Auto news on Youtube Apr 27 2018

The 2018 Jeep Wrangler has an all-new redesigned soft top so what changes did

they make to help prevent water leaks let's find out.

Welcome back my name is Brandon Haneline your Jeep Informant and if this

is your first time here and you want to learn more about the all-new 2018 Jeep

Wrangler make sure you subscribe with the bell so you don't miss any new

information. Alright guys today we're gonna take a look at the all new

redesigned soft top now we've all seen how easy it is to fold the top back and

pull the windows out but have we seen the changes that they made for the water

management system. Let's take a look, now let's talk about where we've seen water

leaks in the past now we've always seen it in the driver's or passenger side

floor board and then we've also seen it on the a-pillar dripping down onto the

event area now if you have a leak in one of these areas that doesn't mean that

you only have one problem in that area there could be multiple issues that

cause it to leak from these two different areas now let's go ahead and

take a look at some of the differences between the jail and the JK so first off

let's take a look at the JK door seal now as you can see here this has very

nice structure to it and it's very firm and there's a nice stuffer in there that

whenever you shut the door it seals tightly now they've done this because in

the past we've had issues leaking right here so they made this this area right

here nice and structured so we wouldn't have any leaks but if you take a look at

this JL you'll be very surprised to see that when I run my fingers up through

this door seal you'll see right there there is a no structure at all in that

corner door seal and I'm really surprised they didn't carry that over

from the JK with the stuffers you know I really think we'll have a potential

water leak right there in the future just like we did with the JK in the past

now let's go ahead and move our way on up the door seal and as you can see

right there I can feel one stuff around that and this is nice and tight in there

and that actually seals up against that a pillar mucket which we'll talk about

in a minute now check this out right there that's where this stuff er

on the inside of that seal ends and you can see it there by the markings

as you can see those ribs in that door seal do serve a purpose in the aid of

sealing up against the body now this corner seal is important also

and this is what it's supposed to look like it looks very nice alright let's

make our way on up the JL door seal and see if we can find where this stuff or

starts and you can see right right there that's where it starts right there and

we move around the corner and you can see right there that's where it is check

that out this kind of like a like kind of like a hump right there almost and if

you run your finger across it there you can feel it you know drop down and as

you can see also this dorsal doesn't have those ribs in it like the JK did

and they did redesign this corner here do not be so flimsy as you can see and

it looks very nice so let's move on to the dripper I'll check this out and as

you can already see major major changes to the JL look at the gap difference

between the header seal and the end of the drip rail what a major improvement

on the jail this is huge guys so what this means is when you open the door

you're not going to get as much drip into the floorboard as the older JK

model now if you want to see the difference between the two jails hard

top and soft top I'll leave a link up in the top right corner I'll go over that

in a different video all right let's get that door open and let's take a look at

this header seal where it meets the front corner of the door and as you can

tell the jail is a lot smoother in transition there and you can see the

ribs there on the JK that that are on the actual door seal there now you're

definitely going to get a better look at this header seal once we get the top up

and you can see where the the soft top bracket sits down into that a pillar

bucket but for right now let's move up and show you the difference between the

header seals with the top closed now in previous years on the JK when we had

water leaks in the a pillar what would happen there is water we get in between

the windshield frame and the actual header itself that rubber there and when

it come down it would come out the AE pillar right there in that area now when

water gets in between the actual soft top and the rubber the header self

itself there's actually a water management

for that and we'll see that when we lift the top up so before we do that let's

take a look at the jaeil and see what that header shield looks like with the

top down now as you can see they've done a very nice job this premium soft top

here looks great and a ceiling very nice up against that header seal

now the big difference between these two is gonna be the water management system

when water gets in between the actual header seal and the soft top now let's

go ahead and get the top up on this JK and we'll take a look at that header

seal and see how that water management system is designed now on this little

hook right here this will latch the little hook right there

they made a change to that on the JL so we'll take a look at that here in a

minute so get that soft top back let's take a look at this header seal here so

when water gets passed it's a soft top in between the the rubber and this

fabric it has this channel that it runs down into and which is designed to do

that and and then the water falls down into this other channel that's in the

door here okay and travels down through that a pillar on the door and it's

channeled to the outside of that door seal so where we seen the problem in the

past is when water gets in between the windshield frame and the actual header

seal when water gets in between there it actually comes out on let me take a look

here on the backside of this rubber okay and when it comes in on the backside of

the rubber it's on is it's on the inside now okay so it's gonna come out there

it's gonna come out several different places but in that AE pillar areas where

it's gonna come out so let's see what changes they made on the JL to prevent

this now as you can see there those latches I was telling you about right

there that little hook is spring-loaded and Jeep made an awesome job of being

able to lift that soft top up with just one hand and no problem now if you take

a look here at this header seal it looks completely different now it still has

that channel right there but you can see there's there's body paint in between

there so what's gonna happen here is when water gets past the soft top it's

gonna run down into this channel and then go to the left or to the

whichever way the vehicle is tilted and it's gonna come down in here to this

corner and where does it go now it goes right down into this new like the

sunroof drain type of thing guys this is awesome

now this is new to the hardtop and the soft-top both now it doesn't go off to

the side like the old JK did it's gonna go down into this drain now I'll show

you what that drain exits here in just a minute

so make sure you keep watching now what I'm curious to note is what happens with

you get water in between the actual windshield frame there and the header

seal does it still come down this trough here so let's take a look and can't peel

this back and see maybe where it might go now if you take a look right back in

there it's actually just gonna come down in that trough is actually right there

it's gonna come out of that hole right there

and then go right down into that drain now since the windshield frame is

separate than the actual row bar there then obviously the windshield can fold

down and the water management system stays with the windshield now if you

look here between the windshield frame and the roll bar the sunroof drain is

down in that crack there and it runs all the way down to the side of the fender

and it comes out right in this area now when I was up here looking at this

header seal I thought to myself if I was to add a hardtop to this vehicle where

would it drain at because the hardtop has one of these drain tubes and also

just like the front does now if you were to install a hardtop it would sit about

right in this area so I'm trying to figure out where the heck this thing

dreams at so if you look up underneath the vehicle in between the front two

doors you'll see this guy right here now that's the actual drain for the hardtop

but we have a soft top so this lets me know that jeep has prepped the soft tops

with a hardtop installation drain somewhere I've just gotta find it so I'm

looking around everywhere for this thing and can't really find a place where it

looks like it would be prepped for this drain so what do we do we use the handy

dandy smoke machine so what I'm going to do now is I'm actually going to you can

see the smoke coming out of there I'm actually going to stick this up into

that too drain their and we're gonna look for the

smoke to see where it comes out at and this will tell me exactly where it's at

alright pop that in there now let's go up top and see where it's coming out at

now there's some smoke right there fudge where the heck is it coming out it looks

like it's coming out from up underneath that soft top bracing there so that's

gonna have to come off handy-dandy tool kit to the rescue here we go alright

let's go ahead and take I think there's two screws that got to take out and

we're going to use that Torx bit and these are the same bolts that you would

need to take out if you're going to install a hard top these you would have

to remove this this bracing here before you put the hardtop on so they get this

cool little hinge thing that when you pull the bolt that see it hinge down

right there that's that's a new design also all right so let's carefully remove

this soft top bracing here we're gonna just slide it out from there and then

just give it just a little tug here and pulls right out and look at there how

about that there it is alright so what we have here actually makes sense I

didn't even think about it but the hard top is going to sit right down on top of

that b-pillar mucket which is gonna seal with that little oval right there and

then that b-pillar mucket has the drain attached to it going down to the bottom

of the vehicle so that was a pretty interesting find there that answers

several questions that I had so when I got this thing back together take a look

at this b-pillar mucket as you can see here this kind of hangs down a little

bit and it was like that before also and I noticed it and I don't really think

that that could be an issue on the front door but I do think it definitely could

be an issue on the back door so like if it was to hang down a little bit right

here like this I'm just gonna pull it down for example and show you over time

it may start to hang down and you go and close the door and check that out it's

folded totally folded up underneath there

now right there you got yourself a water leak in the rear floorboard I guarantee

you that and let that sit out in the Sun for several hours and that thing will be

you know deformed that way and that b-pillar muck it would have to be

replaced after that to fix it now if you've got a leak on the driver's or

passenger side floorboard definitely check right here to make sure this

sealing properly now if you've got a water leak coming from the a-pillar area

I would definitely check those windshield drains to make sure that

they're not clogged up also if you have a leak in the rear floorboard definitely

check that b-pillar muck it to make sure it's not folded over other than that

guys Jeep has done a phenomenal job with this new soft top design the water

management system is far far better than the previous JK version now if you have

any questions or concerns about your soft top make sure that you comment down

below and I'll respond as soon as I can with the most accurate information now I

hope you're smarter about this new water management system then you were before

you started watching this video and I do want to thank each and every one of you

for watching this long and give me a thumbs up if you're still here I

appreciate you guys and I got a lot of good stuff to come here in the next week

or so so we'll talk to you later have a great day

For more infomation >> JK vs JL 💦Soft top changes for water Leaks 💦Jeep JL 2018 Wrangler (Old vs New) - Duration: 12:30.

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Jeep Wrangler Omix-ADA Black Steel Door Paddle Handle (1987-2006 YJ LH & TJ RH) Review & Install - Duration: 3:39.

These Omix-ADA Black Full-Steel Door Pedal Handles are for those of you that have a 1987

to 2006 TJ that are looking for a replacement handle, and these are going to fit your YJ

or your TJ, however, they're going to be different skews because the door handles are reversed

on those two vehicles, so just make sure you read carefully and get the proper handle for

your application.

Now, as I said, these are going to be for those of you that need a replacement because

yours are starting to rust, they're bent, they're just not working properly anymore.

This is going to be something that is an easy one out of three wrench install because it

will attach directly onto your Jeep without any modifications necessary.

However, the install process can be a little bit of a headache because you're working inside

the door, so give yourself a little bit of extra time, and we'll talk through the installation

a little bit more in just a second.

So, this is going to be a great replacement from Omix-ADA because it looks and works just

like a factory door handle, but you don't have to pay those factory door handle prices

by going directly to Mopar or going directly to a dealership for a replacement.

An Omix-ADA is really good with that, making a replacement piece that is every bit as good

as a factory piece, but less expensive, and that's what you're going to get out of this

door handle.

This handle is going to be black, just like the factory ones.

There are a couple options out there from some manufacturers that are going to be chrome

if you're after that look, but this is going to be as factory as it gets, and the mechanism

on the backside of the handle is going to be zinc-coated to help ward off any sort of

rust.

Now a member of the install team will show you how to get this installed on your Jeep.

We're going to begin the installation of our new door handles by removing the door panel

from the inside of your vehicle.

Ours is already pre-removed for us.

Once your door handle is removed, you're gonna reach up inside the door and you're gonna

release two clips on the inside of it.

You're going to take this clip and bend it outwards, releasing the locking mechanism,

and the two sliders pop right out.

Once those clips slide out, you just unlatch the rod, pull the handle out of the door.

Now, once you pull your handle out of the door, to disconnect the rod, you're going

to take a pair of needle-nose pliers, and grab the small clip.

That simple.

These are the two locking clips that I was telling you about.

When they are installed, they're slid down into here, with this tab here locking them

into place.

Alls you're gonna do is bend this tab outwards, and this will slide right up and out.

To reinstall, you put your door handle in the door, slide these down from the top until

you hear them click and lock into place.

To reinstall your new one, just as easy as taking it out.

You're gonna reach in, make sure you have the rod lined up, slide the rod over the pin,

and secure it with the clip.

Once the clip is back on the rod, set your new door handle in place, and you're gonna

reach back up inside the door and slide those two clips in.

Now that our new door handle is installed and secured in place, go ahead and put your

door panel back on.

One of these handles is just less than $30, I think that's a very fair price for what

you're getting here.

It's gonna be less expensive than going to Mopar or a dealership for the same part, but

for all intents and purposes, this is going to be every bit as good as a factory handle.

So if you need to replace those factory door handles on your YJ or your TJ, I would recommend

taking a look at this option from Omix-ADA, and you can find it right here, at extremeterrain.com

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Omix-ADA Black Steel Door Paddle Handle (1987-2006 YJ LH & TJ RH) Review & Install - Duration: 3:39.

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Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2018| Full Review | with Steve Hammes - Duration: 6:45.

Few vehicles receive more hype leading up to their redesign than a new Wrangler.

For some, it's still the only Jeep.

Its image is tied to driving freedom like none other.

So here we are with the highly anticipated JK replacement; just as rugged as before but

smarter than ever.

Code named JL, this is the first complete Wrangler redesign in over a decade.

Ask any designer and they'll tell you updating an icon is their most difficult job. 

So from the naked untrained eye, this could be just about any Wrangler since 2007. 

But a closer inspection uncovers improved aerodynamics, a lowered beltline with bigger

windows for better visibility, and other little bits that have modernized the appearance. 

But it's once you open the doors that the newness truly begins. 

To my amazement, lots of people use these as commuter cars and for them Jeep has made

this Wrangler far more palatable, yet…

It's time for my typical Rubicon disclaimer.

Now, if you don't do a lot of off-roading and simply plan on driving this to work every

day please allow me to steer you to a different Wrangler model.

Despite the high level of creature comforts in here these things drive like a drunken

sailor.

And for its versatility, it actually skews pretty low.

Now if you do a lot of off-roading absolutely go for it.

Otherwise, find yourself a different Jeep.

Whether Sport, Sahara or top dog Rubicon, each Wrangler has its own look and personality.

But it's the Rubicon that gives the Trail Rated badge its greatest credence with heavy

duty axles, Rock-Trac 4-wheel drive transfer case with the deepest low range, an electronic

sway bar disconnect system for greater wheel articulation, highest ground clearance, steel

rock rails, most durable all-terrain tires and most advantageous trail proportions. 

Jeep says the JL's frame has been optimized to reduce weight through the use of aluminum

doors and a magnesium swing gate. 

And out here, it's a juggernaut of capability – up to 30" of water fording, nearly 11"

of ground clearance, locking differentials – there's nothing more to say about what

it can do than has already been said by me and countless others. 

If this is your idea of fun, the Wrangler is the best tool for the job.

I've driven lots of these through the years and there's no questioning the Rubicon's

off road credentials - it's ready to go straight from the factory; but whether or

not this particular model is any less or more capable than the generations before it is

difficult for me to discern because I've never had a moment of angst in one of them.

They go just about anywhere a sane person would take them.

So, for me, the biggest takeaway here is how Jeep has upped the Wrangler's usability

quotient, less so for this purpose-built Rubicon model, but still, it is not wanting for features

– there are things in here you never thought you'd see in a Wrangler.

Plus, it's just really smart and well-conceived.

Not to mention pretty darn quick.

The 3.6-liter V6 with stop start and the new 8-speed automatic give this Wrangler a real

charge and added refinement.

285 horsepower and 260 pound feet of broad torque make it a nice fit here. 

But if you're willing to try something new there's an optional 2.0-liter turbo with

more torque, improved acceleration and better fuel economy for an extra $1,000 and coming

later is a 3.0-liter diesel. 

That'll be available on 4-door models only and boosts torque to over 440 pound-feet. 

And don't worry manual fans, there's a new 6-speed as standard equipment while this

auto is a $2,000 option. 

As is, there's certainly more polish to the ride but with these knobby KO2 tires and

other factors, you're constantly adjusting the electric assist steering to keep it straight. 

If you've ever driven one you know what I mean. 

It pivots on a dime though with a really tight turning radius.

Gas mileage takes a leap forward, now rated at 20mpg in combined driving.

A number of roof options are available including the 3 piece hard top.

This one here upgrades to the Premium Sunrider Soft Top that's quieter than the standard

cloth roof and it comes with an easy to use spring-assisted mechanism to help lower and

raise it. 

And for those who prefer to remove doors and lower the windshield Jeep has made those chores

easier, too. 

Not so convenient is accessing the cargo area – small as it is. 

But the rest of the cabin is very impressive. 

It's a tall step inside with a commanding view of the road and once there the upgraded

materials and clever design touches are instantly recognizable.

It's all the little details like this that makes these Jeeps even cooler.

Leather trimmed seats, wash out interior with all-weather floor mats - everywhere you look

there are little Jeep Easter eggs for all to find.

It's a great looking cabin with features galore including top-notch infotainment, big

knobs and buttons, weather proofed USB ports…there're even heated seats, a heated steering wheel

and Wi-Fi. 

Notice the animated water on the navi screen.

Mine has push button and remote start and you can even get smart key entry and side

blind zone alert now…pretty amazing in a Wrangler. 

It's certainly got the goods to better integrate it into an everyday use scenario – very

smart and ergonomically sound. 

Riding in the back I noticed 2 things – it was cold and loud. 

But there is good room for up to 3 more.

Pricing?

A 2-door Sport starts at under $29,000, an Unlimited Rubicon at under $43,000  and a

loaded one like this for just over $53,000. 

No matter, towing is maxed at 3,500 pounds. 

The new Wrangler JL takes a big leap forward in terms of available powertrains, technology,

and safety features – the rest is much like it's always been.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2018| Full Review | with Steve Hammes - Duration: 6:45.

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Jeep Wrangler DV8 Off-Road LED Projector Headlights (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 6:27.

These DV8 Off-Road LED Projector Headlights will be perfect for the JK owner looking to

update their lighting and give new life to the front end of their Wrangler.

LED lighting will give you a brighter, cleaner-looking, and more uniform light compared to your stock

halogens.

Not only will this upgrade the lighting performance, this will also give you an upgrade in styling,

and will match very well with any other LEDs that you have mounted up to your Wrangler.

I would like to mention that these will require the stock halogen headlights to install, and

will not be compatible with the JK models that came with the LED headlights right out

of the factory, and I'll explain why in just a little bit.

Install will be a piece of cake, guys, at one out of three wrenches, and I'll show you

how to do that in just a minute.

These headlights will feature LED lighting technology that will have a crisp, white light

color temperature at right around 5,000K, compared to your yellowish-hued halogens that

average at right around 2,700K.

These will produce 1,700 lumens at the low beam, and 3,200 lumens at the high beam, which

will be about double the distance of your stock lights, which is where you're gonna

see the most beams out of these lights.

Not only will they shine bright, they'll give the front end of your Wrangler a stealthy

look with an all-black housing, and give a bit of a refresh instead of those stock chrome

headlights.

These will not only look a lot cleaner than the stock halogens, these will last a lot

longer at about 50,000 continuous hours.

Like I said earlier, the Wranglers with the stock LEDs will not be compatible with these,

since you weren't able to remove the whole headlight bucket.

However, if you did wanna upgrade your LEDs to a different-style LED like this one, you

will need an adaptor.

Choosing lighting mostly comes down to personal preference in the designs, since there are

so many options that we offer, as well as staying inside of your budget.

These headlights are about $230 at the moment, and are gonna be one of the more budget-friendly

options when it comes to projector headlights.

These won't be your most premium LED projector headlights that we offer on the site right

now, but these will still get the job done, with their lighting performance giving you

a stealthy look and having a very long lifespan.

Like I said before, guys, install is gonna be very easy at one out of three wrenches

on the difficulty meter, and now, we'll go head over to the shop and I'll show you how

to bolt these up.

The tools that we use for our install are a flathead screwdriver, a ratchet, an extension,

and a T-15 torque spit.

Now, that we have the Jeep in the shop, we can go ahead and install our headlights.

First, we're gonna have to open up the hood and pop off the grille.

So, in order to remove the grille, we have to take off the six pop clips up top.

So you can take a flathead or a trim removal tool.

I'm just using a flathead.

Just be careful not to scratch up your grille.

Now, you can go ahead and wedge the grille out from the clips in the radiator support.

Do a little tug.

It's not gonna break.

Then you can lay this over and disconnect your turn signals.

That fully removes your grille.

So now, in order to remove our headlight, we have to take out four torque bolts with

a T-15 torque spit.

These bolts are gonna be holding in the trim that is holding in your headlight, so just

be careful when you take off that last one that you have a hold on your headlight so

it doesn't fall out and damage the actual light.

So now, that you have the headlight removed, you can unclip it from the stock wiring harness

and move over to the next one.

So now, before we install our new headlight, we have two wiring harnesses that we need

to attach to our light.

This EMC harness is gonna prevent any LED flickering because of the lower resistance.

So you're just gonna plug that in.

Then this harness is gonna be your H4 to H13 conversion, which will be for your JK model.

Then you can plug in your wiring harness to your stock harness.

Pull that red tab down to secure it in place.

You can tuck all of your wiring back into your headlight housing.

You can take your existing trim, put that over your new headlight, then you can reinstall

your stock screws.

With those bolted up, you can move over to the next one.

With the headlights installed, we can go ahead and reinstall our grille.

You can pop it into place first, and then we can attach our pop clips, and reinstall

our turn signal wiring.

With everything bolted up, we can go ahead and close our hood, and after your hood is

down, you're all set.

That's it for my review and install on the DV8 Off-Road LED Projector Headlights.

For more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler DV8 Off-Road LED Projector Headlights (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 6:27.

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Jeep Wrangler Rough Country 2.5" Lift Kit without Shocks (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 8:28.

This Rough Country two and a half inch lift kit without shocks is for those of you that

have a 2007 to 2018 JK that are looking for a way to run a set of 33 inch tires.

That's generally what I recommend with two and a half inches of lift.

You can go up to a 35-inch tire, but you're going to lose a little bit of that additional

space and not have quite as much room for articulation, especially if you're going off-road.

And if you wanna go with something smaller than a 31-inch tire, you can probably just

go with a leveling kit and not go with a lift kit like you see here.

This lift kit, even though it is not springs, it is just spacers, it's still going to require

most of the same steps for installation as you would need to go through if you were installing

a full spring lift kit, so I am going to give this a two-out-of-three wrenches and probably

around three hours or so.

The install time will vary depending on what tools you have at your disposal and if you

have a lift or not, and we'll talk more about the installation in just a second.

So, as I said, this is going to be a coil spring spacer lift kit.

You can obviously see that this does not include new, longer-coil springs, and that is a perfectly

fine way to lift your Jeep.

You're still going to get the lift that you need to run those 33-inch tires.

Now, the only downside, if you wanna call it that, of a kit like this, is you can get

into a situation where you have coil bind sooner than you would if you installed a longer

set of coil springs.

And coil bind is just a situation where the coils of the spring can touch, and over time

that can cause some damage to the spring.

Being that you have the spacers in there, again you're going to have that a little bit

sooner than if you installed a spring.

But that's not to say that you can't go off-road, you can't drive on-road with this kit installed,

plenty of people do it and it still works very, very well.

So, as you can see, this kit is made up of a fairly small number of parts.

Of course, I don't have the hardware here on the table, but this is really everything

that you need to run a two and a half inch lift and 33s inexpensively.

So you're going to have your four coil spring spacers, the fronts are going to be a little

bit taller than the back, and that's going to help to level out your ride height a little

bit as well.

This kit does not come with shocks, but it does come with shock extension brackets so

you're able to use a factory set of shocks with this kit.

And that's it.

You don't have any track bar brackets, longer sway bar end links, you don't have a lot of

those other components that are more traditionally included in a lift kit.

Like I said, you don't need them.

Once you install this kit, you start driving on-road and off-road, you'll get a feel for

what you want to go ahead and upgrade on this kit.

So this is going to be a great starter kit, a nice, inexpensive kit and way to run 33s

that you can build on down the line.

This lift kit is going to be one of the least expensive ways to lift your Jeep two and a

half inches and run a set of 33-inch tires.

This kit comes in at right around $160, and that is very, very inexpensive.

And this is going to be a great starter kit, as I mentioned before.

I think it's well worth the price to get you into a lift kit and then go ahead and have

something that you can build on as you use your Jeep and find the areas that you wanna

upgrade.

Now I'll have a member of the install team show you how to install this lift kit on your

JK.

Position your vehicle on a lift, and raise it up into the air.

We'll be starting in the rear of the vehicle, and first you wanna remove both rear wheels.

Start off by supporting your rear axle with a set of pole jacks, or jack stands if you're

not working on a lift.

Remove the upper shock bolts by using a 16 millimeter socket.

Also remove the lower shock bolts using an 18 millimeter socket and a 15 millimeter wrench.

Using an 18 millimeter socket, remove the bottom sway bar bolts and retain them for

later use.

Using a 10 millimeter wrench or socket, remove the bolt holding the brake line to the frame.

We're gonna be attaching the brake line extension bracket to the factory hole in the frame and

reattaching it to the brake line.

Lower the axle enough so you can remove the stock coil springs.

We will be installing the new coil spring spacer with the supplied hardware.

Install the new coil spring spacer with the supplied washer nut, and secure it with the

half inch by two and a half inch bolt.

After you have installed your shock spacers, you can reinstall your factory springs using

the factory spring isolators as well.

Next, we can reinstall the lower sway bar mount.

We'll start off the front by removing the wheels.

Next, raise the vehicle up and support the axle with jack stands or pole jacks.

We will next remove the lower shock bolts and the lower sway bar bolts.

Next, we'll remove the factory brake line bracket, and install the brake line extension

bracket.

Next, we're gonna lower the axle down to remove the factory springs.

Next, we're gonna remove the factory spring isolator, and install our spacer, and install

the isolator back in place.

Next, install your springs, and from there, we'll move on to installing the lower shock

relocation bracket.

Using the provided hardware, mount your lower shock relocation bracket.

Next, we're gonna raise the front axle back up to reconnect our lower shock bolts.

After installing your lower shock relocation brackets, you can reconnect your lower sway

bar bolts.

So, if you're looking for a very inexpensive two and a half inch starter lift kit, I definitely

recommend this option from Rough Country, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rough Country 2.5" Lift Kit without Shocks (2007-2018 JK) Review & Install - Duration: 8:28.

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Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge CB Radio Mount Bracket (2007-2018 JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 2:59.

This Rugged Ridge CB Radio Mount Bracket is for those of you that have a 2007 to 2018

JK that are looking for a very convenient spot to mount your CB radio.

This is a bracket that's going to be completely bolt-on, making it a very simple one of three

wrench install.

We'll talk a little bit more about that in just a second.

So with the CB radio, you really want it to do two different things for you, you want

it to be easily accessible within arm's reach and also so that you can hear it clearly when

you are using it, and you want it to be out of the way so you're not bumping into it,

and it's not taking up valuable interior space when you don't need it.

And that's what this bracket is really going to provide for you.

It's going to tuck the CB up, out of the way, so it's not taking up any other surfaces,

any other storage areas inside of your JK, but when you do need it, you can reach up

and very easily access it from the driver seat.

It also puts a CB radio that has an internal speaker a little bit closer to your head,

so it is going to be a little bit louder and a little bit easier to hear as well.

As far as brackets go, I like the fact that this one's completely bolt-on, I like where

it puts the CB Radio, but I also like the price.

This is going to be a very inexpensive bracket.

This CB radio bracket is made out of steel that's covered in a black powder coat finish

that'll help it to blend right into the factory trim that's up there by the top of the windshield

frame as well as most CB radios that you'll get will be black as well.

Everything will just blend.

It's not going to stick out to the eye.

As I mentioned before, it is a completely bolt-on installation, which is a very nice

feature.

It has a little bit of padding built right into it, so it's not going to chafe the factory

paint on your Jeep.

And this hook up here is actually to keep that dangling CB Radio mic wire up out of

the way for you, so a really well-thought-out piece and a very easy install.

Now, I'll have a member of our install team show you how to get this bolted up your JK.

First, position your sun visors against the side windows.

Remove the center portion of the plastic windshield frame cover by gently pulling down until the

clips release.

Next, we will remove the center footman loop by removing the two Torx screws.

Use the factory Torx screws to install the CB mount and footman loop with the CB mount

on outside.

Replace the center plastic windshield frame cover.

And lastly, install your CB radio.

So if you're looking for a CB radio bracket to put that radio in an accessible spot when

you need it but also out of the way when you don't, all with the very easy bolt-on bracket,

I definitely recommend this option here from Rugged Ridge.

And you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rugged Ridge CB Radio Mount Bracket (2007-2018 JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 2:59.

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Rancho + XT automotive 1,5" Kit lift - "kit rialzo" - Jeep kj - Duration: 10:40.

Hello guys! welcome back to my channel

this week we will talk about the lift kit for the Jeep KJ

it will not be a simple Unboxing video, but we'll talk about the kits on the market and which one is right for you

as everyone knows, the KJ has at the rear a superior triangle and two lower links, while at the front it has an independent system

this type of suspension gives the vehicle greater stability on the road, but it is not very dynamic off-road compared to all the Jeeps produced previously

this is why the manufacturers of off-road components do not have much choice of lifting kits for this Jeep

The most widespread lift kit consists of four shims that are inserted between the spring and the axle plate, the latter slightly raise the Jeep from the ground and give it a more aggressive look

unfortunately this kit does not improve performance on the road or off-road

alternatively there are some Australian manufacturers that produce Kit Lift complete with springs and shock absorbers

these Kit Lift are ideal for off-roading that is used in Australia, that is, long raid in the desert with well-equipped vehicles, such as spare wheels, HD bumpers, winches etc ..... but all these accessories detemine excessive weight compared to our Jeeps

so this type of Kit is not ideal for our Jeep, installing it we would risk to harden the suspensions too much and make the jeep uncomfortable especially on the road

XT automotive which is an Italian manufacturer that produces a Kit of springs slightly higher than the original, cierca 1.5 "but at the same time they remain very soft

this setting is ideal for the type of off-road vehicle that this Jeep can do here in Italy!

just in these days I received the package not the new set-up

I purchased the Traction 4X4 Kit simply because I was hurrying a convenient package consisting of four XT automotive springs and four Rancho shock absorbers

these Rancho shock absorbers are not top of the range but they do their dirty work! 👌🏼

now I will show you in detail how this Kit is made

here we are guys !!!

inside the package we found: 2 front and 2 rear springs, 2 "eye - eye" rear shock absorbers and two front shock absorbers of those that are installed inside the springs

inside the package there were also some gadgets, like the lighter that gave us a gentle Traction 4X4 and their catalog with stickers

let's start talking about the springs !!!

as we said, I bought these springs because they are not too hard but at the same time they are about 4 cm (1.5 ") more than the original ones!

we decided to install this Kit Lift because after replacing the front axle shafts we realized that they were working in the wrong way because the springs were flat, and consequently even the axle shafts worked almost in negative!

for this reason, when the Jeep takes off the front suspensions they were going to make the semi-axles work forcefully, with this new set of springs all the components will return to work in the correct way

this set of springs makes the Jeep very comfortable, so we could make a Quoditiano use but also a bit of easy offroad on the weekend

these springs are produced with an excellent steel made in Italy and after forging they also undergo a shot peening treatment

the shot peening is a process that consists of plunging the springs into a full tub of pebbles or pellets of cast iron, steel or copper, making them turn quickly on the springs, they form dents, these give it more strength and a greater breaking point

about the springs I hope I told you everything!

as I told you I bought a complete Kit Lift so as not to risk that some component is not the right size,

from Traction 4X4 I found this Kit Lift that I can easily install by my trusted mechanic

the available Lift Kit are two, the springs are identical for both, while there are two types of shock absorbers, one is a simple monotube while the other is adjustable

I bought those without adjustments because for the use I have to make of the vehicle are more than enough

let's talk about the shock absorbers now !!!

the front shock absorber is of the type that fit inside the spring and is provided with a protective cap

inside the package we can also find a new nut that must be screwed on the upper part of the shock, because the old nut could have been damaged

this is a good trick taken by Rancho

inside the package we can also find a leaflet illustrating all the phases of the assembly

the rear shock absorbers are the classic Eye - Eye that are fixed on the axle and chassis connections

they are classic monotube dampers that have an oil and nitrogen system inside them that allow them to work both in compression and in extension

see you !!! in extension it makes resistance and the same it does in compression

this system makes the stresses better absorb and makes the Jeep more stable on the road

inside the package we can also find the dust cap that I recommend to install to protect the stem from the ground and stones

it could also damage the dust seals, compromising the functionality of the shock

we can also find in the package the band to fix the headset and Rancho stickers that I recommend you install because they are plastic and yellow quickly

I hope this video has helped you too!

if you have any doubts or questions you can ask them in the video comments

in the video description I will leave you the links for the purchase of this kit

if you have not done so yet, subscribe to the you tube channel and if you liked the video click Like

see you next friday at 15:00 .... goodbye

For more infomation >> Rancho + XT automotive 1,5" Kit lift - "kit rialzo" - Jeep kj - Duration: 10:40.

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Jeep Wrangler Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift Kit w/o Shocks (1997-2006 4.0L TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 6:10.

This Rough Country two-and-a-half-inch Suspension Lift Kit without Shocks is for those of you

that have a 1997 to 2006 TJ, that has the inline-six, four-liter engine.

That's going to be important because the four-liter's a little bit heavier than the 2.5, so make

sure you get the right lift kit for your Jeep.

Now, as always, a lift kit is gonna be there so that you can fit big tire underneath your

Jeep, and two-and-a-half inches of lift is what's recommended to run a set of 33-inch

tires.

If you want to go up to a 35-inch tire, it is recommended to run a little bit more lift,

around 4 inches, and if you only wanna run a 31-inch tire, you can probably get away

with a smaller lift than this one.

As you can see here, it's just going to include the four springs.

That's going to help keep costs down, and also make the install a little bit easier

for you, and at two-and-a-half inches of lift you really don't need a lot of those additional

accessories.

Now, if you do plan on driving your Jeep off-road, or you want a more comfortable on-road ride,

there are, of course, some additional accessories that you can bolt on.

So, this is going to make a very nice and very inexpensive starter lift kit, that you

can change, mod, and add to as you go to build your ideal Jeep.

So, like I said and, as you can see on the table here, this is going to be an incredibly

simple lift kit.

This is just going to be the four springs, two in the back, two in the front, no other

accessories included with this.

Now, as far as the minimum other stuff that you're going to want to bolt on your Jeep

to make sure everything is working properly, you'll probably want to install a set of longer

shocks, or at least a set of shock extensions.

That's going to make sure that everything works, on-road and off-road for you as well.

As I said, you can add a bunch of other stuff: control arms, track bars, upgraded shocks,

really a million other components onto your Jeep, but this is going to be a great way

to start, to be able to get rolling on some bigger tires, on-road and off, and then figure

out what you need, what you want, and how you want to build your Jeep.

A lot of the times you jump into a lift kit that's a lot more complete, has a bunch of

other stuff, and you don't even know if you need it or not.

So this is a nice, slow way to get into lifting your Jeep.

This lift kit's gonna run you only $220.

That is going to be one of the least expensive coil spring lift kits that you can get.

Of course, a coil spring spacer kit's gonna be cheaper, but if you want coil springs,

this is going to be a very inexpensive way to do that.

As I said, you're probably going to want to add some longer shocks, and down the line

you may add some additional accessories, but this is a great way to get you started rolling

on some 33-inch tires.

Now, I'll have one of the members of our install team show you how to install this lift on

your TJ.

First, we'll be using a two post lift.

Position the vehicle on the lift, and put it up in the air.

First we're gonna remove the rear wheels.

First, we will be removing the lower shock bolts.

Next, we're gonna remove the lower sway bar bolts.

And, we're gonna remove the coil springs.

Using a spring compressor, compress your spring down to make the ease of installation.

After you have installed your springs, you can now reattach your lower shock bolts.

After you have reattached your shocks, move on to the rear sway bar and reattach it, using

the bolts you removed.

Moving on to the front springs, first we will remove the lower sway bar links.

Next, we're gonna remove the lower portion of the shock bolts.

Next, we remove the lower track bar bolt.

After removing your track bar, you can remove your springs, and a spring compressor might

be necessary to remove your springs.

Using a spring compressor, compress your new spring, to make installation easier.

Next, install the spring retainer.

Next, raise the axle back up to connect your shocks.

So, if you're looking for a very inexpensive starter lift kit, I definitely recommend this

option from Rough Country, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift Kit w/o Shocks (1997-2006 4.0L TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 6:10.

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Jeep Wrangler Rough Country Long Arm Upgrade Kit for 4-6" Lift (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 34:11.

Having plenty of suspension travel and clearance off-road is very crucial when it comes to

getting over big obstacles in conquering the trails.

If you're looking for that extra articulation off-road, upgraded control arms and brackets

are a big part of that equation, and this long arm upgrade kit by Rough Country will

be the most affordable way to take your current lift kit to a whole new level.

This kit is designed to be a control arm upgrade for your current lift kit and will make difficult

trails a walk in the park.

This kit will be for the '97 to '06 TJ owner with a four to six inch lift, and I would

like to call out that this kit will not fit the unlimited models.

However, we do have an option for the LJ on our site right now.

As for install, this will be a tough three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter

and will take up most of your day, but welding is not required like a lot of other long arm

kits, and we'll show you how to do that in just a minute.

Like I mentioned, this will be for the TJ owners that want to upgrade their four to

six-inch lift.

This will come with all the front and rear upper and lower single side adjustable control

arms.

This will also come with the track bar brackets and all the hardware needed to extend your

suspension.

On one side of the control arms, Rough Country uses a polyurethane bushing that's going to

be very similar to your standard stock bushing.

And then on the other side there is a spherical joint where you're going to see most of your

articulation from.

They're fully rebuildable and greaseable and the upper joints will pivot up to 20 degrees

while the lowers will pivot up to 35 degrees, which is a big step up from your factory control

arms.

With the longer angles, you will get a lot more flex off-road.

However, long arm kits do hang a lot lower than short arms or stock control arms and

they can get bumped around while you're crawling over big obstacles.

Rough Country took that into consideration while designing their lower control arms,

making them high clearance to reduce hang-ups on the trail.

I would like to mention that an SYE and a CV driveshaft is definitely recommended at

four inches of lift and pretty much necessary at six inches of lift to avoid any driveline

vibration.

The Rubicon models will not need an SYE for this kit, but a CV driveshaft is still recommended

in either case.

Also, the exhaust will need to be cut and rerouted in order to bolt this up.

Out of all the upgrades that you can do to your suspension, long arms will be at the

top of the tier when it comes to cost.

However, out of all the long arm kits that we sell, this option right here will be your

most affordable one at right around a $1,000 at the moment.

Rough Country is usually a budget-friendly brand and they offer good quality and good

performance for their price.

There are some drawbacks or differences to this kit compared to some other more expensive

options though.

More expensive options can range anywhere from a $1,000 all the way to $2,800.

And when getting up into those premium choices, other kits will usually include other features,

like double adjustable control arms, spherical joints on both ends, as well as extra components

like full crossmembers and trusses.

However, in most of those will require modification and some welding, yet, this one does not.

So on top of the price you are getting some convenience if those extra steps aren't something

that you wanted to do.

Like, I mentioned, this will be a three out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter

and will most likely take your whole day to install.

Now, I'll pass it over to the installers to show you how this gets done.

First, we'll begin by raising the vehicle up.

First step, we're going to support the drivetrain assembly.

We're going to remove the skid plate.

We're gonna take our pole jack, make sure that's nicely supported.

Now, we're going to remove the skid plate bolts.

Using a half inch socket, we're going to remove the transmission mount bolt.

On this mount, we have a stuck nut.

Since we're replacing the transmission nut anyway, we're going to go ahead and cut it

in half so we can get the skid plate off.

Next step, we're going to support the skid plate with a jack stand.

We're going to take those other three bolts out using a three-quarter inch socket.

Next step, we're going to take the passenger side bracket, fit it up over the frame.

We'll get that started somewhat.

Next step, we're

going to use a pair of clamps, we're going to pinch this bracket onto the frame, make

sure that it's all the way up.

We're going to do that for the front and the rear.

All right, now, we're going to install the driver side.

Same thing, set the bracket up in.

So now that we have our bracket on, we're going to go ahead and drill a pilot hole through

both sides.

Now that we have that hole drilled, we're going to switch to a seventeen-thirty-seconds

drill bit, and then we're going to go all the way through the frame again.

And you're gonna do the same thing for the other side.

We're going to start with a pilot hole, so now we have to drill through the backside

as well.

So you're to want to get the drill bit as level as possible so you can make sure that

the other sideline is up.

Now, that we have our pilot hole all the way through, we're going to go ahead and switch

to our seventeen-thirty-seconds.

All right, so using the supplied hardware, gonna take one of the larger bolts, put a

washer on it, send it through the frame, and we're going to put another washer on the back

and then attach on that.

Same thing with the other side, install a washer, place our bolt through, install our

washer, and then the supplied nut.

Now, we're going to use a 19-millimeter wrench and a socket and go ahead and tighten all

that up.

First step, we're going to go ahead and install these clamps, making sure we don't have a

gap in this frame rail.

Also making sure that our bolt holes are lining up as well.

I'll make a little mark.

Make sure you're in the middle.

Once you are in the middle, when you feel comfortable your holes lined up, go ahead

and drill it through.

We're going to take our large drill bit and spray with some WD-40.

Now, we're going to do the front hole.

Go ahead and make sure our hole is lined up.

Now, we're going to take our big drill bit.

Next step, take our supplied hardware, place a washer on the bolt, so we'll place a washer,

supplied nut, and then we'll do the same thing for the front side.

Place a washer on our bolt, stick our bolt through.

Then we're going to get our 19-millimeter socket wrench and we'll tighten that all up.

So now, we're ready to install the skid plate.

We have to trim the rear corner on the driver side, so it fits around the new frame bracket.

So I'm going to show you how to do that.

We're going to take a piece of tape.

We wanna measure back from the edge two and three-eighths for a '97 to '02 model.

And then we're going to need to trim down along here as well.

So now that fits, we're going to grind and smooth out our edges.

So now that we've trimmed our skid plate, we know that it fits, we're ready to install

it.

We're going to go ahead and lift that up, insert the new bolts that Rough Country provided

with this, and then we'll get that bolted on.

Go ahead and set it up and just get it started.

I'm going to use our three-quarter inch.

So now we're going to lower our drivetrain down so that the studs pop through on the

transmission mount, and then we're going to go ahead and reinstall our hardware.

Then we can remove this pole jack completely.

All right, so the next step, we're going to support the front axle with jack sands and

we're going to disassemble the front.

Since we have a quick disconnects up here, we're just going to pull this pin.

Same thing with the other side, disconnect the sway bar links.

Remove our cab nut, our bolt.

You want to save that.

All right, now we're going to take out the shocks.

We're going to use the half-inch wrench for the top, half-inch socket for the bottom.

Half-inch wrench on the top, half-inch socket on the bottom.

So now that we have the shocks unhooked, we're going to go ahead and loosen the axle, lower

it down some.

All right, now we're going to loosen up the control arms.

First, we'll start by loosening the upper control arm using a 15-millimeter.

We'll do the same thing for the other side, then we're going to use a 21 for the stock

bolt, 21 wrench, do the same thing on the other side.

Loosen the little bolt.

Hopefully, we can free up these springs.

All right, so now we're going to disconnect the brake line from the frame.

Using a T40, we'll remove this bolt.

That will give us a little more drop and some room to play with.

Do not lose that bolt.

So next step, I'm going to disconnect the steering.

Go ahead and pull the cotter pin out.

Once you've broken it free, go ahead and take the nut off.

Let that hang down, put the nut back on, move on to the next step.

So now that we have this dropped enough, springs are unloaded, we're going to go ahead and

support the pinion.

And then we're going to remove these control arms completely.

Take the bottom out.

You want to take the upper bolt out.

It's going to be a 15 for a stock bolt.

We're going to do the same thing for the other side.

Remove the factory hardware.

And last but not least, we'll to take that bottom bolt out and go ahead, loosen it up,

get it to make its way out.

Right there.

So now that we have the control arms out of the vehicle, the next step is going to be

cut these lower brackets off.

So we're going to cut along the weld and we'll separate the bracket.

We're going to cut on the inside, the outside, and then we're going to have to cut across

this seam as well.

So the next step, now that we have the frame brackets cut off, we're going to assemble

the front control arms, get ready to install them.

First step, take one of our bushings.

You do not want to get this stuff on you.

I'm going ahead and apply some anti-seize in the inside of there and we'll screw our

joint in.

Now, if you have issues screwing the joint in, you can take a screwdriver or any kind

of tool that would fit in this bushing and help that to spin it in.

So next step, we're going to measure 29 inches and three quarters from center to center.

So we have to go in a little bit more.

Center of the bushing to center of the bushing, that's about twenty-nine and three quarters.

Go ahead and temporarily tighten that down.

Then we'll get the other one assembled.

Same thing goes for the other arm, going to go ahead and run this jam nut almost all the

way up.

Anti-seize.

You wanna get that started.

Center of the bushing, about...I need to unscrew it a little bit.

Before we install the control arms, we want to clean the frame, wipe it down real nice,

and we're just going to put some paint on it to protect it, keep it from rusting.

Now we're ready to install the lower control arms.

First, we're going to start off with the back end on the frame mount.

We're going to go ahead and insert the new bolt with a washer on that Rough Country provides

us.

Then we'll insert our washer and our nut.

Now, for the lower, where it bolts to the axle, we're going to reuse the stock hardware.

Same thing, we're going to use the new bolt Rough Country provides.

Go ahead and insert that bad boy in there.

Once we got the top section in, gonna go ahead and install the axle side.

Gonna run that down.

Next, we're going to assemble the upper control arm.

So we're going to go ahead and run this jam nut all the way up and we're gonna apply anti-seize,

gonna screw the new joint in.

So now we're going to measure center to center, fifteen and a quarter.

Seems to be the best process to get that thing.

Going to measure center to center.

And we're gonna insert the new arm into the Jeep and we're going to take our new bolt,

install our new washer, insert it to the control arm.

Place another washer and a nut.

Now, we're ready for the other side.

Do the same thing for the other side.

Insert our joint in the new arm, place our bolt through, install a washer, supplied nut.

So now we're ready to tighten the control arms up and then we're gonna reassemble the

front.

We're going to use a seven-eighths wrench for the inside and we're going to use thirteen-sixteenths

for the bolt head.

Going to use a 17-millimeter for the upper bolts here.

Now, you want to make sure that this joint is centered in here before you tighten it

up.

Once you have it centered, we'll go ahead and we'll lock these jam nuts down.

Next, we're going to take our adjustable wrench, we're going to center this join in here.

Once we have it centered, we're going to tighten it up, lock it in place.

Then we're going to do the same thing on the other side.

Once again, we're going to center this joint here and we're going to go ahead, tighten

that jam nut up.

We'll do the same thing on the other side.

Now, we're going to raise our axle up some.

Next, we're going to reinstall the shock.

Using the factory hardware, we're going to use our half inch socket, half inch wrench.

Reinstall the stock steering, we're going to use our 19-millimeter wrench for that.

Next step we're going to lower this axle down, we're going to get this track bar bolt in.

Take our screwdriver, line that hole up, insert our factory bolt.

Gonna hand-tighten it, make sure that you're not going to cross thread anything.

Last step for the front, we're going to reinstall the sway bar end links.

Since these are quick disconnects, just going to slide them on, push the pin in, lock them

in place.

Now, we're ready to disassemble the rear.

First thing, we're going to support the axle with jack stands.

First step, we're going to remove the track bar bolt.

This is not a factory bolt but your factory one is going to be an 18-millimeter and a

15-millimeter.

Next step, we're going to remove the lower shock bolts.

So now that we have the shocks disconnected, we're going to go ahead and lower the axle,

try to get the springs out.

Now, we're going to begin loosening up the control arms.

First, we're going to need to remove this nut.

It's a half inch nut and it holds the emergency brake to the control arms.

Same thing goes for the other side.

Now, we're going to remove the lower control arm.

We're going to use a 21-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter wrench.

Same thing goes for the other side.

Now, before we remove the upper control arms, we're going to support the pinion just in

case the axle decides to roll.

Now, we're going to remove the upper control arms.

For the factory, you're going to use a 15-millimeter socket and wrench.

Pull that out.

And we'll need to the e-brake cable off of there, then we can pull the control arm the

rest of the way out.

So the last step before we cut these mounts off, we're going to remove this brake line

bracket.

And once again, you're going to need a T40 Torx for that.

Unscrew that.

Then we have a couple lines up here, we'll go ahead and disconnect them.

Move those up and out of the way.

So we're now ready to cut the upper and lower brackets off.

Now, we're going to cut the upper control arm bracket off.

For this one, we're going to use a Sawzall.

So now that we've finished with the passenger

side, we're going to go ahead and start on the driver side.

We're going to cut this upper controller mount off.

Since there's a brake line and some other wiring harnesses, we want to zip tie or a

bungee them out of the way, make sure we don't cut through them.

So we're going to release them from the frame here.

So we're now ready to assemble the rear control arms.

We're going to begin by assembling the rear lowers.

First thing, we're going to take our joints, run the jam nut all the way up.

Gonna take our anti-seize, make sure to coat the inside nice.

Insert to joint.

And we're going to measure center to center for twenty-seven and three quarters.

Looks like we got to go a little bit in.

There we go.

And we want our fitting...they're high clearance arms, we want our fitting to face up so we

don't drag it on a rock.

Same thing, run the jam nut all the way up.

Twenty-seven and three quarter.

So go ahead and run this jam nut down.

So now that we have the rear lowers assembled, we're going to go ahead and go with the uppers

for the rear.

We're going to do the same thing, we're going to run the jam nut all the way down, apply

our anti-seize, then we'll get that threaded in.

So for the upper control arms, we're going to measure 29 inches center to center.

Run those jam nuts down, now we're ready to install them in the Jeep.

So now that we've assembled the rear upper and lower control arms and adjusted them to

the correct length, we're ready to install them into the Jeep.

Using the hardware provided by Rough Country we're going to use a washer on our long bolt.

Gonna get this upper one situated in here.

And we're going use a washer, push our bolt all the way through, we'd install our washer

and our nut.

Then for the axle side of the lower control arm, we're going to reuse our factory bolt.

And since these lowers tend to see a lot of mud and water, I recommend putting some anti-seize

on them just to make it easier if you ever go to take them apart.

So now that we have that, we'll start on the upper one.

Lift up on the pinion so we can get this axle to rotate back and try to get this bolt to

line up.

Once you get the bolt through, place a washer and a nut on it.

Now, we're ready to do the other side.

We'll add our lower control arm.

You're going to add a washer and the nut.

Same thing for the bottom on the other side, we're going to reuse the stock hardware.

Next step, we're going to install the track bar bracket that Rough Country provides.

This Jeep, since it was already lifted, has a track bar relocation bracket on it.

However, we're going to switch them out.

You will need to drill a five-sixteenths hole for here and here.

There's already holes in the axle, you just need to enlarge them and install the hardware.

Also, there's a sleeve that goes in here for the bolt to keep it from crushing, so we're

going to get to that.

Now, that we have that unbolted, I'm going to go ahead and remove the track bar.

So now we're ready to install the bracket.

Go ahead, stick that bracket up there, and we want to install our sleeve.

So now we're ready to install our bracket.

We're going to insert our bolt on our washer in there.

Insert either sleeve in here.

Wanna get that bolt to drop down through that hole.

We're going insert our bolt partially just to hold it in place, then we're going to get

this nut on there.

So we're going to use a magnet to hold our nut and washer and insert that in there.

So we tried to install the bolt facing down and it would not allow us to get this tab

nut on.

So we decided to install it facing up and install the nut on the top side.

So now we're going to install the bottom side.

Once again, the holes are already drilled.

Tighten that up.

Then we'll tighten the top side up as well.

So now that we have the track bar bracket and the track bar on, we're going to start

with the reassembly of the rear.

We're going to begin by installing the springs and then we'll raise the axle up and install

the shocks.

Now, with the new Rough Country long arms, it is going to roll the axle slightly, so

you may have an issue in bolting the shock back on.

You can either buy an adapter that moves the shock body out, or you can cut the spring

perch.

And for this particular install, we're going to cut the spring perch a little bit so we

can fit these shocks on.

First thing you're going to want to do is you're going to either remove the shock completely

or swing it out of the way.

We're going to do the same thing with the other side.

We're going to align our shock up, then we're just going to make some reference marks of

where we want to cut, and we'll go ahead and get our bungee, bungee it out of the way,

and then we'll begin to cut.

So now that we have the shocks back in, we're going to go around, tighten the control arms.

Once we get the control arms all tightened up, we'll tighten up the jam nuts.

We're going to go around and tighten the jam nuts.

Just remember, you want to make sure that these spherical ends are centered before you

tighten this jam nut.

So the last thing to do when reassembling the rear is to install the track bar.

So that finishes up the install of the Rough Country long arm upgrade kit.

You're going to want to go around and just make sure you have everything tight.

Once you get an alignment, you're going to want to have them recheck everything at about

500 miles and, of course, reinstall your wheels and tires.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Rough Country Long Arm Upgrade Kit for 4-6" Lift (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 34:11.

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Jeep : le SUV le plus puissant au monde arrive en France - Duration: 2:46.

For more infomation >> Jeep : le SUV le plus puissant au monde arrive en France - Duration: 2:46.

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Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 HEMI V8 SUMMIT 353pk LEDER CAMERA PANODAK XENON NAVI '16 - Duration: 0:55.

For more infomation >> Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 HEMI V8 SUMMIT 353pk LEDER CAMERA PANODAK XENON NAVI '16 - Duration: 0:55.

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Jeep Wrangler Barricade Front Fender with Flare (1987-1995 YJ) Review & Install - Duration: 4:53.

Armor is something that you definitely want on the trail to add protection to your Wrangler

from any unexpected blows from branches or other obstacles, and off-camber situations.

You can add rock sliders, skid plates, and bumpers, but you can also add some stronger

fenders to upgrade your trail protection.

These steel flared fenders by Barricade will give you the protection for your body panels

that you may be looking for, as well as a very aggressive aesthetic.

The flat flare will allow you to fit a larger tire and they'll offer more articulation off-road.

This version here will also allow a little bit more coverage for a wider tire.

Installing this, guys, is not gonna be easy, and will require some drilling and modification

to get these on.

So I have to rate this a three-out-of-three on the difficulty meter, and I'll explain

more about the install in just a moment.

When it comes to fender flares, there are a ton of options and really, there are two

ways that you can go, personal preferences behind them included.

You can go with a plastic fender that might not hold up as well off-road to obstacles,

but if they do take a hit, they can and they most likely will bend, break, or fling off.

And then you have a solid metal fender like this that will not bend or break, but if it

does take a hard enough hit, you can transfer that impact into the body panels of the Jeep,

causing extra damage.

However, these are solid and will provide much more protection to your Jeep overall.

It all comes down to personal preference, like I said, and what you're looking for in

a fender flare.

These are well-made and definitely able to stand up if they do take any hits on the trail.

The fender flares are made of a heavy-duty three-sixteenth-inch steel, with a two by

one-tenth-inch tubing on the outer edge of the flare itself.

The fenders have a two-stage textured powder coat finish that will resist any rust or corrosion

in the long haul and easily stand up to what gets thrown at them.

Like I mentioned before, this option has a bigger flare than other Barricade options,

and it measures about three inches for extra coverage over your tire and it'll protect

your YJ's body a little bit better.

Other options don't include the flare and they come with just the tube fender that's

tucked into the body of the YJ a little bit more.

The width on this will be able to catch a branch or any debris and keep it away from

your body panels a little bit better, since you have a little bit more coverage.

Not only are they wide, they will be flat with no overhand.

So they will allow a taller tire and a lot more articulation off-road, and that's something

that your stock fender flare couldn't give you.

What I really like about these fenders is the vent on the side that is not just aesthetically

pleasing, but it is functional because it'll give your engine a little spot to breathe

a little bit better.

This is a nice touch for when you're heating up on the trail and you don't have much airflow

going through your radiator,

For front fender flares, these are priced very fairly, at around $280.

There are not many like this on the site for a YJ, but we do have another option by Barricade

and by Smittybilt.

The smaller version of these flares goes for around $250, but it will offer less protection.

We do also have a more expensive option by Smittybilt, but it's a bit of a different

design.

It does not have the flare or the vent but it does provide a bit more steel for protection

off-road.

Overall, this is right in the middle with price, and if you're looking for an aggressive

tube fender, for more uptravel and protection off-road, this will be it.

Install is a three-out-of-three wrenches on the difficulty meter because there is drilling

and modification required on this one.

If you're at home, guys, this should take you right around three to four hours with

some hand tools and a drill.

First thing's first, you have to remove the fenders and the side steps if you have them,

and unplug your signal lights from the fender.

Then you can remove the bolts underneath the side fender and the rear fender wall, as well

as the hood latch.

Keep the hardware, since you will need to reinstall the new fender with the original

hardware.

Now, we're gonna have to chop up the stock fender, so create a template with some cardboard,

lining up the front of the cardboard with the metal piece on the headlight, creating

a starting point.

From that, you can start with your detailed width measurements, from the front of the

fender to the back.

After your template is marked, you can start cutting the OE fender off and unbolt it from

the body, cutting the inner fender down.

then you can put the new fender on and reinstall those bolts on the side that you just took

off.

You're gonna have to mark and drill some holes from underneath for your hood latch.

After your hood latch is reinstalled with the Allen screws, you're all set.

So if you're looking for some solid protection and more articulation off-road for your YJ,

these Barricade tube fenders will be just for you.

This is Merideth with XT, and you can find these and everything else Wrangler right here

at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Barricade Front Fender with Flare (1987-1995 YJ) Review & Install - Duration: 4:53.

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Jeep Wrangler - Duration: 0:53.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler - Duration: 0:53.

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Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 L V6 MultiJet 250PK 4WD A8 SUMMIT - Duration: 1:10.

For more infomation >> Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.0 L V6 MultiJet 250PK 4WD A8 SUMMIT - Duration: 1:10.

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Jeep Wrangler Eibach Pro-Truck Sport Heavy Duty Rear Shock for 0-2" Lift (2007-2018 JK) Review - Duration: 4:16.

The Eibach Pro-Truck Sport Heavy Duty Rear Shock is for those of you that have a 2007

and up JK with zero to two inches of lift, that are looking for a very high quality shock

absorber that's going to give you a pretty comfortable ride.

Now shocks in general can appear to be a little bit of a magical black box.

Not a lot of people know exactly how they work on the inside, how to purchase one over

the other, how long a shock you need, and a lot of those things are taken care of for

you when you purchase a shock from a high-quality company like Eibach.

They've been around for a long time, they've made a lot of different suspension components,

for a lot of different vehicles and this is going to be a shock that will definitely fit

if you have zero to two inches of lift, and is going to give you a comfortable ride because

it is designed for the JK.

This is something that will install very easily on your Jeep.

Definitely a one out of three wrenches.

You really just have unbolt the bottom and the top of your factory shock, remove it and

install the new one.

You may have to pop the tire off to give you a little bit more access to that area, but

still overall very easy install, and we'll talk a little bit more about that in just

a second.

There are a couple of factors you're going to wanna look for when purchasing a shock,

and one of them is definitely going to be the build quality, the construction of the

shock.

A shock absorber will take a beating, especially if you're somebody who's doing some off-roading.

Maybe you're doing a little bit of off-roading at a higher speed, or of course, just driving

down the road and hitting those potholes, your shocks will take a beating.

And if you wanna make sure you're not gonna end up with one that's blown out or bent,

you want something that's going to be a high-build quality, and that's what you're going to get

from Eibach.

On top of that, you want something that's going to ride comfortably, and that's what

I mentioned before.

This is speced [SP] from Eibach for the weight of the Jeep.The sprung and the unsprung [SP]

weight and the spring rate and all of those things are taken into account when a company

sells a shock for a specific application.

So, you know that this is going to be where will you need it to be from a valving perspective

in order to give you a nice comfortable ride.

Now, there are really two main categories of shocks when you're shopping for shocks

that you'll find.

One is a hydraulic shock and the other is a nitrogen-charged shock.

Now this is a nitro-shock.

And what it means is that it has a nitrogen charge inside of it and that nitrogen charge

is there to eliminate any foaming, bubbling, cavitation that can occur inside of the shock

fluid.

When you get all of those things you can end up with shock fade, especially when you're

working the shocks very hard.

And the nitrogen charge inside the shock is there to help eliminate some of that.

In general, a nitro-shock will ride a little bit stiffer than a hydro-shock but at the

end of the day, the valving of the shock has the most to do with the ride quality and the

comfort that you're going to get.

And again, from Eibach you can expect a nice, comfortable ride.

So to get this installed is definitely a one out of three wrench install.

Only about an hour or so to get a pair of these installed, but as with anything on your

Jeep, or really any vehicle, that will depend on rust.

If you have some rust, it's gonna take you a little bit longer.

So, go ahead and spray all of the nuts and bolts that are associated with this install

well ahead of time with a good penetrating oil, and that will speed things along.

So at the bottom you're going to have one bolt, up at the top you're going to have two.

Once you remove those three bolts you can remove your factory shock completely and install

your new Eibach shock.

This shock's gonna run you right around $100.

And that is going to be in the middle to upper end of shocks.

You can find shocks that are going to be significantly less expensive, but again, you're not going

to get the same build quality, you're also not going to get the same ride comfort.

And you can find shocks that are significantly more expensive.

A lot of those are going to have additional features.

They may have adjustable valving, they may have a reservoir so that they can have some

more fluid in there, a lot of different options that you can get when you get into some of

those higher-end shocks that are going to be significantly more expensive.

Overall, for the quality of the shock and for the ride quality you can expect from this

Eibach shock, I think $100 is a very fair price.

So if you're looking for quality shock at a fair price, I definitely recommend taking

a look at this one from Eibach, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Eibach Pro-Truck Sport Heavy Duty Rear Shock for 0-2" Lift (2007-2018 JK) Review - Duration: 4:16.

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Jeep Wrangler - Duration: 1:11.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler - Duration: 1:11.

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Jeep Wrangler Surco Hard Top Carrier (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 4:20.

Taking the top off your Jeep is one of those notorious things that comes with the ownership,

and having a hardtop can cost some extra difficulty when you wanna enjoy that open-air driving

experience, and you have nowhere to store your top.

The most popular solution is a hardtop hoist but if you don't have garage ceiling that's

tall enough, or capable of hoisting your top, you're still stuck in that situation.

This Surco Hard Top Carrier is a great alternative.

This will ground your top safely and help ease some of that anxiety from suspending

your hard top in the air.

This isn't technically an install, but you do have to assemble this when you get it which

is pretty easy.

So I will still call this a 1 out of 3 wrenches on the difficulty meter, and you should be

able to put it together in about 30 minutes.

Like I said, this cart will do a great job at holding your hard top as well as making

it relatively easy to store.

It's pretty low profile, and it will store nicely in your garage.

The cart itself measures 48 inches by 36 inches, and it's 6 inches tall.

So it won't take up much room at all considering the hardtop is placed on it vertically.

The cart itself is made of steel tubing with a black powder coat finish on it.

So this will definitely hold up well over time.

On the tubing, you'll see a couple of foam cushions to protect your hardtop from any

surface damage while it's resting on the carrier.

This also comes with forecasters which make it very easy to move around, and store once

your heavy top is secure.

Two of those caster wheels will be lockable on the cart, and they won't move around while

you're transferring your top from your Wrangler on to the cart, and vice versa.

One thing I definitely think that this carrier should include are some bungee straps or tie

downs to keep the hard top from falling off the carrier.

But you can very easily invest in those for a couple of bucks.

Nonetheless, this hard top is very heavy, and all the weight will be on the bottom end,

so it will be stable enough to rest on its own.

At the moment, this will be more of a budget-friendly option for hard top storage and it is the

only cart option that we currently offer at right around $200.

Other storage options include a hoist that can range anywhere from a $150 for a manual

hoist all the way to $400 for a powered one.

If you don't have a budget like that or a garage for that, this cart will be the best

solution.

The cart is pretty simple for what it is, and you may think that the price is pretty

high for a cart.

However, you do have to think about the value of your hard top, and what it'll cost to fix

or replace it.

There are other more expensive options for carts out there, so I think that the $200

is pretty fair for keeping your hard top safe.

Like I mentioned, this will come in pieces as you see it on the table when you get it.

But all you really have to do is piece the tubing together and install those casters.

It will come with detailed instructions to make it quite easy to put together.

You're gonna wanna slide the upright into one of the side rails, lining up the first

hole, then you're gonna take one of your casters, insert it from the bottom, and secure it with

a washer and an acorn nut.

Next, gonna take your other side, gonna slide it over the upright.

Continue the same thing, picking another caster, inserting it from the bottom, and finishing

it with another acorn nut.

You're gonna do this for all four casters.

Once it's all together, go ahead and tighten everything out.

So if you're looking for a convenient way to store your Wrangler's hard top, the Surco

carrier is a great option to check out.

This is Merideth with XT, and for everything Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Surco Hard Top Carrier (1987-2018 YJ, TJ, JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 4:20.

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Jeep Wrangler Barricade Roof Rack - Textured Black (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 8:50.

This Barricade roof rack is for those of you that have a 1997-2006 TJ that are looking

for a way to carry more gear in, or in this case, on your Wrangler.

TJs are very small on the inside, especially if you have a rear seat installed, there's

not a lot of room for gear.

So if you're looking to carry some larger stuff or just some more stuff, a roof rack

is a great way to go.

This is going to be a completely bolt-on roof rack, definitely a one-out-of-three-wrench

installation, and we'll talk more about that in just a second.

Roof racks are definitely going to give you a lot more space to carry more gear and larger

gear.

However, if you do some more hardcore wheeling, you're not going to want to have a ton of

weight up on the roof rack that can make your top heavy.

And when you're in those off camber situations, can make things a little bit tippy.

However, if you're running some fire trails, you're getting back and forth to a campground,

or you're using your roof rack on the road, this is going to hold up to 350 pounds and

give you a ton more utility from your TJ.

This is also going to be a rack that's going to be fairly inexpensive when you consider

a lot of the other racks out there.

Now, some of those other racks are going to be a little bit more sturdy, they're going

to have a couple of additional features or have some stuff that's designed to be directly

bolted onto that roof rack to give it even more utility.

This is going to be a stripped down, very simple roof rack, but that also allows it

to be a little less expensive.

This roof rack is made of mostly 2-inch round tubing.

It's going to attach onto the windshield hinge bolts up front and onto the frame in the back.

So again no need to drill any holes in your jeep.

You are going to have to have a non-wraparound bumper installed on your TJ in order to get

those brackets installed on the frame and not have the bumper be in the way.

This does have some crossbars built right into the top of it, of course, that's what's

going to end up holding most of your loads.

They are going to be removable so that you can flip down your softtop or remove your

hardtop from your jeep without needing to completely remove your roof rack.

Some other roof racks will completely be hinged and they'll fold back out of the way of the

top.

This, you have to remove the crossbars to take your top up and down.

It may be a couple more steps but it is going to be a little bit easier to do by yourself

with just one person than flipping an entire roof rack back.

That being said, the thumb screws that come in order to hold those crossbars in place

like to get stripped out, so a lot of people will swap them with something else, just keep

that in mind while you're using this rack.

Now, we're gonna have a member from our install team show you how to get this bolted up to

your TJ.

We're gonna begin our installation by removing the corner pieces from our rear bumper.

You will not be able to reuse these, unfortunately, and that's only if you still have the stock

rear bumper on your Jeep TJ.

We're gonna follow that by removing the hardware from the front door hinges so we can bolt

the uprights in place.

I'm gonna go ahead and remove our front doors just to make installation a little easier,

and so no alignment issues happen when removing the hinges.

Simple as opening your door, disconnecting your strap, and lifting it up off the pins.

We're gonna begin removing the front hardware with the top two hinge bolts, and then we're

gonna move down to the bottom two.

First part of our roof rack to go on is the front upright.

This is gonna bolt right in place over your factory hinges.

Next, we're gonna remove the two retaining nuts from the back of the bumper, get these

out of the way so we can install our next upright.

Now that we got our rear lower in place, we're gonna go ahead and install our rear upper

and our forward bar at the same time because they all interlock with each other.

Now, you're gonna wanna make sure that your upper forward bar is oriented in the correct

position so that the holes for the crossbars are facing slightly downward.

All your tubes will fit really tightly together.

This is a good thing, they won't rattle around.

But you might wanna use a mallet just to get them into place.

Just give them a light tap, that should get them all sitting nice and tightly together.

We're gonna go ahead and install our hardware just to hold our bars together, but we're

gonna install it loosely.

We're gonna go back at the end and tighten everything up.

Now that our one side is done and assembled, you wanna go ahead and repeat all of these

steps for the opposite side before we go ahead and put in our crossbars.

It's the same exact procedure, just to the opposite side.

All right.

Now that our side rails are together and mounted and loosely installed, we're gonna go ahead

and add our crossbars in.

We're gonna begin with the middle one.

Just go ahead and over, right up in there.

Once you got your crossbar set in place, you're gonna go ahead and take one of your longer

bolts with a washer, slide it in from the bottom, then you're gonna take one of these

knobs supplied in the kit, go ahead and screw it down from the

top.

Now that all our bars are mounted, we're gonna go ahead and go back and tighten everything

up and snug it down.

This roof rack is gonna run you right around $300 which is going to be a lot less expensive

than some of those premium roof racks that are on the market.

Those premium racks will sometimes have a basket built into them or a basket designed

specifically to go on them.

They will have additional attachment points for lights, for high lift mounts, for jacks,

for axes, for whatever.

And this is definitely going to be a little bit of a simpler design, not have a lot of

those add-ons.

Some of those other racks will maybe be a little bit sleeker looking, they tuck a little

bit closer to the top, have a little bit more style.

This is just going to be a simple rack, this just gets the job done.

And if that's what you're looking for, you can save a lot of money by going this direction.

If you want a few more frills, we have those racks available as well.

So if you're looking for a good, simple roof rack for your TJ, I definitely recommend this

option from Barricade, and you can find it right here at extremeterrain.com.

For more infomation >> Jeep Wrangler Barricade Roof Rack - Textured Black (1997-2006 TJ) Review & Install - Duration: 8:50.

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Jeep Wrangler Barricade Trail Force Bumper & 9,500 lb. Winch (2007-2018 JK & JL) Review & Install - Duration: 7:00.

The Barricade Trail Force HD front bumper with 9,500-pound winch is for those of you

that have a 2007 to 2018 JK that are looking for a bumper and winch combination that are

going to look good together and work very, very well together.

This is going to be a one-out-of-three-wrench installation.

The bumper will bolt directly on to your Jeep.

The winch bolts directly on to the bumper.

The wiring for the winch is very simple, even if you don't have a lot of experience with

automotive wiring, but we'll talk a little bit more about that installation in just a

second.

So like I said, this is going to be a very nice combination.

It's going to change up the look of your Jeep but also add a ton of functionality.

A lot of you guys that are looking for an aftermarket bumper are looking for it because

you want a winch mount, you want some recovery points, you want a hoop with some additional

light mounts on it, and this bumper is going to give you all of that.

The winch that comes in this combo kit is also very, very capable, but stripped down,

no frills, just a winch just designed to work.

This combination together from Barricade is also going to be very cost-effective, so if

you're looking for something that's going to look good and add a ton of function to

your JK, I think you're looking in the right place.

So this is a combo kit.

It comes with two pieces.

First, I wanna talk about the bumper.

This is the Barricade Trail Force HD front bumper.

This is basically a mid-width front bumper designed to replace that factory front bumper

to give your Jeep a little bit more of an aggressive style, as well as add a lot of

function.

The style, that 's completely up to you if you like the look of this bumper or not, but

the function, that's undeniable.

That's built right into this bumper.

This is going to be 5/32-inch steel with a 0.02-inch wall thickness tube up top here,

giving you a ton of strength while also keeping weight down as much as you possibly can for

a big steel bumper.

You're gonna get a powder coat finish over the top of this bumper.

That's gonna do a really nice job of matching a lot of the black classic accents on your

Jeep, as well as any other aftermarket accessories that you might add on.

This is a very commonly used finish.

Now, as far as the exact function that's gonna be built into this bumper, starting down here,

you have a spot for your factory fog lights, as long as you have a factory plastic front

bumper.

If you have one of those special edition steel bumpers, your fog lights aren't going to work,

but for 99% of you that have that plastic front bumper, your factory fog lights are

gonna bolt directly into this bumper and that's something I really like.

You already have the lights, you already have the wire, you already have the switch for

it.

Why not purchase a bumper that allows you to use that light?

And this bumper is going to allow you to bolt that light right in here.

Right next to the light, you're also going to have D-ring mounts.

Those are welded and bolt directly on to your frame horns, giving you a ton of strength,

and this also comes with the D-ring.

So that's not a make or break, but the fact that it does come with them means you don't

have to remember to buy one more thing.

It just becomes very convenient that these come right in the box there.

Over here, of course, you have the winch mount.

That's going to hold your 9,500-pound winch from Barricade just fine.

It's gonna have plenty of strength there.

You have a spot here for your fairlead mount and then, of course, the hoop up over the

top that's going to offer some light protection to the grille area and the winch, but it's

also going to have two light mount tabs right up on top here.

So any single-post light mount you can go ahead and mount on there, adding even more

accessory lighting onto your Jeep.

So that's pretty much everything you're gonna find on this bumper.

Moving on to the winch.

As I've said a couple times now, this is Barricade's 9,500-pound winch and this is their steel

cable winch.

Now, Barricade offers a couple different pulling capacities on their winches.

They also offer steel cable and synthetic cable.

And then they offer some winches that have a few additional bells and whistles, like

a wireless remote control.

This is going to be a more stripped-down version of this winch steel cable, no wireless control.

It just is a winch that's going to work for you.

But that's also how they are able to keep the cost down a little bit.

This winch has a 5.5 horsepower motor, of course, this steel cable here.

It does come with everything you need, your roller fairlead, that's compatible with this

steel cable, of course, the solenoid box.

The remote is wired but it comes with a nice long cable on it so you can still stay out

of the way of any of the danger zone while you're winching.

Now, when you are looking at winches, you essentially want your winch to be able to

pull one and half times the loaded trail weight of your Jeep.

So depending on whether you have a big, heavy, armored-up four-door JK or a much lighter

two-door, that could be a different weight.

Again, 9,500 pounds here.

You want that to be one and a half times the loaded weight of your Jeep.

The other consideration when you're looking at a winch, other than the pulling capacity,

is going to be the cable, and again, this is a steel cable.

Now, a steel cable is nice because it's fairly maintenance free.

It's just gonna last a good long time where you don't have to worry about it too much.

Some of the benefits to a synthetic line are that it is a little bit lighter, so when you're

pulling it up and down those slick, muddy hills, less weight to pull around and it's

not going to kink as easily or fray as easily as a steel cable will eventually over time.

Much, much further into the future, you will have to worry about this fraying.

So the synthetic line does have a couple of benefits.

Now, the only drawback to a synthetic line is that it is going to be much more expensive

than a steel cable.

Again, we've talked about it a couple times now.

This is a stripped-down, basic winch, not a lot of frills, so this does have the steel

cable.

As I mentioned, getting this installed is a very simple one out of three wrenches.

Even if you don't have a lot of automotive wiring experience, getting the winch hooked

up is going to be very easy as well.

Now, the first step in the install is going to be removing that factory bumper, which

you'll do by removing your frame cover and your splash shield from the top and bottom

of the bumper, finally, removing your fog light sockets from the fog lights themselves

and removing the nuts that hold the bumper in place.

Once the bumper is removed, you're ready to install your new bumper.

Now, I always recommend that you bolt the winch onto the bumper before installing the

bumper onto the Jeep.

Now, that does make for a much heavier package, however, it can be difficult to get to some

of those winch-mounting bolts once the bumper is bolted onto the Jeep.

So, bolt the winch onto the bumper, then the winch and bumper together onto the Jeep.

That'll slide right over the frame rails and you can attach it with the included hardware.

After that, there are a couple of wires that you'll have to run from the solenoid box to

the winch itself, and from the solenoid box up to the battery.

But you can just run those under the grille along the inner fender, and make the connections

at the battery.

This kit, including the bumper and the winch, is only going to run you $600.

And that is going to be a pretty good deal when you consider that some front bumpers

alone are $600, some winches alone come close to $600.

You're getting the kit.

So you're not going to get a lot of frills in the winch department, you're not going

to get a bumper that has a lot of additional add-ons or something that is stamped steel

or aluminum, or one of those things that can drive the cost up a little bit.

If you're looking for something affordable, though, I do think you're looking at something

that's going to give you that affordability, a lot of functionality, all at a fair cost.

So you want something that's a little bit less expensive but is going to include some

pieces that are going to look and work really well for you, this is going to be a good kit.

So if you're looking for a kit that includes both a bumper and a winch for a very fair

price, I definitely recommend taking a look at this option from Barricade, and you can

find it right here at extremeterrain.com.