Thứ Năm, 29 tháng 3, 2018

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Welcome back to Sipa's garage.

This time we are going to improve the cooling for my turbo e30.

Next task we have is to take apart the front of the car.

There are couple of reasons why I'm doing that.

First of all, I have this loose hose hanging here.

Which is for the windshield washer. The reservoir is not anymore in the engine compartment but it's in the trunk.

The hose came from there under the wheel arch.

And because I don't have proper connecting piece here, the hose came loose.

And it went under the tire and ripped whole thing out from somewhere here.

So I need to find the hose to fix it or replace the whole thing.

Also if you can see. Well I can but probably not for camera.

But I have spal electric fan there.

And that is controlled by temperature switch on the radiator.

That might be 88/92 degrees Celsius one.

Double speed switch and I have relays under the dash.

But there was couple of problems in that.

First of all the switch temps are too high and fan gets turned on too late.

And shuts down it too early.

So the fan doesn't work when it needs. Ok I could only replace the switch.

But that fan is also bit too weak and still very noisy.

So the fix all that I have this thing here.

This is the e39 electric fan for the air conditioning.

Probably other BMW models also have this.

This has much more powerful fan.

And has this fan shroud built in. In the spal one I don't have anything. It just sits on the radiator.

Which is not good. I could make one for that but this already has the shroud.

And this is quite fancy one. As you can see this mounts to the front and has these openings around the fan also.

And when the fan turns on, these flaps close and this pushes air to the whole radiator.

So this is quite good fan shroud.

Then there is also one more reason I chose this. Well this is wrong one because I accidentally ordered this.

This is just regular two or three speed fan with the resistors.

But I have newer model coming which has integrated PWM module.

That has +12 and ground wires as usual, but also third PWM wire that ECU can use for stepless control of the fan speed.

So I'm going to change that temp switch in the radiator to temp sensor.

So the new MS3 megasquirt can see the radiator temperature.

And based on that temp and car speed, it can control this fan so that the radiator temps wont get too high.

Which should make the engine temps stable as well.

That should also make this rotate slower speeds before the temps get too high. And that means I don't have to listen this humming full speed.

If I would have the mechanical fan there, this wouldn't be needed. But I don't have room for that.

But to get this on, I need to take apart the front of the car.

So that means that the grill needs to come of. Also this bumper and the whole front piece.

And that's that.

Not much to take off in these old cars.

So lets get to work.

This bumper comes of just by loosening the two bolts down here.

Or just only the facelift plastic bumper does.

Two bolts here.

Lets loosen those.

And the bumper will just slide off. After I disconnect the blinker lights.

Now you start to see that this may not be as stock as it first looks like.

I have the cooler here.

And I have this front piece which is meant for air conditioned cars.

So it has these two openings.

And normally there would be metal here, but I have made big hole to fit this cooler here.

But this may be bit bigger job than I did remember, because I also need to spread out the wheel arches.

Well I have take off what I need. But now these grills here.

I just need to lift these clips.

So this is really simple to remove.

And these ones around the lights.

There is three clips here. Or should be.

You never know how many of those have been lost during the years.

So three clips.

And these two are Philips head screws if I remember correctly.

??

What

Some eagle eyed viewer may have already noticed that I have US model grills in this.

As you can see there is gap above the light.

In euro models this is just straight fin here.

I did order new ones and only when I got these I noticed that I had the wrong ones.

But you wont see these here in Europe so I left these in the car. To have bit different look.

I will put the clips here so I will not lose these.

Ok and wiring up this new fan will be easy.

Because I have.. Oh this isn't even properly mounted anymore.

The mounts from biltema have broke.

Well in any case.

Connecting all will be easy.

For the temp switch I have couple of wires. In addition to ground wire.

Then I have ground and +12v from relay to the fan.

So i don't need to do changes here.

Well ok I have to do changes. But I don't need to run any new wires.

I will just run the ground and +12v to the new fan.

Second temp switch wire to temp sensor. There is already ground for that.

And the third temp switch wire will be for the PWM control.

So I don't need to run any new wires.

Because the old ones are enough.

I will just shorten that third wire to go to the fan.

And to get the front piece off, I need to open lot of screws.

The bumper mount is screwed in inside here.

So that needs to go.

And to do that, I need to remove this plastic.

I should also have plastic cover here.

I don't remember was that broken, or didn't fit or what. So I would need to put something there.

But when it's missing this is fewer screws to take off.

And the we get access to the bumper mount.

And don't be disappointed if your e30 doesn't look clean as this.

I have spend many hours restoring this car. It didn't look nothing like this when I bought the car.

So it's not like all the e30 look like this.

That came loose also. Well it's ok.

Then this bumper mount.

One downside doing this, Is that I may need to adjust some panel gaps again.

Hopefully that will be easy.

But I need to fix the windshield washer any way to get this pass the MOT inspection.

That is off.

This is the last.

These panels should now come apart.

yes they do.

Then I only need to. Wait...

What else is there.

Oh I had screws here also.

There is few years since i did restore this.

So I don't remember every bolt and screw.

Then here at the corners are torx screws.

I don't remember if originally.

If there was torx screw on the top and bottom side. But I did put both.

Because this kind of screw is pretty tall. And torx one is lower.

So it won't rub against other part.

But yeah. I don't remember which side it had or was it both.

Well now we are starting to get where I need to do the changes.

So now I need to remove this cooler.

This doesn't sound like in Mighty Car Mods.

Must be broken.

And now we are talking.

Half of the biltema mounts have broken.

So only two to remove from here.

Quality parts.

The radiator I have is stock one from e36 328

Nothing special. Has enough cooling power.

No need to change that.

This fan may had been enough with better control but meh.

And here is the spal fan and the e39 fan assembly side by side.

The blades are quite a bit bigger in e39 one.

And the the motor is much bigger.

In the e39 fan that must be twice the size of the spal one.

There is plenty of are in that fun but the motor is bit weak for that.

Should be one with more grunt.

This one has power to move lot of air.

But lets see if that will fit or do I need to use the fan only.

Horizontally it fits.

Vertically.

Maybe yes.

Looks bad but if you look at this.

I need to cut here like this.

And from other side.

little bit from there. I maybe can leave the flap here also.

Then this should fit.

No problems in that.

This fits surprisingly well.

But then how deep this is. I think this will sit just millimeters from the cooler.

The cooler can't go forward but the radiator should fit few cm towards the engine.

I may need to move the radiator back something like half an cm.

Shouldn't cause problem.

And I will get more room like that.

I can leave the upper grid here, but the lower one I need to remove.

To get more room for the cooler.

So looks plausible.

But I won't touch this because it's wrong part. I probably leave this as my spare part.

I will modify the right one when I get it.

To control the new fan i need to get the radiator temp.

I already have temperature switch here as I said before.

But that's a switch. I need temp sensor.

In ms3 you can add as many temp sensors you want to the 0-5v analog inputs.

But there is a catch.

You can only have two non-linear temp sensor calibrations there.

And those are already in use for coolant and intake air temp.

So if you wan't to add more sensors, you have to use same type.

So because we are trying to sense coolant temps, I will use the coolant one of the calibrated sensors.

And here I have the coolant temp sensor for m52.

unfortunately this has m10 thread in it.

But this may look funny, and that's because I did put helicoil to it from m10 thread repair set.

And that will turn this to m12 thread which is same as the radiator has.

Or not exactly to m12 but close enough that I can screw this in.

Directly to the radiator.

Then I also have connector for this taken from some scrap wiring harness.

This has wires for instrument cluster and for the engine management.

So I will use the ecu wires from this.

And here is the connector for the temp switch.

Here is ground.

And then wires for two different speeds.

The ground will left as it is and wired to this sensor.

The slower speed wire will go from this sensor to megasquirt.

And the third one will go to the PWM control unit and get the signal from megasquirt.

So these two that go to the relay, will be transferred to megasquirt.

So no extra wiring to get this working.

Ok. One thing I need to do is to control the relay for the fan bit differently.

That will be controlled so that the relay sends power to the fan when the ignition is on.

So that will be next.

This can go back to the radiator end.

And to change the switch to the sensor, I will drain the coolant from the radiator.

And as you can see, draining the coolant can be done without getting coolant everywhere.

There is place for drain hose. If you can see it.

I don't need the hose, because I can drain directly to the pan.

But just that you know.

And there is the temp switch.

Lets take that off.

There shouldn't be any coolant coming off here.

Or maybe there is.

Little bit.

It wasn't empty enough.

Should this have seal.

Well there wasn't any seal there so I now used viton o-ring

Should be enough.

That's there.

Plug the connector in.

And that is now ready.

I only need to change the wiring inside the car.

unfortunately I didn't film installing the fan to the radiator.

I had measuring error and that e39 fan was half cm thicker than I measured previously.

And when you have zero extra room, the half cm is quite a much.

So I have wrestled two days to fit this in.

To get this installed, I already destroyed one fan assembly.

I have the original one here now to get the install much better.

it's directly mounted to the radiator

Just by using zip ties.

Should be fine.

And the radiator is pushed back by modifying the original rummer mounts.

To get enough room for the fan assembly.

There wasn't much room behind the cooler.

The cooler itself if few mm from the front piece so, there wasn't room to move it.

But now finally it sits there and everything fits in their place.

If you noticed this weird block in front of the fan assembly.

It's the PWM control module for the fan.

So the fan isn't now on/off or few speeds but it has now stepless speed control.

So as I said I hope that I can control that using the megasquirt.

To recap. There is ground and +12v going to the fan from relay. The relay now goes on when the ignition is on. Previously it was controlled by temp switch.

And this extra wires goes to the PWM control wire and needs to be connected to megasquirt.

Hopefully I can control the fan.

If not.. Well I have to take all this apart again.

Hopefully that will work.

But yeah. i need to assemble front of the car next.

And I didn't have time to assemble that. But I had to see if the fan will work.

Technology said Russian when saw hinge.

It looks like the WPM control for the fan works as it should.

It fits and seems like there is lot more air moving that with the spal fan.

Which was the goal.

So I think that's end of this video. Lets continue next time.

Then I have to put back the front of the car and probably finish the fuel system mods.

So yeah.

For more infomation >> BMW e30 m52 turbo winter maintenance. S02E02 e39 fan installation - Duration: 26:10.

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BMW M5 (1992) Quick Drive - Duration: 3:44.

thank God I have some euros on me I ended up with a toll here alright let's

wrap this baby up

ma'am

this thing is porous hey Lawrence Ulrich here with The Drive and we're out here

driving the new 2018 BMW m5 with 600 horsepower but we're also doing a little

time capsule bat blast from the past here this is a 1992 m5 this is a

generation that first came out in 1988 and just look at it that in this collar

this is the part that's filmy this is called a tone of violet yeah I mean it's

just just gorgeous and you know it just has all that all the character that dude

that we remember from from the great days of them and we're gonna go take a

spin no you forget the cars from 25 years ago cuz still handling it says

nowhere near as much grip as a modern car the tires are much skinnier much

older technology but the car just has this sense real light chassis lightness

I'll bet this car weighs at least at least 800 pounds if not a thousand

pounds less than the modern m5 rev it up

very long years hundred miles an hour man it just pulls and forth look I never

have to ship just go and go and go and still for tear still port here and 130

miles an hour this thing just doesn't quit this 6-cylinder engine is just a

sweetie pre turbocharging creed and everything but crate motor 340

horsepower when this car came out in 1988 it had about 315 and by this time

1992 and at 340 horsepower from a high-revving

inline 6 at revs to 7000 rpm you know it doesn't sound a lot in this era but back

in the day this was a real rocket ship zero to 60 in about 6.6 6.7 seconds a

top speed of 155 miles an hour this was the fastest production German sedan of

its time they only sold barely 3,000 at this car all around the world in this

year got this skinny steering wheel a little stubby five-speed shifter would

it's got a power telescoping wheel but with no tilt I've got the window

switches on the console you can just see everything out of this car look at this

belt lining it down around by my elbows just so much glass area in this color

Daytona violet just beautiful really rare color for this car

this thing feels right of all the steering just gotten so much connection

a little bit of play on Center but man you can just feel every little little

nugget coming through the tires

whoo that's about the tire limit there this car is just so purely analog just a

pair of simple gauges attack a speedometer hydraulic steering a

five-speed shifter and that's about it but it's got some luxury of it's a it's

got power seats and even a decent audio system but none of the creature comforts

associated with today's cars you know the new m5 that we're driving it may

have 600 horsepower it may have all-wheel-drive but it's not

petite and it's not purple or Daytona violet like this 1992 model just a blast

you

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