, so you don't mess

up the threads, smack it out with a hammer.

So now that we have this stock control arm out, we're gonna replace it with the Rough

Country control arm.

We're gonna insert the top, use the factory bolt, secure it with the nut, now we'll go

ahead and replace our cam bolt down here.

We're using the factory hardware, you're gonna go ahead and secure that one.

We're gonna align our cam marks up, and then we're gonna do the same thing to the other

side.

Same thing, back the control arm up.

We use this factory hardware, we'll get that secured.

We're gonna use our cam bolt for the front.

Now that both sides are loose, we can roll the axle forward since these are a little

longer than stock, and that way we can get our cam bolts back in.

We're gonna place our washer and our nut, and now we wanna tighten this up.

We'll just keep those snug for now because we still wanna lower it down and get our springs

in.

So now, we're ready to install the springs and shocks.

We're gonna remove the jack stands and then we're gonna lower the vehicle down.

So we're gonna remove this bolt holding this brake line here to give us a little extra

slack.

And you're gonna need a T 40 Torx bit for that.

So now, we're ready to install the spring.

We're gonna go ahead, get this up and over the bump stop, and get it situated.

Once we have it where we want it, we'll use our pry bar to get the spring in there.

So this spring does have a seat down in here, and you wanna make sure that the bottom lines

up and bottoms out with that, just like that.

You're gonna do the same thing for the other side.

I'm gonna get the spring in there, get it lined up with our pry bar.

I want to get this spring in there.

And you wanna spin it so that it seats.

So now, we're gonna put our jack stands back underneath.

So now, we're ready to install the shocks.

We wanna place a washer in the bushing, we're gonna go up through the hole and doing the

bushing, and then a washer, and then the supplied nut.

And that's a 14-millimeter nut, so we're gonna tighten that up, and then we'll get the bottom

in.

For the bottom, we're gonna re-use our stock hardware.

Same thing with the opposite side.

We're gonna do a washer, bushing, another bushing, a washer, and then the supplied nut.

Tighten it up with a 14-millimeter.

We're gonna use that half inch wrench and a half inch socket again.

So now we're ready to install the new sway bar link brackets.

Using the provided hardware, we're gonna put the washer on the bolt, insert that through

the bracket, screw the net on, and then we'll tighten that up snug.

Same thing for the other side.

Bolt, washer, up through the bracket, and then install the nut.

These are also slotted, so you have some side to side movement.

We'll adjust that later on once we get the links in.

For now, we're just gonna get those snug, assemble the links, and install those.

So now, we're ready to assemble the sway bar links.

We need to press these sleeves into here.

So we're gonna do that with a vice.

It's a good idea to spray the inside with WD-40 or some sort of lubricant because it

will make the sleeves slide in a little better.

And we're gonna put it in our vice.

I'm going to just wiggle it back and forth, make sure it doesn't get caught.

You should do the same thing with the other side.

And then the same thing, we're gonna press it through, wiggle it, make sure it doesn't

get stuck.

All right.

Now we're ready to install the sway bar link.

We want the band to face towards the frame.

Using the larger bolts, we're gonna place a washer on there and then install in that.

You wanna make sure that you face the bolt this way so that it doesn't contact the frame.

We're gonna use factory hardware for the bottom so I'll re-install that, our washer, and then

the nut.

Now that we got that in, we'll go and do the other side, and then we'll tighten everything

up.

Same thing, offsite goes towards the frame, place a washer on the bolt.

We're gonna install our nut.

Place a 19 on this side, an 18 on this side.

We'll go ahead and tighten this up.

For the bottom, we're gonna use a T55 Torx and an 18-millimeter wrench.

And now, we're twist these tight and we're gonna tighten this one up.

And that's gonna to be a 14-millimeter on the top and bottom.

The next step of this installation, we're gonna get ready to install the track bar.

For the factory track bar, we have to drill a new hole.

So we're gonna measure over three-quarters of an inch from the center of this hole, and

then we're gonna make our mark, and then we'll draw a new hole there.

So using a 7/16 drillbit, we're gonna drill a new hole.

Last but not least, we're gonna re-install the deafen tube.

Make sure that you have extra slack.

And then once we get the vehicle on the ground, we'll get the track bar in.

Now that we've completed the front install, we're ready to disassemble the rear.

We're gonna begin by placing jack stands underneath the axle.

Compress the springs a little bit, and then we're gonna remove the track bar.

Begin by removing this bolt from the track bar.

You're gonna need a 15 for this side, and then an 18 for the other.

Next up, we're gonna remove the shocks.

We're gonna need a 15 and an 18.

We're gonna do the same thing for the other side.

We're gonna retain this factory hardware for reuse.

Now that we have the shocks disconnected, we're gonna lower the axle, pull the springs

out, take care of some other loose ends.

Pull these springs out.

We're gonna remove the axle vent tube, and we'll re-route that to give us a little more

length.

Now, we're gonna remove the factory sway bar links.

You're gonna need an 18-millimeter for the top.

And for the bottom, you're gonna need an 18 and a 15 for the inside.

Same thing for the other side, an 18 and 15 for the bottom.

So the next step, we're gonna remove the bolt out of the track bar from the axle.

You're gonna need a T55 Torx.

We're gonna save this bolt as we're gonna re-use it later on.

Now we're gonna pull the factory track bar out, set that aside, and then we're gonna

take this plastic cover off.

Next step, using a 13-millimeter socket and a long extension, we're gonna remove the two

bolts out of the top of the shock.

Next, we're gonna remove the OE control arms and replace them with the new Rough Country

ones.

We'll use a 21-millimeter on both sides.

And we're gonna install our new control arm.

We're using the factory hardware.

Now, that we're able to roll the axle, we can install the new control arms and align

those bad boys up.

Same thing for the other side, I'm gonna start with the top.

Insert our OEM bolt, and then we're gonna twist our axle.

We'll reinstall the lower control arm.

And now that we have them all in, we're just gonna tighten them up, just to get them snug.

Next step, we're gonna install the new Rough Country track bar relocation bracket into

the axle.

Using the supplied hardware, we're gonna insert a sleeve, use the provided bolt and the nut

to give us on the backside.

Once we have that on, we're gonna take a 5/16 drill bit, we're gonna enlarge this hole down

here, and then we're gonna do the same for the top hole.

Next, using the supplied hardware, we're gonna insert a bolt with a washer on it, and we'll

place our lock washer.

This is where I use a magnet.

We're gonna use a half inch wrench on the inside and a half inch socket on the outside.

I'm gonna go ahead and tighten that up.

Same thing, we're, gonna tighten this up using a half inch.

And since you can't really get a wrench in there, I like to just stick a screwdriver

in there, pry against the nut.

It holds it in place for the most part.

Next step, we're gonna install the springs and shocks.

We're gonna place this spring up into its seat.

Same thing for the other side, we're gonna go ahead and install it over the top bump

stop.

Use our pry bar.

Go ahead, kick in partially, lift up a little bit more, slide it over the spring seat.

So now, we're ready to install the top of the shocks.

You're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket on a long extension.

I like to get the outer bolt started, then we can put our shock up and slide it on, and

then we'll get the other one in and tighten those up.

Just makes it a little easier because the outer one is in a tight spot.

Same thing goes for the other side.

Get that outside bolt started.

Now, before we raise the axle up, we're gonna install this bolt in the track bar.

That way, we can get an impact socket on there.

So we need to fish that up through, and we're gonna use the factory bolt that we removed.

Wiggle that bad boy into place.

We'll install our tab knot, and then we'll tighten that up.

We're gonna need a T55 Torx.

So now, that we've got our track bar bolt in, we're ready to raise the axle up.

That's gonna be our next step.

Then we'll get the bottom of these shocks in.

We wanna make sure that the Jeep doesn't come up off the lift, and we're compressing the

springs.

Now, we're ready to install the lower section of the shock.

We're gonna reuse the factory hardware for this.

We may have to spread these tabs somewhat to get the shocks and the new bushings to

fit in there.

We're gonna use a 15-millimeter on this side and an 18 on the other side.

Same thing with the other side, set our shock in.

We're gonna use our factory hardware.

And we're gonna tighten it up using our 18 and our 15.

Now that we have our shocks installed, we can remove our Jack stands.

So next thing, to add a little more length to this differential two breather, we're gonna

pull that back out through here.

I'm gonna go ahead and reattach that on there.

And then we'll add a zip tie here to keep it up and out of the way.

Let me go ahead and tie it to a zip tie around all these lines here, and trim that, and cut

that excess off.

In this step, we're gonna assemble the rear sway bar links.

Rough Country provides you with links, however their sleeves that need pressed in.

So we're gonna take our WD-40, add a little lubrication, and we'll insert those, and we're

gonna press them in with a vice.

So we're gonna press them in, wiggle them until they're fully seated.

Do the same thing with the other side.

Press them in, make sure they don't get stuck, same thing with the other link.

So now we're ready to install the rear sway bar links.

Rough Country provides new hardware for the top.

We're gonna use the factory tab nut, but we're not gonna use the bolt.

We're gonna use a new bolt with a washer on.

We're gonna go ahead and install that.

We'll get the rear installed.

We're gonna place a washer on our bolt.

Install the bolts through here, through the sway bar, another washer, and then a nut.

So you want a washer on each side of the bushing.

We're gonna do the same thing for the other side.

Bolt, washer, and we're gonna use the factory tab knot.

Same thing for the bottom.

A bolt, a washer.

We're gonna place another washer on the inside through the sway bar, and then we'll install

the nut.

We're gonna tighten everything using a 17-millimeter.

We're gonna use 17 for the bottom, and we'll do the same thing for the other side.

So now we're gonna go around and tighten the control arms.

You're gonna need a 21 socket and a 21 wrench.

Now, we're ready to install the transfer case dropped kit provided by Rough Country.

First step, we're gonna access the driver's side of the vehicle.

We're gonna pull the carpet up so that we can access the four bolts that hold the bracket.

Next, we're gonna use a 10-millimeter and remove these four bolts.

So now that we've removed the four bolts from the interior, we're gonna go ahead and pull

this bracket off.

So then just pull down on it, slide it off of the pin, and now we're going to attach

a drop bracket to this.

So first off, we're gonna use a 10-millimeter to remove these.

We're gonna pull all that out, set that aside for now.

And we're gonna take our drop bracket.

We're gonna re-use the factory bolts.

Then we're gonna take that, insert that in there, add that plate back on there, and then

we're gonna use the new hardware to re-install that.

And the new hardware is an 11-millimeter.

So we're gonna use an 11-millimeter wrench, socket.

So now we're ready to install the spacers for the transfer case drop.

We're gonna support it with the Jack stand where I remove one side, loosen the other

side, we'll stick a spacer in this side, and then we'll get started on the other side.

We're gonna need a 3/4 inch socket to remove these bolts.

So now we're gonna lower this down and see if the drop's enough that we can get that

spacer in there.

So now that we have the drop spacers, we're gonna go ahead and plug the ends.

Now, Rough Country gives you longer bolts.

They're the same size, 3/4-inch.

So we're gonna go ahead and install our spacer, insert our bolts.

We're gonna use our 3/4 inch.

I'll go ahead and tighten this up.

Tighten this back up.

So now we're gonna do the same thing with the other side.

We're gonna support the transfer case skid plate with a Jack, and then we'll pull these

three bolts out.

We're gonna get those ends in.

So now we're gonna lower this down.

We'll install our spacer.

Now that we have these in, we're gonna go ahead, use a 3/4, and we'll tighten these

up, and then we'll finish tightening on the other side, and we'll be all good to go.

When doing the transfer case dropped along with the drop bracket, we're gonna need to

adjust the four-wheel drive linkage.

Now the four-wheel drive linkage, you're gonna need to loosen this 13-millimeter here, and

you're going to slide this rod forward.

That's gonna drop the handle back down.

And then once we get that properly adjusted, we're gonna run it through all the gears and

make sure that everything's okay.

So we have that adjusted.

We're gonna go ahead and tighten this back up and then we'll reinstall the transfer piece

bracket assembly.

So now we're ready to install the bracket.

We're gonna go ahead, and you wanna slide that bottom section on, make sure you get

the pin in.

And then once we have it in place, we'll go inside, may take two people, and we'll get

those 10-millimeter bolts back in.

You're gonna want someone underneath holding the bracket up for you.

Now that we're almost finished with our install, the last step is to install the track bars.

The best way to do this, we're gonna put the wheels back on the vehicle, and have the weight

of the vehicle on the ground to help us get the last bolt in.

We're gonna use a 19-millimeter to tighten up the lug nut.

Now we're gonna lower the vehicle to the ground.

So now that we have the Jeep lowered, looks like the track bar lines up with the hole.

I'm gonna insert that bolt back through there, nut back on, and then we'll tighten it up

using a 15 socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.

Brace yourselves because this may take a while.

So the best way to install this front track bar bolt and to get this to line up is to

have someone turn the steering wheel.

All right.

So now that we have that together, we'll go ahead and tighten that up and that finishes

up.

So this kit's gonna run you just shy of $600 in that, it's going to be pretty inexpensive

for all of the components that you're getting here.

As I mentioned, Rough Country is known for doing that, putting together a complete lift

kit that's also less expensive than some of the other options out there, and this is definitely

going to get you rolling down the road, but if you choose to upgrade it down the line,

it gives you a lot of opportunity to do that as well.

So for a starter lift kit, I think this one is very fairly priced.

So if you are looking for an inexpensive starter lift kit to get you rolling on a set of 33-inch

tires, I definitely recommend taking a look at this kit from Rough Country and you can

find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rough Country 4" Lift Kit - Shocks (1997-2002 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 42:57.

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Jeep Wrangler Raxiom Bluetooth Switch & Accessory Controller (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review - Duration: 3:17.

Adding a bunch of accessories and off-road lighting to your Jeep is great.

However, the wiring can get very messy.

Not to mention, when adding all of those wires, you run the risk of blowing fuses and drawing

extra energy from your battery with everything connected to it.

This Raxiom Bluetooth Light Switch and Accessory Controller will solve all of those problems

and allow you to easily control all of your accessories.

This will consolidate all of your wiring to one controller that will act as a relay, and

they will be completely controllable with a remote or Bluetooth.

Installing this will involve some simple wiring, so I'm giving it a one out of three wrenches

on the difficulty meter, and we'll show you how to do that in just a minute.

This unit consists of the actual control unit that you can universally mount, and has the

main wires in the back to connect directly to your battery.

And then on the other side it has four waterproof connectors that will accept the provided wiring

harnesses that you'll wire into your accessories.

Each connector is individually run through this controller, which will act as a relay

to your battery.

Within each connecting unit you'll find fuses that will accept a 12 to 24 volt input, and

output the same amount.

There are 2 10 amp fuses and 2 30 amp fuses to protect your wiring and prevent having

multiple relays for each of the wiring harnesses.

What I really like about this is that it has a separate remote control to control all of

the operation to your accessories, so no switch or any switch pods are needed.

There is even an Android and an iOS-compatible app where you can control everything from,

and you can even program the controller for security, which is also pretty neat.

This is actually the only option that we have for an accessory controller, and at the moment

it sits right around the $200 mark.

There's some other controllers that I have seen out on the market that are a bit cheaper

than this, however they are usually pretty basic.

On the other side of that, there are controllers out there with features that this has for

double the price.

I personally think that $200 is not a bad price when you're consolidating all of your

wiring to make your accessories effortlessly accessible.

From my personal experience with accessory lighting, this will pay itself off in the

long run.

I personally think that $200 is not a bad price to consolidate all of your wiring, making

your accessories effortlessly accessible.

From my personal experience with accessory lighting, this will pay itself off in the

long run.

Install will be a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and, like I said,

this will just involve some basic wiring.

This is universally mountable, like I mentioned, so you just have to find a good place to mount

the control box near the battery.

There are the main wires for the control box that you'll have to attach to the battery,

and then the other four wiring harnesses that you'll have to attach to your accessories.

Now, depending on what you're attaching to your controller, you wanna pick the best fuse

that fits with your accessory, so you can best attach it to the correct wiring harness.

After that, you can open up the app, or use the controller to access your accessories.

So if you're looking for a very easy and accessible way to clean up the wiring underneath your

Wrangler's hood, Raxiom has you covered.

I'm Merideth with XT, and for everything Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Raxiom Bluetooth Switch & Accessory Controller (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review - Duration: 3:17.

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Jeep Wrangler Barricade Recovery Kit (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 6:17.

This Barricade Recovery Kit is for those of you that are going off-road and want a nice,

easy, convenient grab bag full of most of the recovery gear that you're going to need

or at least a really nice starter pack that you can then add on to.

This is going to be appropriately priced, it's also going to be very, very convenient.

Like I said, you're gonna get most of the stuff you need all in one bag, all in one

skew instead of trying to piece something together.

If you're new to the off-road, you're not sure exactly what you're going to need when

you hit the trails, instead of just buying stuff that you may never use, again this is

going to be a very, very nice starter set.

Not much of an installation to talk about here.

Obviously, these are things that you're going to be using and putting back in the bag and

throwing back in the Jeep again, but we will talk a little bit more about how these are

going to be used.

Let's talk about the parts that are included in this kit.

First, you're going to have your carrying bag, your storage back here.

And this might not seem like a huge deal but when you have all of this gear just floating

around in the back of your Jeep, it is very nice to keep everything organized.

And this is a nice sturdy bag, has a nice heavy-duty zipper, has lots of pockets on

the inside and on the outside so it is going to store everything very nicely for you and

just make it really convenient.

When you do get stuck, you reach in the back of the Jeep, you grab your one bag, you know

what you have.

It's all gonna be right there for you.

Starting over here, we have your first strap.

This is a very wide strap.

This is probably a 4-inch wide strap.

It's going to have a 28,000-pound pulling capacity, roughly the equivalent here to the

13,000 kilograms and this is going to be your snatch strap.

And what that means is it has a little give to it, it has a little bit of stretch to it.

And the idea there is that the vehicle doing the recovery is going to be able to get up

a little bit of speed and use that stretch to, one, soften the blow to the vehicle that's

stuck, but actually use that stretch as things expand and then contract again to help get

a little bit more momentum and help get that stuck vehicle unstuck.

So again, this has a little bit of stretch that has a little bit of move to it.

This is going to be is a shorter five-foot strap that is about 3 inches in diameter,

roughly and it also has a slightly lower pulling capacity, about 26,000 pounds equivalent.

And this is really going to be your tree saver.

This isn't going to have the same stretch to it that this one here does.

And the idea behind a tree saver is that when you're using a tree as a winching point or

you're attaching a snatch block on to a tree, you never wanna attach the winch line directly

around the tree and hook it to itself.

That can take all the bark off all the way around the tree, which will kill the tree.

So the aptly named "Tree saver" will allow you to put the strap around the tree and keep

the tree safe so that next time you're stuck on that same trail, you're gonna have that

same tree to winch off of.

This here is called a drag chain.

And it is absolutely for dragging debris off the trail and not for recoveries.

These are metal hooks.

This is a metal chain.

This is not a recovery tool.

This is for dragging fallen trees, fallen limbs off the trail and that's it.

Do not use this for recovery.

This is very, very dangerous.

This is for recovery, this is for recovery, this is absolutely not.

Over here, you have a snatch block.

And a snatch block can do a couple different things for you.

It allows you to winch at an angle that you otherwise might not be able to winch at.

This will allow you to double the pulling capacity of your winch if you need to do that.

You can go to your snatch block and back to your Jeep again, cutting your speed in half

but double your pulling capacity.

So you're going to have that.

And over here, you're going to have a couple of shackles.

And these are 3/4-inch shackles so they are going to be 4-3/4 ton.

So they're more than enough as far as the pulling capacity of the shackles.

You're going to have two of them so you can go to both ends of your strap.

You can go and attach it to your tree saver that you have something to then attach your

winch on to.

You really can't have enough shackles when you're doing a recovery.

Having a bunch of them around is always helpful.

This is going to give you two, which is going to be more than enough to get you started

but this is definitely one of those things where you can always add.

And then you have a nice high-quality set of gloves.

These are a nice thick set of leather gloves.

That's very, very important, especially when you're handling a steel winch line.

You can get metal splinters from those.

You just wanna make sure that you're protecting your hands when you're working really with

any recovery gear, but especially be careful with those steel winch lines.

And these gloves are definitely going to help protect you.

So like I said, not really an installation required with any of this stuff.

This stuff is all going to be things that you're going to use.

You can attach your snatch strap to any load bearing recovery points or 2-inch receiver

points on either vehicle using the D-rings or not using a D-rings.

Be careful with these.

If you do end up looping them into themselves, you can actually end up with a situation where

it gets really tight and it's difficult to undo.

So using a D-ring isn't a good way to go about it.

That way, you don't have to worry about that situation happening.

The drag chain is designed with these hooks on it that will allow you to make it in the

length that it needs to be.

So essentially, the hook will allow you to hook anywhere on the chain.

That's just how those are designed.

The D-ring is pretty much a standard D-ring for those of you that don't know.

Because these can also get very tight during a recovery, the hole in here is so that you

can put a screwdriver in there and have some leverage to break these pins loose if they

do end up getting tight on you during a recovery.

And that's basically it.

Most of this stuff is pretty self-explanatory on how you're going to be using it on the

trail.

This whole kit is gonna run you just shy of $100.

I do think that's a good deal for what you're getting.

Again, you have the recovery bag which is...might not seem like a big deal right off the bat,

but it is definitely a nice piece to have when you have a bunch of recovery gear in

your Jeep.

A really nice starter set, giving you a little bit of everything that you're gonna need.

Definitely can get yourself out of some sticky situations with everything that's included

here, and I think the price is right.

So if you're looking for a one-stop shop recovery gear kit, I definitely recommend this one

from Barricade.

And you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Barricade Recovery Kit (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 6:17.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Fire Extinguisher Holder (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 2:42.

This Rugged Ridge black sport bar fire extinguisher holder is for those of you that have a 1987

and up Wrangler, that are looking for a way to hold a 3-pound fire extinguisher in your

Jeep, where it's going to be secure and also up out of the way.

This is going to install very easily, with just some Velcro straps onto your sport cage.

Definitely a one-out-of-three-wrench installation, less than 15 minutes to get it done, and we'll

talk more about that in just a second.

So there are gonna be a couple of different reasons you may want to keep a fire extinguisher

in your Jeep, just as you would in any other vehicle.

Whether you have an incident, or you just have it on hand to help somebody else out

in their time of need, having a fire extinguisher is never a bad idea.

But you certainly don't want it taking up valuable cargo space in the Jeep or rolling

around in the back cargo area or on the floor somewhere.

So being able to strap it up on the sport cage, where it's not only out of the way but

also secure, is going to be a great way to carry that fire extinguisher.

And by using a holder like this, you're going to have all of that in a nice, neat little

package and for a very affordable price.

This fire extinguisher holder is going to be made out of a nylon material that has a

couple of plastic buckles on it.

And the main retention mechanism is going to be Velcro.

So you're gonna be able to wrap this around your sport cage nice and tight and then slide

that fire extinguisher in there, again, holding it nice and secure and up out of the way.

So as far as the installation goes, again, one out of three wrenches, less than 15 minutes.

You just have to figure out where you wanna put this on your sport cage.

I would probably recommend that rear area, that very far back pillar of your sport cage,

depending on what year Jeep you have, what body style you have.

If you have a newer JK, that could mean different things, but all the way in the back corner

is probably gonna be the best spot to put this thing.

You'll go ahead and strap it around the sport cage.

Make sure it's nice and tight.

Slide your 3-pound fire extinguisher in there and you're done.

This fire extinguisher holder's gonna run you right around 30 bucks, which I do think

is gonna be pretty affordable.

Now, there are going to be some fancier fire extinguisher holders out there.

There are going to be some aluminum ones that are quick-draw.

There are going to be some fancier options.

Those are, of course, going to be more expensive.

But if you're just looking for something that's gonna do its job, that's gonna hold that fire

extinguisher securely up out of the way and is gonna save you some money, I think this

is gonna be a good option.

So if you're looking for a secure way to carry a 3-pound fire extinguisher in your Jeep,

I definitely recommend this holder from Rugged Ridge and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Fire Extinguisher Holder (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 2:42.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Full Car Cover (1987-2006 YJ & TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 3:36.

If you're looking for full-coverage protection and a little bit of security to your '97 to

'06 TJ, this full-car cover kit by Rugged Ridge will be just for you.

There's a lot of other different covers on the market, but this will offer full-coverage

with your top on or off, to protect your paint from any unexpected weather.

This is even good to throw on the Jeep when it's sitting outside unused to protect the

factory paint from fading, or if the top is off, this will protect your interior from

the sun's harmful UV rays.

Installing this isn't really an install but I'll touch on that in just a moment.

This car cover is a combination of three heavy-duty layers of fabric to protect your TJ.

Rugged Ridge really did a good job at designing this out of breathable polypropylene material

on the outside that will provide really good protection and will keep water and condensation

from forming underneath the cover.

The porous fabric will prevent any mold or mildew from forming and even ice from building

up in the colder months.

On the inside, it has a softer fabric, which is great for laying on your paint, preventing

any scratches or scuffs from getting to the body of your Jeep.

Even though this does not come with a lock and key like another option by Rugged Ridge,

they do, however, include a rope to secure and tie underneath the Jeep.

This makes it perfect so the cover is not blown off in the wind and it's perfect if

you don't have any doors on your Jeep at the time or just trail doors installed, so you

can't just flip up the side of the cover and have access to the inside of the Jeep, which

is a little bit of extra security that we like.

With that, this has an elastic strap on the bottom seam to keep everything snug and in

place.

Not to mention, this is an all-the-time cover that you can throw on over your hard top or

your soft top and it's big enough to fit over light bars, aftermarket fenders and bumpers,

as well as oversized tires.

Like I mentioned, there's a couple of different options for car covers that we offer right

now.

This one lands at right in the middle of the road with price at about a $120.

Covers can range anywhere from $50 to right around $250, depending if you want a full-car

cover or if you're just looking for a cover to protect your cab area.

For a full-car option, we offer a couple by Rugged Ridge that will include a full-car

cover like this with a lock and key as well as a bag.

And then we also have an option by Rugged Ridge for a light weather cover.

If you're looking for a more affordable option and want different options, those will also

be great choices.

However, if you're looking for more than what this cover here offers, Covercraft has a premium

and a deluxe custom fit car cover that will be a little bit of a jump in price, but will

also offer a custom fit, as well as some strong protection and a warranty.

Overall, this is a great choice if you don't need all of the bells and whistles but still

want some good protection at a great price.

Like I mentioned, this isn't much of an install but I still have to rate it and it gets a

one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter from me.

All you have to do is lay the car cover out to make sure it's oriented in the correct

way and throw the cover over the Jeep.

Once everything's positioned correctly, you loop the rope through the holes and tie it

up underneath the Jeep and then you can enjoy your new car cover.

So if you're looking for an affordable full-cover to your '97 to '06 TJ, this is a great option

to check out.

This is Merideth with XT and you can find this and everything else Wrangler right here

at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Full Car Cover (1987-2006 YJ & TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 3:36.

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Jeep Wrangler Teraflex Quick Disconnect Pin Kit (2007-2018 JK) Review - Duration: 3:12.

Articulation off-road is key for flexing over big rocks and obstacles, but your up travel

can be limited by your sway bar end links.

The best way to increase your off-road performance is to disconnect them.

However, you will need tools at the trailhead to disconnect them, and it can be a pain to

get them up and out of the way.

That's where the Teraflex Quick Disconnect Kit will come in handy with your sway bar

end links.

If you already have a quick disconnect installed but you've lost them to the trail or they've

gone bad from normal wear and tear, then this pin kit here will be a very easy and affordable

replacement.

These are very easy to replace and install, and I'll show you how to do that in just a

minute.

These are designed to allow the sway bar to pop off with the pull of a hitch pin so it

can be moved out of the way for an increase in suspension clearance off-road.

The pins connect to the axle like the sway bar does now, however, the sway bar will slip

over the pin and clip into place.

The pin kit is specifically designed for the Teraflex sway bar end links and will be a

direct replacement for the sway bar stud pin, as well as the hitch pin clip for the axle

end.

These will secure the sway bar end links in place when it's installed on the axle ensuring

that they won't go anywhere once disconnected.

The design makes it incredibly easy to take them off before hitting the trail.

This will come with one set by itself, so if you were looking for both sides, you would

need to purchase two of these kits.

However, if you did have Teraflex sway bar end links but wanted a full kit of the quick

disconnects, we do offer both sides with the mounts to mount the sway bars up and out of

the way in a kit for about double the price of this one.

Like I mentioned before, this is a very affordable replacement for your Teraflex sway bar end

links quick disconnect kit.

At the moment this is right around $15, and you really can't beat it if you need to do

some maintenance or replace some missing parts.

There's really not much to compare this to since this replacement kit is specifically

for the Teraflex sway bar end links.

However, Teraflex seems to be the only brand with this option for replacement hardware

as a stand-alone kit that does not come with the sway bar end links.

If you were looking for quick disconnects, most options will be in a kit which will get

you the actual sway bars, which will cost anywhere from right around $50 to $150.

Like I said, we do offer Teraflex's full quick disconnect kit that comes with the mounts

for about double the price.

So simple replacements like this are at a price you can't beat when it comes to Teraflex

end links.

Install will be a one out of three wrenches, and it should take you about an hour to replace

the link with simple hand tools.

All you have to do is remove the bottom 18-millimeter sway bar bolt and replace it with a stud pin,

nut, and washer with the stud facing the inside and the bolt facing the outer side.

Then you can pop the sway bar onto the pin and secure it down with the hitch pin clip.

So if you're looking for some affordable quick disconnect hardware, Teraflex has your back.

This is Merideth with XT, and you can find these and everything else Wrangler, right

here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Teraflex Quick Disconnect Pin Kit (2007-2018 JK) Review - Duration: 3:12.

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Jeep Wrangler Barricade Fender Flares (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 8:26.

These Barricade Fender Flares are gonna be for those of you that have a 1997 to 2006

TJ that are looking to completely change up the look of your Jeep.

These are going to be a fairly involved installation.

In fact, I'm gonna go all the way up to a three out of three install on these because

you do have to do a good bit of cutting on the factory front fenders.

But we'll talk a little bit more about that installation in just a second.

So, there are really two schools of thought when it comes to a fender flare, specifically

a flat fender flare for your Jeep.

Some people think that because this is metal it's going to provide some additional protection

to your Jeep, and that makes a lot of sense.

The other school of thought is that you actually want your fender flares to be a plastic material

or a soft material that's going to bend and flex.

The idea of being that, if you make contact with something off-road or even on-road, you

want the fender flare that's pretty easy and inexpensive to repair to go ahead and flex

and break, if it's going to break.

Whereas, if you have something metal, it can actually transfer an impact into the rest

of the body of the Jeep causing a much more expensive repair.

So it really comes down to your thought process and what sort of fender flare you like on

your Jeep.

If you are considering a metal fender, flare I really do like these ones from Barricade.

There are some others out there that are going to be a little bit more expensive, and they're

really not going to have a lot more features over what these have.

I think these give your Jeep a really nice look.

One thing to note is that these are not going to provide a ton of additional uptravel to

your Jeep.

Now, if you have a set of factory fender flares as you're articulating and you're flexing

off-road, the tire may come in contact with a fender flare, but that's not really limiting

your articulation.

These being a flat flare are gonna get rid of that contact, but, again, not really adding

a ton of additional articulation.

In fact, up front, Jeep has notched out the metal to give you the maximum amount of travel

of that front axle.

And by adding this where it has a solid tube that runs all the way across the front of

this front fender, you may actually lose just a little bit of uptravel.

Again, if you are looking at a set of fender flares though, I do like these ones, I think

they're well put together, they're strong.

I like the coating on them and they are going to be a pretty good price.

These flares are made of steel.

Up front here, you're going to have 2 inch, round tube that is 0.12 into wall thickness.

The flat stock here is three sixteenth's inch steel, so you are going to get a good bit

of strength from these flares.

They're gonna be covered in that textured black powder coating that's going to match

a lot of the factory plastic accents on your Jeep, as well as a lot of other aftermarket

accessories that you may have bolted on your Jeep.

So they're going to match and they're going to fit in very well.

Like I said before, the installation of these is going to be a little bit of a difficult

one because of all the cutting that's required, but that's not specific to this set of metal

fender flares.

That's pretty much universal across all metal fender flares.

And you can always take your Jeep to a shop if you'd rather have them install these.

One other thing that some other manufacturers do include on their front metal flares that

these ones are not going to is a marker light or a solution to your lack of marker light

once you get rid of that factory fender flare.

Now, there is a small hole drilled in this gusset in the front flare here.

You can go ahead and fill that with an LED marker light.

You can get creative.

There are certainly a lot of solutions to this problem.

However, you do know that that's something you're going to need in order to stay legal

and stay safe, and that's not something that's included in the box when you purchase these

flares.

So I've mentioned a couple times, this is a bit of an involved install.

We're gonna have somebody from the installation team show you exactly how to get these bolted

onto your TJ.

First step, we're gonna remove the stock fender flares using an 8 millimeter ratchet wrench.

Unplug the core marker and remove the fender flare from the vehicle.

Next, remove the 3, 13 millimeter balls that connect the fender to the grill.

Next, remove the four rear fenderwell bolts.

Next, create a template or use a sharpie and measure out your fender.

There's a small metal piece protruding upward right next to the OE headlight.

That will be your starting point.

From that point towards the outer edge, the OE fender will be five and three-eighths inches

long.

Mark it with a marker.

Now, 12 inches down from your previous mark, come 4 inches out and make another mark.

Now, from the 4-inch mark, go 8 inches further down and come two and three-sixteenths out,

and make another mark.

And lastly, from the two and three-sixteenths mark, go 11 inches further down and come three-eighths

of an inch out and make your final mark.

If you've marked your fender out, using a die grinder, cut the fender.

Remove the four rear fender bolts and remove the rest of the fender.

Once you're done cutting all the old fender off, you can begin installing your new fender

flare.

Use the supplied hardware 4/13-millimeter bolts on the rear side of the fender.

Install the fender using the previously removed 13-millimeter bolts upfront.

Next, using a 5/16 drill bit, drill out the 5 holes on the top of the fender, and use

the supplied hardware.

Next, using a 3/8 drill bit, drill up from underneath of the fender of the factory hood

latch location hole.

Next, install the factory hood latch.

After you're done installing the rest of your hardware, your installation of front fender

is complete and you can do the exact same thing on the opposite side of the vehicle.

Using an 8-millimeter wrench, remove the 8 bolts that secure the factory flare to the

vehicle.

After removing the factory fender flare, you might have to grind some of the old nut

out of the way so the new provided hardware will fit.

Next, line up your new fender flare and install it using the provided hardware.

After you're finished tightening your hardware for the fender flare, repeat the same steps

for the opposite side of the vehicle, and then your installation is complete.

These flares are available in individual sets.

You can get either just the fronts or just the rears.

But what we're talking about here today is the set of all 4, and these are gonna run

you right around $500.

I do think that's gonna be a pretty good deal for what you're getting, especially when you

compare them to some of the other metal flares that are out there on the market.

Some of those other flares will include a couple of other features, mainly, the marker

light in the front corner.

If that's something that's really important to you, maybe take a look at one of those

other brands.

But if you are looking for a way to save a little bit of money and still get a very high-quality

option, I would definitely recommend these.

So, if you're looking for a quality and inexpensive set of metal fender flares for you TJ, I definitely

recommend taking a look at this option from Barricade, and you can find it right here

at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Barricade Fender Flares (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 8:26.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Black Plastic Grille Insert Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 2:24.

The Rugged Ridge black plastic grille insert kit is for those of you that have a 1997 to

2006 TJ, that are looking to change up the look of the front of your Jeep a little bit

without completely changing that iconic seven-slot grille.

These are going to install very easily into your Jeep by just snapping into place.

Definitely a one out of three wrench installation.

And honestly, this shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes to complete.

But we'll talk more about that in just a second.

So if you're looking for a grille insert, you're gonna have a couple of different options.

You're gonna have plastic options, billet aluminum ones, probably also some mild steel

that's powder coated.

And you're gonna have some that are going to be complete vertical slits that fill the

entire slot in the grille.

You're gonna have these, which really more just go around the outside.

And you're going to have some mesh inserts as well, so again, a lot of different options.

These are going to be more of an aesthetic model.

They're going to be more of something that changes up the look of your Jeep.

If you get something that's a little bit more solid, you may actually have some function

by helping to protect the radiator against stone throws, but that's not these.

These are really just for the look.

If you are looking for an inexpensive way to change up the look of your Jeep, make it

look a little bit different from factory, I think this is gonna be a great option for

you.

These are made out of a UV-treated thermoplastic material that are going to fit really well,

they're gonna hold up well.

And because they do have that UV treatment, they're not going to fade, get chalky, or

turn white or gray in the sun.

As for the install, again, definitely one out of three wrenches.

Probably no more than 15 minutes to get these installed.

Once you get these out of the packaging, it's really just a matter of snapping them into

the grille.

There is a top and the bottom, but it's very clear which way they go.

You can't put them on the wrong way.

And once you get them aligned top to top, bottom to bottom, you just snap them into

the slot in the grill and you're done.

These inserts are gonna run you right around $60, which I do think is gonna be a pretty

fair price for what you're getting.

If you step up and get something that's aluminum, of course, you're gonna be adding much higher

price point.

But for something that fits well and has a nice high-quality plastic that's not going

to fade on you over the time, I think this is a good deal.

So if you're looking for a grille insert to change up the look of your TJ, I definitely

recommend taking a look at these ones from Rugged Ridge.

And you can find them right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Black Plastic Grille Insert Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 2:24.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Hardtop Flag Sun Shade - Front (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 3:38.

The Rugged Ridge hardtop flag sun shade is for those of you that have a 2007 and up JK

that has a hard top installed on it, you like to remove those freedom panels from that front

area so you get a little bit more of that open air driving experience but you want something

to take a little bit of the edge off of the sun.

That, and something that's going to change up the look of your Jeep a little bit and

give you a little bit of additional style and additional flair.

This is going to install very easily onto your Jeep.

Definitely a one-out-of-three wrench installation.

Less than 15 minutes to get this installed.

And we'll talk a little bit more about that in just a second.

So, like I said, this is designed to work specifically with the rear half of your hard

top installed.

Just going in that front area where the freedom panels would go, to take a little bit of the

sun off of you and your front seat passenger.

This is going to be a very high-quality piece.

I like the fact that this has all of the elastic pieces sewn right into it, so you don't have

those bungee cords that are separate that you then need to make sure you don't lose.

This also comes in a handy carrying case, so even though you can leave this on underneath

of your hard top or your soft top, if you do remove it, you can simply fold it up, keep

it in the carrying case.

It keeps it nice and neat.

Overall, I think that you're just getting a very high-quality product here that solves

a problem for a lot of you, having that direct sun on your head.

This is going to be a really nice solution to that and it's gonna do it all at a very

fair price.

There are mesh tops available for the front section, the rear section of your two-door

or your four-door.

All kinds of different configurations for mesh tops like this.

But not many that are designed specifically to be used in this area, while you still have

the back half of your hard top installed.

And that's specifically what this is all about.

This is going to attach onto the windshield frame here.

It's going to also attach onto the sport cage around the sides.

It's going to cover exactly that area that is left open when you remove those freedom

panels.

You're still gonna get a lot of light through here, still get that open air experience to

get a breeze through, but it's going to cut down on a little bit of that sun, just make

it a little bit more comfortable on those very hot days.

So, like I said, very simple one-out-of-three wrench installation.

Fifteen minutes or less to get this installed.

Up front here, you do have a little bit of Velcro and that's going to attach onto the

footman loops that are on the top of your windshield frame, that would normally hold

down your freedom panels.

So you'll go ahead and attach those.

Work your way from the front to the back, attaching the elastic around your sport cage.

And then finally, in the back here, a couple of more attachment points, just to make sure

everything stays nice and tight and isn't going to flap around in the wind.

This comes in at $70, which I do think is a pretty good deal for what you're getting

here.

There are some mesh tops out there that are cheaper in build quality, cheaper materials

as well, and they are going to have a lower price.

This one is a very specific fit for the front half of that hard top, when you have the freedom

panels removed, so it's very specific as far as that goes.

Has the American flag logo on it.

As I mentioned before, it has these very heavy-duty elastic straps that are sewn right on so you

don't have to worry about losing a strap.

There are a lot of features in this that I really like.

I like the build quality as well, so I do think it's gonna be worth the price.

So, if you run a hard top on your Jeep most of the time, you like pulling those freedom

panels off but you want a little bit of protection from the sun as well as a way to change up

the look of your Jeep, I would recommend taking a look into this sun shade by Rugged Ridge.

And you can find it right here, at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Hardtop Flag Sun Shade - Front (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 3:38.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge All Terrain Entry Guard Kit (2007-2018 JK 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 4:02.

Getting in and out of your JK can really wear on your door sills, especially over a long

period of time, since it can get scratched and scuffed because they're painted.

This door entry guard kit by Rugged Ridge will help with that wear and tear on your

'07 to '18 JK Unlimited.

These will protect your door sills from any damage that might come, and they will cover

up any existing scratches or imperfections on your Wrangler.

Not to mention, these will give you some added style points with the treaded face, and they'll

provide some grip when you step in and out of the Jeep.

Installing this is a breeze at one out of three wrenches since there's no drilling required,

and I'll tell you more about the install in just a moment.

Unlike most door sill guards, this kit is made of a thermoplastic material.

Now, you might not think that plastic is the best for taking this kind of abuse since you'll

be stepping on these all the time, but ABS is one of the most common trim piece materials

because of its durability and its strength.

The guard is designed to be a tight fit and it really follows all the contours on the

JK's body lines inside the door sill.

This will come with the front and the back door sill guards and will be sized accordingly,

really giving you that custom feel.

Like I mentioned before, these will have a treaded face on the front, giving you some

added style to your JK.

The tread will also be functional since unlike other slick, flat door guards, these will

not be nearly as slippery and will give you some better grip when you're stepping in and

out of the Jeep.

What I really like about these is that there's absolutely no drilling involved, unlike some

other options that do bolt in.

On the back, there's pre-laid 3M automotive grade tape so you can ensure that these aren't

going anywhere.

Now, this kit will be one of the most inexpensive options right around $40, right next to Crown

Automotive's option.

This will also be the lowest priced plastic option since the material and the design varies

with other choices on the page.

On average, it seems to range from $20 to even $120 for door sill guards for a 4-door

and the higher priced options will include premium brands like Mopar, and they offer

different metal finishes like stainless steel and extruded aluminum, which actually might

be a little bit more slippery than this treaded option.

They also will range in design, like billet designs, the Jeep logo stamped on the guard

and even an illuminated option that will give you some extra light when you're stepping

in and out of the Jeep.

If that's a little bit too much for your taste and you're only looking for some protection

accompanied by a treaded style for form and function, this will be your best and your

most affordable option.

There's really not much to this install, guys, since these just adhere with adhesive tape,

so I have to give this one a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter.

We're gonna begin by wiping the area down with alcohol prep pad to remove any dirt and

oils that may be on the surface, followed by wiping it down with a adhesion promoter

to make sure that the 3M tape sticks properly.

Next, you're gonna wanna remove the backing off the 3M tape, followed by aligning the

part up properly in place and carefully securing it down.

So, if you're looking for some extra trim to protect your JK, Rugged Ridge has you covered.

This is Merideth with XT, and you can find these door sill guards and everything else

Wrangler, right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge All Terrain Entry Guard Kit (2007-2018 JK 4 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 4:02.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Dual A-Pillar Light Mounting Brackets (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 5:12.

If you're looking for an affordable bolt-on A-pillar mount for some smaller off-road auxiliary

lights, and you don't wanna cut or drill into your Jeep, these Rugged Ridge dual light mounting

brackets are gonna be a good option for you and your '07 to '17 JK.

This dual-mount will allow you to mount two single post lights on each mount, giving you

four lights in total, as well as the flexibility of how the lights are set up.

You're able to mount different beams, like spot or flood, you can adjust the position

of the lights, and you can even mount different colors.

These are gonna mount directly to the A-pillar with the existing bolts, making these a very

easy one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and I'll tell you more about the install

in just a moment.

This might be a small mod, but this was definitely constructed with ruggedness and functionality

in mind.

Like I briefly hit on earlier, these mounts are able to specifically hold four single-post

small-body lights.

You'll be able to mount a variety of different lights in terms of size, shape, and brand,

but I would recommend you stick with a smaller LED light pod because that's what these mounts

are designed to accept.

I recommend taking a look at our Raxiom or Rugged Ridge 3-inch square pod LED lights,

which are just like the ones featured in the product page.

What I really like about this light mount is that you can choose different beam patterns

and adjust the light wherever you want the beam.

Floodlights are usually better to direct towards the sides and spot beams towards the front

so this gives you that flexibility to do so.

Some other options are constructed differently, where you're not able to adjust the lights

side-to-side, and only up and down, and this was well thought out, to allow that.

The mounts are made of heavy-duty steel with a black, textured, powder-coat finish that's

gonna resist any rust or corrosion, and provide a rugged look overall that will match, really,

any mod that you have on your Jeep.

The backs of these mounts have a rubber gasket to help prevent any contact between this steel

and the body of your Jeep, so that your paint is protected.

This has a perfect fit around the A-pillar curve and it reuses the bolts that are there

from the factory.

Speaking of that, I would like to note that this dual-mount is not compatible with the

50-inch LED light bar mounts, because the side wraps around the A-pillar, and it would

not fit properly with that curve.

If you are looking to mount a 50-inch LED light bar, I would recommend to check out

some of our other compatible options, like the dual-mounts offered by Off Camber by MBRP

that are compact.

These are one of the most affordable, adjustable, dual-light mounts on the site at this time,

costing right around $75.

This is not the least expensive dual A-pillar mount on the site overall, but compared to

those lower-priced options, they're not gonna have the full adjustability like these will,

and they won't allow you to rotate the light left or right.

Like I mentioned before, these are not compatible with most 50-inch LED light bar mounting options,

but we do have some more expensive mounts that will provide the compatibility and work

in conjunction with those mounts.

As always, with Rugged Ridge products, these mounts come with a five-year limited warranty,

giving you a peace of mind on the trails.

I personally think that, with all of the options that these mounts present, that they're definitely

worth the price.

This is gonna be a very simple one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and

will take you about 30 minutes to install just the mounts.

You're only gonna need a T40 torque bit, and a ratchet, or an impact wrench to make things

a little bit quicker.

The first step is to remove the two upper and front of the T40 torque bolts.

Next, we're going to install the A-pillar bracket using the previously removed T40 torque

bolts.

It's best to start these all in by hand first, to avoid cross-threading.

I'm currently tightening T40 torque bolts.

Repeat the same for the opposite side.

You have now successfully have completed the install of the Rugged Ridge dual A-pillar

light mount bracket.

So, if you're looking for an affordable and flexible dual off-road light mounting option,

these Rugged Ridge brackets are gonna be a good pick.

This is Meredith with XT, and for everything Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Dual A-Pillar Light Mounting Brackets (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 5:12.

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Jeep Wrangler Rough Country Tie Rod Upgrade Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review - Duration: 4:49.

The Rough Country Rough Country Tie Rod Upgrade Kit is for those of you that have a 1997 to

2006 TJ that are looking for a stronger tie rod without the additional cost of buying

one that has much stronger tie rod ends as well.

So if you're more interested in bend resistance when you're out hitting the rocks on the trail,

this is going to be a good option.

If you also want something that's going to be beefier on the tie rod end side of things,

so its tie rod ends aren't going to wear out as quickly, you're going to have to go with

a different system.

However, because this just includes the tie rod and not the ends, it is going to be less

expensive than some of those others available.

This is going to be a pretty easy install.

I'm gonna give it a one-out-three-wrench installation, maybe a little over an hour or right in that

area.

The thing that can make this installation a lot longer is if you have a lot of rust

and those factory tie rod ends don't wanna come out of that factory tie rod.

In that situation, you have a couple of choices.

You can eighter work on them to get them out or purchase new factory style tie rod ends

to use with this upgraded tie rod kit.

That choice is up to you.

And we will talk a little bit more about the installation in just a second.

So the tie rod is in an area where it can take a bitting, it can get bent if you're

offroad, you're crawling on the rocks.

If you do bend your tie rod, your toe will definitely be very far in and it can make

it difficult to even get off the trail, let alone to get home.

So having something stronger is going to help eliminate the concern that your tie rod might

bend and help eliminate any bends that might happen when you're out on the trail.

Like I said before, this is gonna be less expensive than the options that are even larger

and include heavier duty tie rod ends.

This is all about adding strength over what that factory tie rod is going to provide.

This is 1-1/4-inch DOM or drawn over mandrel tubing.

So it is a tube, it's not solid, but it's still going to be very, very strong.

This is the same type of material that they build roll cages out of, for instance, because

of its strength.

So this is designed to flex not bend and not break when it's under some serious stress

offroad.

Again, this will allow you to utilize your factory tie rod ends, which help to keep the

cost down.

So like I said, pretty easy install here, right around an hour, depending on how much

rust you have on your Jeep.

The first step is going to be removing that factory tie rod from your Wrangler.

In order to do that, you'll have to pull your cotter pins, remove your castle nuts, and

get the tie rod off of the steering knuckles.

Now, the best possible way to do this is to hit the steering knuckle on the flat spot

very hard with a large hammer perpendicular to the tie rod ends.

Do not smack down on the tie rod end.

Even if you leave the castle nut on there, there's always a chance that you're going

to mushroom the end of the tie rod, that you're going to cause damage to the threads, the

nut, whatever.

Especially with this setup, where you're reusing the tie rod end, you don't wanna do that.

The proper way to do it is to strike that steering knuckle perpendicular to the tie

rod end.

That will pop everything out of place.

Once you have that factory tie rod removed, you'll take a measurement end-to-end.

You'll remove the jam nuts and then the tie rod ends from the factory tie rod and screw

them into your new tie rod, making sure that you adjust the length so that it is the same

as your before length, tighten down your jam nuts, and install your new tie rod end into

the Jeep.

Now, if you have a tie rod end that has a little bit of wear in it, you're not going

to be able to tighten down the castle nut with a socket, it's just going to spin that

whole shaft inside the tie rod end.

You're going to have to use an impact in order to do that.

Once you're done, make sure you put those cotter pins back in the castle nuts to ensure

that nothing is going to wiggle loose.

Now, at this point, it's a good time to check your toe because you've just made some adjustments,

even if you measured very, very carefully, even if your new tie rod is the same length

as your old one, maybe your toe wasn't properly set before.

So a good time to check the toe.

That's something that's also very, very easy to adjust in your driveway.

You'll have to measure the distance between the front of the tires, the distance between

the rear of the tires, and then adjust your tie rod so that you get the proper amount

of toeing.

This tie rod upgrade kit is going to be around $85.

That is going to be one of the least expensive ones that you can find because, again, it

doesn't include the tie rod ends.

It's not for use with a larger, stronger tie rod end.

This is just for this factory tie rod ends.

It's definitely going to be a strength upgrade for you, but it's not going to do as much

for you as some of the more expensive options out there.

So if this is all you're looking for, this is a great option.

If you want something that's going to give you even more strength and bulkier and beefier

tie rod ends, you're gonna wanna go with one of those other kits.

So if you're looking for a stronger tie rod for your TJ, I would recommend taking a look

at this inexpensive option from Rough Country.

And you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rough Country Tie Rod Upgrade Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review - Duration: 4:49.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Lower Console Switch Panel (2011-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 3:20.

The Rugged Ridge lower console switch panel is for those of you that have a 2011 to 2018

JK that are looking for a spot to mount some auxiliary switches for lights, lockers, onboard

air systems, whatever you might need to add some additional switches for.

Now, this is going to be a switch panel that installs very easily into your Jeep, definitely

a one out three wrench install.

And the panel itself will install in 15 minutes or less, although the wiring involved may

take you a little bit longer.

And we'll talk more about that in just a second.

So if you're looking to mount some switches, you can do a couple of different things.

You can drill some holes in your Jeep to install your switches or you can go with a switch

panel like this one.

And if you wanna go with a switch panel, you can put it on the A-pillar, the B-pillar,

the upper dash, the lower dash, up above the windshield, in a overhead console.

There are a million different spots.

This is gonna be a pretty good spot because it's nice and easy to get to, it's not going

to impede your view at all, like sometimes the A-pillar lights, they can be a little

bit distracting to some people.

So this is gonna put the switches at a spot where they're gonna be very easy to reach,

they're not gonna be in the way at all.

And again, this panel doesn't require any drilling into your Jeep which is very nice

as well.

This is going to be a very fairly priced panel, in my opinion.

Again, this is just going to be the switch panel and not all the switches.

You can get it with the switches, of course, that's a little bit more money.

But for just the panel, I think this is going to be an easy to install option that's going

to be a great fit for a lot of you.

This is designed and built in a way that it really blends right into the interior of your

Jeep.

There's an existing panel you pop off.

You pop this into place.

And it does look like it could have come on your Jeep right from the factory.

So it's going to be a plastic panel.

It has the same type of texture and the same type of color to it as the rest of your interior.

So again, it blends in really, really well.

You're gonna be able to put up to five switches in here.

They're gonna be a standard size switch.

So no matter what type of switch you decide to go with, you're gonna be able to make it

work in there.

And no matter what type of accessory you're trying to run, this is going to be an excellent

spot to mount those switches.

This is a very simple one out of three wrench installation.

This should take you less than an hour to get the switch panel installed.

However, the actual wiring of the switches can take a little bit longer.

So the first step in the installation is going to be removing that lower panel that exists

on your Jeep.

That's just gonna pull off.

You can use a trim tool or a screwdriver to pry it and get rid of it.

Then, you're gonna go ahead and snap your new lower switch panel into place.

There is a small piece of premium adhesive that is also going to help to keep that from

moving around on you.

Now, before you do this installation, you wanna pull all your wires up in the position

and also install all your switches in the switch panel.

This switch panel will only run you $15.

Like I said, I think that's a pretty good deal.

You're gonna get a panel that does look good in your interior, puts the switches at a spot

where they are very easy to get to.

And because this doesn't come with the switches, you can put in there whatever type of switches

you want.

You can, of course, spend a little bit more and get this from Rugged Ridge with the switches

included.

So if you're looking for a convenient spot to mount up to five accessory switches in

your JK, I would definitely recommend this switch panel from Rugged Ridge.

And you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Lower Console Switch Panel (2011-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 3:20.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge 3 Piece Full Car Cover Kit (1987-2006 YJ & TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 5:13.

If you are looking for full coverage protection and you wanna add a bit of security to your

'97 to '06 TJ, this full car cover kit by Rugged Ridge will be just for you.

There are a lot of different covers on the market, but this one will offer full coverage

with the top on or off to protect the paint from any unexpected weather.

This is even good to just throw on the Jeep when it's sitting outside unused to protect

your factory paint from fading.

Or if the top is off, you can protect your interior from those harmful UV rays from the

sun.

Not to mention, this will also double with some security since it comes with a lock and

key and a cable that ties around the cover.

And I'll get more into that in just a bit.

Installing this isn't really an install, guys, since you just throw it on.

But I'll touch on that as well in just a moment.

This car cover is a combination of three heavy-duty layers of fabric to protect your TJ.

Rugged Ridge really did a good job at designing this with breathable polypropylene material

on the outside that will provide really good protection and will keep water and condensation

from forming underneath the cover.

The porous fabric will prevent any mold or mildew from forming, and it will even stop

ice from building up in the colder months.

On the inside, it has a soft fabric which is great for laying on your paint and preventing

any scratches or scuffs getting on the body of your Jeep.

What I like about this cover is that it comes with a handy bag as well as a lock and key

and cable system.

The bag makes it very convenient to keep this in the back of the Jeep, so whenever you need

it, you can just throw it on.

The cable system adds some security as well to the cover.

And it will feed through pre-existing holes in the bottom of the cover to keep it on tight.

So you won't be able to remove the car cover without unlocking it.

This makes it perfect so the cover is not blown off in the wind.

And it's perfect if you don't have any doors on your Jeep or just have trail doors installed,

so you can just flip up the side of the cover and have access to the inside of the Jeep.

With that, it has an elastic strap around the bottom to keep everything snug and tight.

And not to mention, this is an all the time cover that you can throw on over your hard

top or your soft top.

And it's big enough to fit over aftermarket light bars, aftermarket fenders and bumpers,

and even oversized tires.

This car cover is made of a combination of three heavy-duty layers of fabric to protect

you TJ.

Rugged Ridge really did a good job at designing this with breathable polypropylene material

on the outside that will provide really good protection and keep water and condensation

from forming underneath the cover.

The porous fabric will also prevent any mold or mildew from forming, and it will even stop

ice buildup in the colder months.

On the inside, it has a very soft fabric which is great for laying on your paint and preventing

any scratches or scuffs getting onto the body of the Jeep.

What I really like about this cover is that it comes with a handy bag as well as a lock

and key and cable system.

The bag makes it convenient to keep this in the back of the Jeep, so whenever you need

it you can just throw it right on the Jeep.

The cable system adds a bit of security to this cover and will feed through two pre-existing

holes in the bottom of the Jeep.

So it will lock tight and you won't be able to remove the cover without unlocking it.

This makes it perfect, so the cover is not blown off in the wind.

And it's also perfect if you don't have doors on your Jeep at the time or you have trail

doors installed, so you can't just flip up the side of the cover and have access to the

inside of the Jeep.

Not to mention, this is an all the time cover that you can throw on over your hard top or

your soft top.

And it's big enough to fit over light bars, aftermarket fenders, and bumpers, as well

as oversized tires.

Like I mentioned, there are a couple of different options for covers that we offer right now.

This one lands right in the middle of the road with price at about $100.

Covers can range anywhere from $50 to right around $250 depending if you want a full car

cover or if you're just looking for a cover to protect your cab area.

For a full car cover like this, we offer a couple by Rugged Ridge, that will include

a full car cover like this without the lock and key, as well as the bag.

And then, we also have a light weather car cover.

If you're looking for a more affordable chose and don't need as many options as this one,

those will also be great choices.

However, if you were looking for a something that has more than what this cover here offers,

Covercraft offers their premium and deluxe custom fit car covers that will be a little

bit of a jump in price.

But they also offer a custom fit as well as some strong protection and a warranty.

Overall, this is a great chose if you don't need all of the bells and whistles but still

want good protection and good security at a good price.

Like I mentioned, this isn't much of an install, but I still have to rate it.

And it gets a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter from me.

All you have to do is lay the car cover out to make sure it's oriented in the correct

way and throw the cover over the Jeep.

Once everything is positioned correctly, you can loop the cable through and lock it tight.

And you can enjoy your new car cover.

So if you're looking for some protection for your TJ, Rugged Ridge has your back.

This is Merideth with XT.

And you can find this and everything else Wrangler right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge 3 Piece Full Car Cover Kit (1987-2006 YJ & TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 5:13.

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Jeep Wrangler Smittybilt Extended Top - Black Diamond (2010-2018 JK 2 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 3:53.

This Smittybilt Extended Top in Black Diamond is for those of you that have a 2007 to 2010

two-door JK, that are looking for a safari-style top.

This top is going to go from the top of the windshield, all the way to the back of your

two-door JK, covering both the front seat and the back seat passengers, keeping the

rain and the sun off of you, but still giving you some of that open air driving experience

that we all know and love from our Jeeps.

This is a top that's going to install very easily onto your Jeep.

Definitely, a one out of three wrench installation.

And in fact, you won't even need any tools to get this done.

However, do keep in mind that you'll have to purchase Smittybilt's header in order to

get this installed.

You cannot install this with just what comes in the box.

You are going to have to purchase that header as well, but once you have that, this is something

that will install on your Jeep in about a half an hour or so.

Now, there are going to be quite a few different styles of top like this one.

There are going to be more of a bikini-style top that's just going to just cover between

the windshield and the first section of the sport cage.

This is more of that safari top, it goes all the way toward the back.

There are going to be versions that are like this, that are essentially a soft-top material

that will keep rain and 100% of the sun out.

Then there are going to be a more mesh-style top, that's going to let a little bit of the

sun in.

Of course, it's also going to let some water in.

So, you have a lot of different options to choose from when you're looking at this type

of top.

Again, this is gonna be more for those of you that are looking for a higher level of

protection than a mesh top, and want something that's still going to look very much like

a factory top.

Now, if you already have a soft top on your Jeep, this is gonna be pretty similar to just

removing the rear windows from your top, and leaving the rest of the top up.

However, if you have a hard top and you're still looking for some protection when you

have that top off, this is going to fit very nicely into what you're looking for.

As far as construction goes, this is going to be that same Black Diamond-style material

that a factory, non-premium OEM top would be made out of.

So, it is going to be weather resistant, it's also going to protect against the sun, it's

gonna hold up really well out in the weather.

It's overall going to be a pretty strong material that also looks very much like a factory top,

of course, without the parts that go down from the top to the tub in the back, and without

a spot to put any sort of window.

This is going to install very easily, like I said, with that header.

It comes with all of the straps and all the hooking and fasteners that you're going to

need to get this wrapped around your sport cage and attached, very securely.

This install, like I said before, is gonna be a one out of three wrenches.

In order to get it installed on your Jeep, you're going to have to pick up one of Smittybilt's

headers.

But once you have that, this is going to install very simply without the need for any tools.

You'll take that header and you'll snap it into place using these metal snaps, then attach

the header to the top of your windshield frame, and work from the front to the back, attaching

this as you go onto the sport cage, ensuring that everything is nice and tight so it doesn't

flap around.

This top's gonna run you right around $80, but do remember, you're also going to have

to pick up that header.

That's gonna add a little bit to your total cost of running this top.

Even with that header cost, this is going to be a very affordable top.

It's still going to be very well-built, but it's gonna be less expensive than some of

the other options out there, and it is going to do the trick.

So, if you're somebody who's looking for a top, maybe you don't want to run it all year

round, you just want something you can throw on a couple times a year, you wanna be able

to save a couple of dollars because you're not using this all the time, I think this

version from Smittybilt is gonna be a great choice.

So, if you're looking for a safari-style top for your two-door JK, I definitely recommend

taking a look at the Smittybilt Extended Top that you can find right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Smittybilt Extended Top - Black Diamond (2010-2018 JK 2 Door) Review & Install - Duration: 3:53.

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Jeep Wrangler Vividline Headlight LED Conversion Bulb Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 5:09.

This Raxiom Headlight LED Conversion Kit is for those of you that have a '97 to 2006 TJ

and are looking for a brighter LED bulb to put inside of an H4 conversion housing that

you already have.

Now, from the factory, your headlights are a sealed beam headlight, so you're not going

to be able to use these bulbs.

However, if you already have or you plan on getting an H4 conversion housing, then these

are going to work very, very well for you.

In general, these are going to be very, very easy to install.

If you already have that housing in place, you're just going to be able to give them

a quarter turn, snap them right in place.

They're going to plug right into your factory wiring harness, as they are an H4 setup, so

no need to cut wires, splice, or otherwise solder anything in place.

No wiring necessary, a simple plug and play installation.

I also think that these are going to be a set of bulbs that are very fairly priced for

what you're getting.

You're gonna get a ton of very bright light out of these, and you're gonna get a good

long life.

So, if you've swapped out your sealed beam headlights for an H4 housing, you probably

got it with one of a variety of different light sources.

They could be regular halogen.

They could be a xenon.

They may even be an HID or an LED bulb.

These LED bulbs though, I think, are really nice for a couple of different reasons.

One, they have a very large heat sink on the back, but they don't have a fan.

Some of the other lights out there have a fan that is used for cooling.

That's just one more thing that can break or go wrong.

This is a much simpler setup, so I prefer this over the ones that have moving pieces

for cooling.

This is also going to have your LED driver built right into the harness, and again, it's

gonna be directly plug and play with your factory wiring harness, as well as with that

conversion housing.

Now, they're gonna be a couple of different benefits to LED.

One is that you're going to get a very bright light and the other is that you're going to

get a lot of life out of that light.

Now, when you're talking about a very bright light, the other half of that is that it needs

to be very controlled light.

You don't want a ton of very bright light that's scattered everywhere that's gonna blind

oncoming drivers, that isn't putting that light where you as the driver can really utilize

it.

And part of that is going to come from your H4 housing.

If you have a high-quality housing, you're gonna get a nice light pattern, but the other

part does come very much from the bulb.

Now, these bulbs are designed so that the light source itself, that surface-mount LED

that's on this bulb, is placed where the filament would be placed on an incandescent bulb.

So, what that means is you're going to get a very similar light output pattern with this

LED bulb that you would with any other H4 bulb that you would put in that housing, and

that's very important.

Again, you don't want to be one of those guys that has a housing that you throw an HID bulb

in that doesn't fit properly.

Yeah, for you, from the driver's seat, you have a ton of light, but it's just gonna light

everywhere and you're blinding oncoming drivers.

This is not going to do that.

I really like the way that these LEDs are positioned on the bulb because you're going

to have one LED on one side, two on the other.

And what that means is as you go from low beam to high beam, you're not only going to

get a lot more light, but you're also going to get a different light pattern, which is

exactly how these bulbs are designed.

They're designed so that on the low beam, you have low controlled light.

When you have the high beams on, you do have a little bit more of a scatter, again, to

be used when there is no oncoming traffic.

And these are going to maintain that, just like any incandescent bulb would.

So, a lot of features that I really like about these bulbs in particular.

These are going to be putting out light at right around 6500 Kelvin, which is the color

temperature, which is going to be a very, very white, almost bordering on a blue-looking

light.

Definitely not going to be a daylight, but it's going to give you a very crisp and clean

light out in front of you when you're driving at night.

As far as the install goes, very simple one out of three wrenches.

It won't take you more than 10 minutes to pop these in place, of course, if you already

have those conversion housings installed on your Jeep.

If you don't, go ahead and follow the instructions for installing your conversion housings, and

then put these in place.

But again, if you already have those other housings in place, give the existing bulbs

a quick turn, pull them out the back, put these ones in the housing, quarter turn to

lock them in place, and then plug the wiring harness into the factory harness of your Jeep,

and you're done.

You'll want to go ahead and secure these drivers just so they're not flopping around.

You can use some 3M adhesive, use zip ties, do it however you choose to, but other than

that, this is very, very simple.

There's not a lot to this.

These LED bulbs are gonna run you right around $100.

And again, I do think that's gonna be a pretty fair price for what you're getting.

I like the design of these bulbs.

I think you're gonna get a lot of life out of them, they're an easy install, and they're

going to give you exactly what you're looking for when you're looking to swap to an LED

light, and that is a very bright light and a light that's going to last a good long time.

So, if you have H4 conversion headlights on your TJ and you're looking to upgrade to an

LED light source, I definitely recommend looking at these bulbs from Raxiom, and you can find

them right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Vividline Headlight LED Conversion Bulb Kit (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 5:09.

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Jeep Wrangler Raxiom Auxiliary/Backup Light Kit (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK) Review & Install - Duration: 5:39.

This Raxiom backup and auxiliary light kit is for those of you who that have a 1987 and

up Wrangler that are looking to add some reverse lights to your Jeep that are going to be triggered

automatically when you put the Jeep in reverse and also has a switch, so you can flip them

on whenever you need them.

This a kit that's going to install pretty easily onto your Jeep because it does come

with everything that you need to get it installed.

Although, there is going to be a little bit of splicing required to pick up that reverse

circuit so I am going to give it a two out of three wrenches.

And we'll talk more about the install in just a second.

Like I said, this is going to be a very, very complete kit.

It's going to have your two lights, it's going to have the wiring harness, the switch, everything

you need to get it installed.

However, you are going to pay for the convenience of having everything come in one box.

You can certainly piece together a reverse and auxiliary backup light system for a little

bit less expensive than this kit, but you are going to be doing a lot more legwork,

and you're going to be piecing something together and having to make it all work.

This is all going to be a plug-and-place setup with the exception of that reverse trigger

and this splicing you have to do there.

So again, for the convenience, you are going to pay a bit of a premium.

So this kit does have a couple of components.

The heart of the system is right over here.

You're going to have two LED backup lights.

Each of these lights has six individual LEDs inside of it.

These are going to be a 40-degree flood pattern.

They're not going to have quite the dispersion or quite the flood like some other lights

on the market, but 40 degree because you have two of these, it's still going to be plenty

of light, plenty of spread to light up the area behind you.

These can be mounted in the variety of different places.

You can drill a hole in the factory bumper, aftermarket bumper.

There are some brackets that will allow you to mount a light like this up on top of your

reverse lights.

You can put these on the roof rack.

You can really get creative.

Anywhere you're willing to drill a hole or purchase a bolt-on bracket, you can attach

these lights.

So that is going to be, like I said, really the heart of the system.

What ties all of that together is right over here.

This is your wiring harness.

You can see right here, you have two weatherproof connectors that are going to plug directly

into your lights.

You have your relay, your inline fuse, and you have the spot to attach your switch.

So you're going to have that switch on the inside of the Jeep.

You can flip that on and off.

That's gonna turn these lights on and off whenever you need them, but you're also going

to have a blue wire here that you're gonna splice in your factory reverse light circuit

and that's going to trigger these lights every time you put the Jeep in reverse.

So you can just shift in reverse, you don't have to worry about hitting the switch, but

if you are doing some camping, you're loading and unloading, you're hooking up a trailer,

whatever you're might be doing, and you need those lights on even when the Jeep isn't in

reverse, you have this switch.

So a very nice kit, a very complete kit, comes with everything you need.

Gonna be a fairly straightforward install as well.

So for the installation, again, two out of three wrenches.

It's probably going to take around two hours or so to get this installed.

The first step is going to be getting those lights mounted up.

Figure out where you want those.

You want them to be unobstructed, you're going to want them probably down low so that you

can see anything that you're backing up toward, but there are going to be a lot of different

locations that you can mount these.

And like I said before, you can drill a hole and get them bolted up or purchase a bracket

that will allow you to bolt these up without needing to drill.

Either way, you get your lights mounted up and you're done as far as that part goes.

After that, you're going to run your wiring harness.

That harness is going to have to go all the way back to the lights, get the lights plugged

in.

It's going to have to go all the way up into the engine bay to pick up the power at the

battery.

And finally, there's a leg of that harness that needs to get pulled through the firewall

in order to get your switch wired up in the dash.

So you run your wiring harness, you get that leg pulled through the firewall, figure out

where you wanna mount your switch.

Again, this is an area that you can either Dremel out a small spot in the dash and mount

your switch right in there, you can purchase an aftermarket pod to install that switch

so you don't have to do any cutting on your interior.

However, you wanna get your switch mounted up, you'll get that mounted up and get it

wired.

Now, the last thing you have to do before you actually get your wiring harness powered,

before you make those connections at the battery, is pick up your reverse light circuit, your

reverse light trigger.

And that's what's going to make it so these lights come on automatically every time your

Jeep is in reverse.

Now, the instructions are pretty clear with exactly where you pick up that wire.

You're going to have to take off a little bit of trim, find the wire, strip it out,

and make your connection of the blue wire here with that factory reverse light trigger.

Once that's done, that's the last part of your wiring.

You simply make your connection at your battery to positive and negative terminals and you're

done.

This kit is gonna run you right around $250.

And like I said before, that's gonna be a little bit more expensive than if you would

just to piece something together with similar components.

You are gonna pay premium for the convenience of everything coming together, having the

weatherproof connectors.

This being a pretty much plug-and-place setup aside from that one bit of splicing that you

have to do, you are gonna pay a little bit more.

Now, if you're somebody who's comfortable with automotive wiring, you understand how

all these things work together, you can go out there and piece a kit together for a little

bit less.

But if you're somebody who's not comfortable with that or you just wanna pay for the convenience

of having everything coming in one box, really a one-stop shop, then this is going to be

a great option.

So if you're looking for a one-stop shop, very convenient reverse light and auxiliary

light setup for your Jeep, I definitely recommend this setup from Raxiom, and you can find it

right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Raxiom Auxiliary/Backup Light Kit (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK) Review & Install - Duration: 5:39.

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Jeep Wrangler Deegan 38 by Gibson Split Rear Axle-Back Exhaust (2007-2018 JK) Sound Clip & Install - Duration: 6:50.

This Deegan 38 by Gibson Split Rear Axle-back Exhaust for the 2007 and up JK is really for

those that are looking for a high-quality exhaust system from a well-known name.

It's gonna give you a nice round, rich tone without any sort of drone, and also, somebody

who has the budget for one of these more premium exhaust systems.

This is going to be one of the pricier systems that you can purchase, especially for a system

that is still aluminized steel.

As far as the installation, this is going to be very, very simple, definitely a bolt-on

install, one out of three wrenches, can be done in as little as an hour depending on

how much rust you have on your JK.

There's really just one clamp and one slip fitting that you need to undo here to get

your old system off and the new system on, so, assuming there's no rust, very, very simple.

If there is, a little bit more difficult, and we'll talk a little bit more about that

in just a second.

So, when you're looking at exhaust systems, you're gonna have a couple different choices.

You're going to have something that is basically a factory-like muffler that's just going to

give you a little bit more sound, and it's going to be a single exit.

Then you're going to have something like this, which is a dual exit, just giving you a little

bit more attitude.

A lot of these systems will come in black, but also an uncoated metal, so, this being

black, it's gonna, again, give you a little bit more attitude than some of the other systems

out there.

And, then there are systems that are going to be completely different from factory.

They're going to be more of your high clearance, your rock crawler systems.

A lot of those are also gonna be a little bit louder just because of the way that they're

laid out.

There's less piping, they use more of a bullet-style muffler.

They got rid of the resonator.

If you're looking for something a little bit more serious, you want something that has

less pipe to crush off-road, we have those systems available.

This is going to be more of a direct replacement with some additional frills that is there

to give you a lower and louder exhaust.

This one is also going to give you a little bit more attitude, thanks to the slightly

larger tips, and, of course, the black finish.

Like I said, this is going to be one of the pricier systems that you'll find that is an

aluminized steel.

A lot of the other systems that are up in this price range you're going to find are

going to be stainless steel of one variety or another.

This system is built a lot like the other axle-back systems in the fact that it uses

mostly two and a half inch mandrel bent tubing.

The fact that it is mandrel bent essentially just means that there's a piece on the inside

of the tubing as well as on the outside during the bending process, and that's to keep the

tubing from kinking, which can limit exhaust flow, so these are going to flow very well.

You don't have any kinks in any of these bends, and, again, it's two and a half inches because

that's what the output is.

It just makes sense to have everything match up.

You are going to have a four inch tip here that is slash-cut, little bit bigger than

on some of the other systems out there.

Still going to have the same black high-temp coating as the rest of the system, and the

muffler itself, really the meat and the potatoes of the system, is going to give you that nice

low and loud exhaust note that you're after.

This whole system is going to use your factory hangers, which, again, is pretty traditional

for a aftermarket axle-back, making it very, very easy to install.

You're going to have all the hardware, all the clamps, everything that you need to get

this installed.

I said it a couple times now, this system is going to be aluminized steel.

Some of the other systems in this higher-end price range are going to be either a 409 or

even a 304 stainless, so they're going to hold up a little bit better.

Aluminized steel, when it's coated like this, absolutely fine.

You're not going to have any issues with it.

If you do end up with some of the coating coming off, you can end up with some rust

on aluminized steel that you wouldn't otherwise get on a stainless steel muffler.

Definitely a one out of three wrench bolt-on installation, you'll only need an hour to

get this installed assuming your factory system comes off very easily, and, if you know anything

about exhaust systems, they like to get rusty.

They like to fight you a little bit.

Make sure you spray the connection point between your factory axle-back and the actual output

pipe, the over-axle tailpipe of your Jeep with a good penetrating oil well before you

get started with this installation, it's gonna make things a little bit easier.

And, if you can jack up the back of the Jeep a little bit to give yourself a little bit

more room, then once you get these hangers undone and you get your clamp undone, you

can use a twisting motion that'll help you get everything done.

So, like I said, there is one clamp here you'll have to undo.

You'll also undo these hangers, and then twist, pull, pry, cut, bang, whatever you need to

do to get that factory system out of the way.

Once it is out of the way, it's a very simple matter of sliding the new system into place

using your factory hangers here to hang it underneath the Jeep.

Use the clamp that is included to attach it to that tailpipe, and, finally, attach your

tips onto the muffler using the included hardware.

This system is just shy of $550, which is going to be more expensive than some of the

other systems out there that are a dual-outlet axle-back like this one.

Again, you can find some stainless systems, which generally are the more expensive ones,

that are going to be right around this price range, where this one is going to be aluminized

steel, which is a little bit of a lower level of material.

If you don't plan on beating this thing up too bad, if you plan on keeping this coating

in good condition, you're not going to end up with any sort of rust problems from the

outside.

If you like the Gibson sound, if you like the four inch slash-cut tips, if you like

everything else about this system, and you don't have as many concerns about longevity

because the way you plan on using the system and where you live, if you're not in the Salt

Belt, this is going to be a great system.

If you are in an area where you end up with a lot of rust, then maybe you want to look

at one of the stainless systems for right around the same price.

So, if you're looking for a lower and louder exhaust note, as well as a little bit more

attitude from the back of the Jeep, I would recommend taking a look at this Gibson exhaust

system that you can find right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Deegan 38 by Gibson Split Rear Axle-Back Exhaust (2007-2018 JK) Sound Clip & Install - Duration: 6:50.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge Hi-lift Jack Mounting Bracket (2007-2018 JK & JL) Review - Duration: 3:54.

The Rugged Ridge Hi-lift Jack Mounting Bracket is for those of you that have a 2007 and up

JK that are looking for a nice, easy bolt-on bracket that will allow you to hold a farm

style or a hi-lift style jack on the exterior of your Jeep.

Those jacks can come in handy when you're on the trail for getting you out of a sticky

situation, but they come in a couple of different lengths, and some of the bigger ones can be

a little bit tough to store on the inside of your Jeep.

So if you're looking to free up a little bit of space on the interior, mounting on the

exterior is a great idea, and this bracket makes it very, very easy.

This is going to be a one out of three wrench installation.

This won't take you more than an hour to get bolted onto your Jeep, maybe even a little

bit less than that, and we'll walk you through the installation in just a second.

So if you are mounting your jack on the exterior of your Jeep, you do have to make sure that

you maintain it.

If you leave it out in the weather, especially if you live in the Rust Belt, like we do,

the jack isn't going to work for you when you need it.

You need to make sure that you keep it greased up, keep it lubricated, so it is going to

work for you.

That being said, mounting on the outside is going to free up a lot of space on the interior

of your Jeep, and again, if you're looking for an exterior bracket, I love the fact that

this one is completely bolt-on and fairly priced.

This is going to be a steel bracket covered in a textured powder coat finish that's going

to help it resist any sort of rust or corrosion.

It is drilled and designed to work directly with that factory tailgate and your factory

tailgate hinges and bolt directly up without the need to drilling holes in your Jeep.

So that is going to make install very, very simple.

Once you have this bolted down, you have an area here with this large thumbscrew up top

that will clamp the top part of the jack in place.

Down here, you have another thumbscrew that will hold the foot in place so it's not going

to vibrate and move around.

You have a hole drilled up here so that you can use a padlock or a cable lock, even if

you wanted to, to ensure that nobody's going to walk away with your jack.

So this is just a very well thought out, very well engineered piece.

So like I said, one out of three wrenches here for the installation, right around an

hour.

This is going to be a bolt-on installation in the fact that you don't have to drill any

holes in the body of your Jeep.

However, there is a plastic cover over your factory hinge that will need a couple of holes

drilled in it.

There is a very convenient template that comes right in the install instructions for this

mounting bracket that makes drilling those holes very, very easy.

I don't think many of you will have an issue drilling those holes right in your driveway.

So what you're going to do is attach the template onto that plastic cover, drill those holes,

pop the cover off, get it out of the way.

You're going to have to remove a couple of torques bolts that are in the hinge holding

the tailgate to the hinge.

Before you do that, you'll want to support the other end of your tailgate, make sure

nothing's going to move, and everything is going to line up very nicely for you once

you're finished.

Then, you'll attach a mounting bracket first, and then finally, your larger mounting bracket,

the part that actually holds the jack into place, tightening down all of your hardware.

Then you can get your actual jack attached onto the mounting bracket.

As with anything else, you'll want to go back and re-torque all of your hardware after you've

driven for about 500 miles or so, and keep an eye on things after your first off-roading

trip.

We all know you can induce a lot of vibrations when you're off-road, and you want to make

sure nothing's going to vibrate loose.

This hi-lift mounting bracket comes in at right around $100.

I do think that's a pretty fair deal for what you're getting here.

I think there was a lot of thought and a lot of engineering that went into this product

to make it very, very user-friendly.

I also think that it is built very strong.

It's going to hold up to the abuse that it's going to take holding that heavy jack and

bouncing around on the road and on the trail.

So overall, I think this is a good buy.

So if you're looking for a bolt-on bracket to mount your hi-lift jack on the exterior

of your Jeep, I definitely recommend taking a look at this bracket from Rugged Ridge,

and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.