Hi viewers, in this video I went to see my brother and I decided to film and
help him to replace the hub bearing assembly on his daughter's Kia Soul 2011
The hub assembly that had to be replaced was on the right rear side.
The five lug nuts were loosened before the car was lifted. The wheels on the other
side of the car were blocked for safety and the jack-stand was used to secure
the working area. Once it was done, we removed the lug nuts and the wheel.
The two bolts that held the floating caliper were removed. The caliper pads
were loosened by hand as shown. But it could have been done with the help of a
prying tool. The floating caliper was placed in a safe position. Usually people
use a bungee cord to attach the loose part on the coil spring.
The two bolts were unscrewed. Note that the upper retaining bolt was longer than the
other one because of the thickness of the guide plate.
To save time the caliper bracket was removed with the pad still on. Then, the
rotor was ready to be removed. The two retaining screws located on the face of
the rotor where unscrewed. Also, note that the parking brake must be released to be
able to remove the rotor. For this job the shoe adjuster could not be used to
release the parking brake shoes because it was completely rusted and seized.
It was not possible to remove the rotor by hand, we needed some tools.
After hammering and pulling with a pry bar, the rotor was finally pulled out. The speed
sensor cable connector had to be unplugged. It was the moment to do it
because it was easily accessible. Note, that the connector retaining clip
must be removed to unplug the connector. Before the 4 hubs assembly bolts were
removed, we paid attention on how the speed sensor connector and the backing
plate were installed. We used a ratchet with a 14 millimeter socket to do the job.
If it's too hard to unscrew, an extension tube can be used to ease the job.
If one or more bolts are frozen, the shoes should be removed to get access to
eat the hub assembly flange around the bolts. As you can see when the last bolt was
removed, the guide plate was getting loose. The rust was holding all the parts
together and the backing plate was stuck on the rear axle mounting surface. We had
to use the hammer to release the backing plate. Even with penetrating oil and
strong hammering, we were not able to separate the hub assembly from the
backing plate. We decided to go for Plan B. We also hit quite hard on the
four bolts that we installed behind the hub assembly. Again, nothing moved and we
were not successful. It was time to go for Plan C. We removed the parking brake
components to make some room to beat on the hub. Anyway, they had to be removed
because they were too rusted. Since the parking brake job was not planned
and we were short on time, the parking brake shoes removal and the
installation were not filmed. Anyway, I drew some illustrations and I filmed extra
generic clips to explain the following steps. To have a good grip on the rusted
retaining parts, we used my modified pliers. With my custom-made pliers, it was
very easy to unhook the upper retaining springs and the lower retaining spring.
We paid attention on how the adjuster assembly was positioned and assembled,
so we could reinstall it properly. Because regular pliers were too big to fit in
the space, we use my custom pliers to remove the spring cups. The spring pin
must be held from behind while the cup is pushed and rotated to get unlocked.
Remember the position of the brake strut assembly before the shoes are removed.
When all the holding components are (un-installed/removed) the parking brake shoes can
be removed. The other step is to detach the parking brake cable from the brake
shoe lever. The upper brake shoe guide plate was removed. With the parking brake
shoes removed, there's a lot of space to hit harder. The plan was good and the hub
assembly is finally freed from the backing plate. Because the stores were
closing soon, it was time to go and get the parts that were ordered by phone.
At the first store, where my brother bought his hub assembly, he compared the new one
with the old one to make sure it was the same model. At the second store, he also
took the time to compare the brake shoes. Back home, most of the rusted parts were
brushed sanded and reinstalled with the new shoes.
When the parking brake cable was attached and the parking brake shoes
were installed on the backing plate, it was time to install the hub assembly.
The round bearing section of the hub assembly was inserted in the backing plate hole.
The wheel speed sensor connector was facing the harness plug side. Note, that
the forward lower bolt was the first one to be installed to hold the assemblies
together. Those bolts were torqued at 50 foot pounds. After the torquing, it was
time to reconnect the wheel speed sensor. The parking brake shoe adjuster was
adjusted properly to fit with the rotor. Once the rotor was in position, the two
retaining screws were installed and torqued at four foot-pounds. To mount the
caliper bracket, note that we used the longer bolt for the upper attachment.
The two bolts were torqued at 50 foot-pounds. After that, the old brake pads were
reinstalled on the caliper bracket. The piston was compressed and it was easy to
insert the floating caliper in place. The 2 guide bolts were installed and
torqued at 20 foot-pounds. The wheel was installed and it was time for the road test.
This hub assembly replacement was an emergency and the complete brake job
was done later during the week.
I hope you liked this presentation, and that you are more prepared, should you
have to deal with rusted parts and cold conditions
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