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So, I have done a lot of work to my S197 essentially from bumper to bumper, but I'm here to tell

you today that if you're on the fence about swapping out your '05 to '09 GT's factory

two-piece driveshaft, please do it.

The Ford Performance one-piece aluminum shaft is a huge upgrade in a few ways.

First thing's first, it will reduce all that driveline vibration which the S197 is known

for.

It will dramatically reduce the rotational weight of the factory shaft which kills power

to the wheels, and it will take out all that slop and clunk in your drivetrain, especially

if you drive a manual like me.

Now, install is a bit of a squeeze and we wanna make sure this is done right because

it is a main driveline component, so I'm gonna go ahead and give this a strong two out of

three wrenches on my patented difficulty meter, and if you take your time, it should take

you about three hours.

Now first thing's first, the Ford Performance shaft will definitely make a big difference

in acceleration and pedal feel, as some customers have stated and as I just mentioned, and that's

because this driveshaft actually weighs about half as much as the factory one.

With the carrier bearing, the bolts, the flange, the spacers, you're looking at a boat anchor

weight of about 46 pounds.

Now, if you install the Ford shaft and you will find that that knocks it down to 23 pounds.

Keep in mind that rotation amplifies weight.

So, you're actually reducing even more weight while you're rolling around.

Now, you're also removing that center joint which is another torque damper, so you are

getting more power transferred to your wheels.

Now, the second thing I like about the Ford shaft is how tight and composed it is.

Ford says that they use this two-piece setup with that carrier bearing and all sorts of

vibration reducing components.

But once these things wear in, they tend to get loose.

And with a looseness comes that easy pinion angle change and a change in pinion angle

causes all sorts of vibrations when you're coasting and accelerating.

Now, if you feel vibration and humming at highway speeds, it is most likely your factory

shaft.

Again, as customer reviews have said, this drive shaft really does help to fix all of

that slop and vibration.

Now, the last two reasons that I really like the Ford shaft are because of who it comes

from and the price.

Ford Racing is pretty much the gold standard.

If you want something that works well and is guaranteed to work with the rest of your

car's components and honestly, a little over $600 is pretty tough to beat.

At this price, the Ford shaft is actually one of the most affordable options available,

and you are still getting a custom balanced shaft as you can see from the weights here,

and you're also getting some very nice and much more capable Dana Spicer joints on either

end.

All right, now that I've talked your ear off, let's get into the install.

Like I said, my car's driveshaft joints are pretty much bust.

I'm actually getting a lot of nasty sounds every time I change gears and put any torque

through my driveline.

So, I'm gonna toss out that crappy two-piece and replace it with this nice Ford shaft.

Again, this is a two out of three wrenches but you can definitely tackle this at home

because in the end it is just a couple of bolts and nuts.

So, let's go ahead, get into the garage and get started.

To install your Ford Performance driveshaft, you will need the following tools: a torque

wrench, a three-eighths drive ratchet, a 13 millimeter wrench, a 10 millimeter socket,

a 12 millimeter 12 point socket, a 12 millimeter 12 point deep socket, a 13 millimeter socket,

an extended Allen head socket, a long extension, a short extension, a swivel, locking compound,

and optional but certainly helpful, some lubricating oil or penetrating oil and an air gun.

So, we've got my car in the garage, we're gonna go ahead and throw it up on the lift.

Before you get started, make sure your vehicle is in neutral and your parking brake is off

that way you can rotate your factory driveshaft and get to all the bolts that you need to

get to with your tools.

All right, we're gonna start up here at the transmission flange.

These are 12 point 12 millimeter bolts so you're gonna wanna use a 12 point socket.

All right, so we pulled our transmission flange bolts out.

You're gonna reuse those, so make sure you soak them in some PB Blaster or a little bit

of a lubricant, take any grime off of them.

Now, we're gonna tackle our pinion flange on the differential, and these are 10 millimeter

head bolts.

All right, the pinion flange on our differential is also unbolted now.

The last step is unbolting the carrier bearing up here, that's gonna be 2 13 millimeter head

bolts.

All right, we're gonna pull the last bolt holding the carrier bearing and thus the driveshaft

to the vehicle.

Take your time pulling this out, it's the last piece of hardware that's actually holding

the driveshaft to the vehicle.

Once you pull it out, let the driveshaft rest on your exhaust.

All right.

So, with your driveshaft free, you can go ahead and maneuver out from underneath the

vehicle.

All right, before we install our new driveshaft, we're gonna clean up the pinion flange and

we're gonna clean up our transmission flange with a little bit of PB Blaster, make sure

we have a nice, clean surface to mate our new driveshaft to.

While you have the driveshaft out of the vehicle, this is also a good opportunity to check inside

of the pinion flange, make sure you don't have any leaking gear oil.

And you can also check your backlash, make sure you don't have any excessive play.

All right, now that both of our flanges are cleaned up, we're gonna go ahead and install

our new driveshaft.

You're gonna put the new one in the same way the old one came out.

You're just gonna kind of put it up through the exhaust pipes, let it rest there while

you bolt up the pinion flange first.

All right, so with the driveshaft seated, you're gonna grab the two larger bolts provided

in the kit and you're gonna put them inside of the pinion flange end of the driveshaft

before you seat it into the differential itself.

Once you have everything lined up, you're gonna go ahead and hand tighten these two

bolts.

Now that our new driveshaft is hand tightened to the pinion flange in the rear, we're gonna

go ahead and secure it to the transmission flange up front.

For this, you're gonna reuse those 12-point bolts you pulled out earlier.

Before you reinstall those, make sure you apply some threadlocker to the threads.

Now that your transmission flange is hand tightened and flush, we're gonna tighten these

down, ensuring that the pinion side of our driveshaft is flush with the differential.

For that you're gonna need a 13 millimeter wrench.

Now once you have these tight enough, the whole driveshaft should turn.

That lets you know you're in a good place.

Then we can go ahead and install the other four bolts in the kit.

With our driveshaft flush against our pinion flange, we're gonna go ahead and hand tighten

the other four Allen head bolts provided in the kit.

All right.

Once those are hand tightened, we're gonna grab our Allen key.

We're gonna go ahead and drive them home before we use our torque wrench.

With our driveshaft seated clearly and the pinion flange in the rear and everything hand

tightened, we're gonna go ahead and torque everything down to spec.

Up front on the transmission flange, you're gonna wanna tighten these 4 bolts down with

76-foot pounds in a star pattern.

And to make this easier on ourselves, we're gonna go ahead and use a small extension.

That way we can ensure we're clearing everything in here and we get a nice seat with our socket.

To make this even easier on yourself, you wanna put your car in gear.

That way the transmission locks up the drivetrain so your driveshaft isn't turning on you while

you're trying to tighten all this stuff down.

All right, since our car is in gear, we weren't able to reach all of the bolts up front on

the transmission flange.

So, what we're gonna do, we're gonna tackle the ones in the rear that we can reach, and

those are gonna be tightened down to 41-pound feet.

Once we have those tackled, we're gonna put our car in neutral, rotate the driveshaft

so we can finish up the front and the rear.

All right, we're gonna go ahead and mark the ones that we've already tightened down with

a marker.

That way once we rotate our driveshaft, we'll know which ones are left over.

All right, so we unlocked our drivetrain, we rotated our driveshaft and we're gonna

go ahead and torque down this last unmarked bolt in the rear, same deal with the front.

All right, so with the last of those bolts tightened up on your pinion flange and your

transmission flange, that should actually wrap up the install.

That also wraps up my review of Ford's one-piece aluminum driveshaft, fitting your '05 to '09

GT.

I'm Travis.

Thanks for watching.

And for all things Mustang, keep it right here at americanmuscle.com.

For more infomation >> 2005-2010 Mustang GT Ford Performance One-Piece Aluminum Driveshaft Review & Install - Duration: 14:08.

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Ford Speed Sensors - Duration: 2:44.

hi welcome to monster transmissions you're in Curts corner we get a lot of

tech questions here coming into the company and today we're going to go over

the speed sensor differences on an AODe or a 4r70w and also known as a 475

there are different speed sensors and different setups based on the year of

your application so this is an earlier generation which could be an AODe or

470 W goes from 1992 all the way up to 2001 and in 2001 they changed the design

of the speed sensor and also the pickup for the speed sensor on the son shell on

the inside this has a single speed sensor on the case it's molded into the

case right here and it has a unique or oval shaped connector on the harness so

this will have one speed sensor again 92 up to 2001 and then in 2001 Ford decided

we're going to change it up and we're going to go with the input and output

speed sensor so the later units have a multiple multiple speed sensors on the

case so they had initially just one and then later they ended up having an input

and an output speed sensor so the the shape of this is more of a square

pattern and the harness connection is different so you cannot use a later unit

or later speed sensor unit on an earlier application or vice-versa so it's very

critical 2001 is the change year and that's you really need to look at the

harness connections to ensure you order the correct unit so this is the early one

92 to 2001 and it's more of an oval shaped pattern so this is the early one

and the late one the rare sensor which is the one you're concerned about

there's a more of a squared pattern okay so the harness connection to the sensors

are different as well as the patterns that are not interchangeable and also

again the Sun shell in these two units are different so you have to have a

correct Sun shell to match up with this because there's a magnetic and non

magnetic Sun shell so there are physical difference to the transmission

and electronic differences but the key difference comparing speed sensors is

early and late this is 2001 on up to even up to 2015 and this is early 1992

to 2001 if you have further technical questions you can give us a call toll free

1-800-708-0087 Looking forward to speaking to you then.

For more infomation >> Ford Speed Sensors - Duration: 2:44.

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Ford Everest 2.5 A/T | SUV 7 chỗ, gầm cao, máy dầu, số tự động đáng chọn (508tr) - Duration: 19:59.

For more infomation >> Ford Everest 2.5 A/T | SUV 7 chỗ, gầm cao, máy dầu, số tự động đáng chọn (508tr) - Duration: 19:59.

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Dominant 2018 Ford F-150 Power Stroke diesel scores 30 mpg EPA highway rating - Duration: 4:47.

Ford's F series diesel engine hit the company's fuel economy target.

The 2018 Ford F-150 Power Stroke diesel scored a 30 mpg highway EPA rating, Ford Motor Company

(FMC) announced today.

The best-selling truck (or car) in the United States for many years running, the 2018 Ford

F-150 can now claim the highest EPA-estimated highway fuel rating bragging rights for a

full-sized pickup truck.

Ford revealed the 30 mpg highway target earlier this year.

At the same time, FMC proudly claimed the 2018 F-150's 3.0-liter Power Stroke V6 turbodiesel

engine in the F-150 would have bragging rights for best-in-class 250 diesel horsepower, 440

pound-feet of torque, 11,400-pound towing capacity, and 2,020 payload capacity.

The EPA estimates diesel-powered 2018 Ford F-150s with rear-wheel-drive will achieve

22 mpg city, 30 mpg highway, and 25 mpg combined, according to Ford.

Four-wheel drive diesel 2018 F-150's have EPA-estimated ratings of 18 mpg city, 25 mpg

highway, and 21 mpg combined, according to The Car Connection.

Ford is pumped about hitting its EPA highway mileage target.

"Even a few years ago, customers wouldn't have imagined an EPA-estimated rating of 30

mpg highway would be possible in a full-size pickup, but our team of crazy-smart engineers

rose to the challenge," said Hau Thai-Tang, Ford executive vice president of product development

and purchasing.

The 2018 F-150 with the Power Stroke V6 also scores best-in-class 11,400 pounds diesel

towing power.

The 2,020-pound highest diesel payload capacity is for fleet ordered F-150 XL and XLT configurations.

Retail market diesel trucks have a 1,940-pound payload.

General Motors (GM) and Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (FCA) aren't sitting back while Ford adds

a diesel option to its medium-duty pickups.

The manufacturers of the respectively and perennial second- and third-best-selling Chevy

Silverado and RAM pickup trucks in the U.S. announced new pickup powertrains in January.

The 2019 RAM 1500's carryover 3.6-liter Pentastar V6 adds eTorque, a 48-volt mild

hybrid.

The eTorque system will provide a small power boost, power electrical accessories, and bump

up the engine's start-stop system.

Chevy is going after the diesel market with a 3.0-liter Duramax turbodiesel inline-six

for the 2019 Chevrolet Silverado.

The 2019 RAM and 2019 Silverado pickups have yet to be reviewed or EPA-rated.

Power for towing and payload are the strongest draws for diesel truck buyers.

High fuel economy, historically the most compelling factor for diesel car owners, hasn't been

as big a pull for truck owners.

Now, however, customers shopping for full-sized pickup trucks with the most grunt can seemingly

have it all and add fuel-economy to their list of check-off boxes.

But diesel-powered F-150s will require extra coin.

Fans awaiting the Power Stroke V6 option for the 2018 Ford F-150 can expect to pay up to

$4,000 extra for a truck with the diesel powerplant, the Car Connection reports.

Dealers started taking orders in January for delivery starting

in May.